Can I do this ? Will it work ?

[gray wolf]

Can I use my 40 S&W FCD as a bulge buster to get rid of Guppy brass
on 40 cases. I have a stem from a push through sizer that I can use.
If I take the guts out of the die will the carbide ring restore the cases if they are lubed and pushed through it.

[Catshooter]

Why not try it and see for yourself?

Then you can post and tell us how well or not it worked.


Cat

[gray wolf]

I did try it, it was a little hard pushing them through. Just wasn't sure if it was the best way to handle it, or if there was more to the official, spend more money bulge buster die.

[MtGun44]

I think that they have a crimp ridge in the front of the die, don't they? If so, the
die will squeeze the mouth (or a bunch more, depending on how deep you need to
push in the case) WAY down too small.

I never have had one of the pistol FCDs but love the rifle FCDs, so may be wrong about
how they work.

Bill

[Heavy lead]

I think that they have a crimp ridge in the front of the die, don't they? If so, the
die will squeeze the mouth (or a bunch more, depending on how deep you need to
push in the case) WAY down too small.

I never have had one of the pistol FCDs but love the rifle FCDs, so may be wrong about
how they work.

Bill
Nope, they will work in this fashion, the FCD's I have are cylindrical above the lower carbide ring and have a sliding crimp collet that simply stops where the adjustment screw cap is set, if this and the collet is removed the die body is much bigger in diameter than the case size.
Much different than the rifle version.

[gray wolf]

If I take the guts out of the die will the carbide ring restore the cases
The crimping part of the die can be removed, I am talking about just running the case through the carbide ring.

[RobS]

If you have a stem from a push through sizer that is smaller in diameter than the 40 S&W FCD die then the short answer is yes,what you have there will work just fine. Although you won't have the extenion piece to help move the brass from the mid part of the die and out the top as the factory offering but I woundn't think that would be a big deal if the brass doesn't tip etc and catch on the inside threads of the die.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxF-nfkKR0o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCDN2PRdn4A&NR=1

[Echo]

Will the 'Guppy' cases chamber? Reliably? If so, where's the drama?

[gray wolf]

Will the 'Guppy' cases chamber? Reliably? If so, where's the drama?

Very simple,-- the DRAMA is--->>> The expanded part of the brass at the end caused by an unsupported chamber (guppy brass ) causes a week spot near the case head.
This may, and can, and has, caused case head separation and or blown cases just past the case head if the case is loaded a few times. Light loads De-creases the chances of this happening. So why take a chance ? this seems to be mostly from Glock shot brass.
It does not happen with brass from Julie's Beretta 96 but is found on many range pick up brass. The truth is I have no drama about this, I just like to have all the safety I can on my side. I appreciate all the answers.

[Bulletlube]

I push my cases thru base first. Don't know if it makes any difference or not.

[gasboffer]

I'm at a loss trying to figure out why one would use "guppy" brass. Being resized that much is surely going to work harden the brass. Only way I can see that it would be practical is to anneal the brass often. I can't see any shortage of .40 brass, my range is covered with it.

[Iron Mike Golf]

The Bulge Buster kit uses the FCD to do the sizing. The kit gives you a rod to push the rounds all the way through the FCD and a fitting to hold a brass catching cup to the top of the FCD.

[geargnasher]

I'm at a loss trying to figure out why one would use "guppy" brass. Being resized that much is surely going to work harden the brass. Only way I can see that it would be practical is to anneal the brass often. I can't see any shortage of .40 brass, my range is covered with it.

.40 brass is very hard, all the way through. It has to be to take the pressure of the round. I do not believe it is possible to anneal it safely. "Deglocking" brass is a legit way of reloading it IMHO.

GW, I don't have a base-sizing die either, but I did what you did once, except I used case sizing lube and the gutted FCD just to see what would happen. It worked pretty well for the gun I was using. I've since wiped the ring out because the FCD crimps so much better than the seater die does, and since I'm not in love with the caliber the 2k+ 1f brass I got from a local LE training shoot should last quite a while in my M&P.

Gear

[RobS]

.40 brass is very hard, all the way through. It has to be to take the pressure of the round. I do not believe it is possible to anneal it safely. "Deglocking" brass is a legit way of reloading it IMHO.

GW, I don't have a base-sizing die either, but I did what you did once, except I used case sizing lube and the gutted FCD just to see what would happen. It worked pretty well for the gun I was using. I've since wiped the ring out because the FCD crimps so much better than the seater die does.Gear

Gear,
believe it or not but honing/lapping a very little bit of the crimp section on the seater die giving it a smoother finish makes the die crimp really well. I used a split rod wrapped with dry/wet 320 grit sand paper and turned it by hand for a while and test it, then honed some more and tested it a second time..............done in about 5 minutes and I have actually replaced the modified (no carbide ring) FCD with this one in my crimping stage.

[geargnasher]

Hmmm. I'll have to try that. I load .40 on my three-station progressive, so seat/crimp have to happen with the same die, or I do all the final crimping on a single stage. The crimp ledge on my Lee .40 seater die sucks bigtime, not only is it not "finished", but it's not small enough to do much good. All I need it to do is remove the bellmouth, but at most it will leave about .002" oversized mouth diameter, and if I screw it down any tighter it "deadheads" the press and I get longer OAL, not to mention stress on the shellplate carrier.

320, 400, and 600 emery paper and valve grinding compound are staples on my reloading bench.

Gear

[HangFireW8]

Very simple,-- the DRAMA is--->>> The expanded part of the brass at the end caused by an unsupported chamber (guppy brass ) causes a week spot near the case head.
This may, and can, and has, caused case head separation and or blown cases just past the case head if the case is loaded a few times. Light loads De-creases the chances of this happening. So why take a chance ?

What gasboper said.

Ironing out the base bulge does not strengthen the brass, is work-hardens it.

Ironing out the bulge is only necessary if you are having feed or chambering problems. If you are looking for strength in Glock + 40S&W, use new cases only.

If you are sticking to light loads, it may not matter whether you smooth out the bulge or not.