Auto Body Solder?

[Vly]

One of the great things about casting boolits is that sooner or later someone comes to you with "lead" . My latest is a quantity of "autobody solder". This stuff must predate "Bondo" and similiar compounds. Anybody know what the composition of this stuff might be? It sounds "dull" like lead when dropped on a concrete floor. Any tin in this stuff? Anybody remember this stuff?

http://www.fototime.com/6A0D6E95EFC083A/standard.jpg

[ron brooks]

It should be 30% Tin and 70% Lead. Sounds like a great "find".

Here is a link to a write up on it:

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english/youcan/html/res/res20041001ld.html

Ron

[scrapcan]

I have an uncle that did lots of shaved and leaded cars back in the day. Actually got to help on a few in the mid to late 70's ( I was just a youngster but remember it well). One case I remember well was jaguar xke coupe they rebuilt from the ground up. whoops getting off topic.

The bar I have says 40-60 and is Anchor Brand. Ithas the compostition certified by stamp on the back. You might be able to find old autobody books at the library that would have better designation. Or better yet go to the oldest auto parts/paint shop in your area and ask. they may even show you pictures or better yet show you how they did it. It is pretty impressive and makes for great lines and blending.

[Vly]

ron_brooks - Thanks for that link! That was interesting info. I guess I'm in the "Bondo" generation!

[mag_01]

-Had a 41 Ford coupe all chrome removed and seems where done with that body solder----You have a good find there --definetly a good source for tin.---Mag

[Dye]

Vly
Yes I remember.I still have my tools for it, tourch tip, wood paddles ,files and
and even have the old chevy hubcap to put used motor oil in for the paddles
Be carefull Dye

[jar-wv]

I came across a box of lead like that. Nephew got it at vo-tech school where he was taking auto body repair. Insructor told him it had been there longer than he had and it had never been used. It came in a box but didn't have any indication of what it was made of. The lead I got was "I'm guessing" nearly pure. It seemed to be really soft and easy to scratch with thumbnail and I'm going to see how it works for black powder bullets and roundballs.

jar

[floodgate]

This was researched and written up several years ago, probably on "Shooters". Auto body solder runs 30 - 40% tin, the rest lead, and was picked - like plumber's wiping solder - to have a long "mush" range, a range in temperature from 500 - 550 *F down to around 400*F over which it can be "worked" like putty, and below which it sets up solid. It will be about the same hardness as 10:90 tin:lead, the maximum you can achieve with alloys of these two metals. For a good writeup on the subject see Dennis Marshall's article, pp. 43 - 52, in the 3rd Edition Lyman "Cast Bullet Handbook", still avilable from Lyman. (He also discusses the effects of antimony, zinc, copper, etc. At the very least, you've got a good source - with known composition - of tin for making up alloys.

floodgate

[jar-wv]

floodgate. Do you think this can be used as roundball fodder, or does the tin content make it too hard? The stuff I have actually seems have consistancy like old sewer pipe or roof flashing. Or perhaps I should use it as a source for tin.

jar

[ron brooks]

I think it would be a waste of good tin to use it for roundball, if nothing else trade it for pure lead, you would get a lot more roundballs that way.

Ron

[Hunter]

My father used lead many years before body plastic came about. We were talking about leading cars today and he mentioned the old hub caps with used oil. I will ask him about the contents of the bodyman's lead.

[Bullshop Junior]

Someone brought me some small trianguler shapped bars about 10" to 12" long responding to my lead wanted adds. They said it was auto body solder.
It is very hard and brittle with very large grain that looks galvenized. They will break if dropped. I was leary but a small peace found its way to the smelting pot running at 600f. It would not melt. I think its zink and have no idea what it was for but is now trash. Could have been pure antimony but the grain seemed too large. Didnt want to take it to the junk yard as they will just throw it in with lead. Aint no real junk men no more.
BIC/BS

[floodgate]

jar-wv:

I have never used it myself, but from the tin content it should be moderately hard. Some shooters have been using wheel weights for RB's , but I've always stuck with "pure" lead. DEFINITELY NOT for C&B revolvers! As Ron points out, it is much more valuable as a source of tin, for making up your own mixes, or for trading off; you should be able to swap one pound for at least 5 lbs. of lead or wheel weights.

floodgate