What are some of the best methods for removing lead

[jtwodogs]

What are some of the best methods for removing lead from my 1911 barrel.
Thanks

[Beerd]

scrub with a little Chore Boy copper wool wrapped around an old bore brush.

[btroj]

Best method is to not put it there in the first place. That being said, use the chore boy scrubber as previously stated.

[helice]

I bought a couple of the "Copper" scrubbers I think it was from Home Depot - too long ago to remember. I threw them into a box and when I went to retrieve oone it was stuck to a magnet Since then I have been checking the copper scrubbers before I run them down the barrel of anything I appreciate. I never would have thought to test them or to test them this way. It was just a fluke. I threw it in the right box.

[Cadillo]

Can't find Chore Boy around here, but the Walgreens stores have the O Cedar brand, which is all copper(no magnetic reaction) and works fine. I first soak the barrel for a while with CLP, patch out, and then attack it with a bore brush tightly wrapped with a strand from the unraveled pad. After a really long shooting session of 200 or more rounds, two applications will sometimes be necessary, but it seems that the CLP somehow seasons the bore, as the longer that I use this process, the easier each cleaning session becomes.

I have tried ALL the commercially available lead removal products, and nothing even comes close to CLP and a brush wrapped in the copper strands.

[RobS]

Bronze wool will work as well and places like ACE or painting stores may have it.

As always make sure it isn't coated by taking a magnet to it.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1276269

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint-paint-tools-sanding-tools-accessories-refinishing-pads-steel-wool/homax-products-coarse-bronze-wool-pads-3-pack-142555.html

[olafhardt]

I have wondered about aluminum screen which can be cut into patches with sissors. You can get at the hardware store. They also have steel and fiberglass, I would avoid them.

[Atakawow]

I use Lewis Lead Removal Kit. Works okay, not worth the $30.00 price tag though.

[TornMonkey]

I have heard some great things about Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner (http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html). Haven't had occasion to try it yet, but it's on the "buy and try" list.

[Bret4207]

Plain old 4/0 steel wool on a worn bore brush works fine and will not harm your barrel.

[Bass Ackward]

Are you sure that it has to come out?

Lead will fill low spots to create seal. Think of it as .... soft barrel repair. Only if you have that high built up stuff that affects the next passing slug do you need to remove it. And you can use some gas check slugs to do that.

They will scrape down and collect the high stuff and leave you that "perfect" cast bore. Then as the gun breaks in and wears off the high spots or you fire lap, it will slowly shoot out the lead and not lead any more.

So in some cases, to do nothing is the best recommendation.

[bootsnthejeep]

I stand by my previous strong recommendations of Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner. Stuff is great.

[Dframe]

I use Lewis Lead Removal Kit. Works okay, not worth the $30.00 price tag though.

The lewis is a tad expensive but nothing will remove lead faster or better. I've ben using mine for many years now so the cost sort becomes less important.

[HammerMTB]

The Lewis is a tad expensive but nothing will remove lead faster or better. I've been using mine for many years now so the cost sort becomes less important.

My sentiments exactly

[Cadillo]

I have wondered about aluminum screen which can be cut into patches with sissors. You can get at the hardware store. They also have steel and fiberglass, I would avoid them.

I bought some and tried it. It is not nearly as good as the copper pads. Don't waste your time. I know from experience.

[Wally]

I have wondered about aluminum screen which can be cut into patches with sissors. You can get at the hardware store. They also have steel and fiberglass, I would avoid them.

I've used aluminum patches for years--works better than anything else but an Outers Foul Out. The Lewis Lead remover is good but you have to remove the tip with each pass and then put it back on the rod. The aluminum patch is a push through from the muzzle. You must use a brass jag tip and a cloth patch--it must be tight to work. IMHO the Chore Boy doesn't clean out leading as well or is as fast. The strands break apart quickly with use. Aluminum patches do as well, but they are easy to make/change...and a lot cheaper.

[gray wolf]

Now that the OP has many remedy's for removing lead ---
it may be a good idea to fix the problem, the 45 ACP is not a hard pistol to load for.
Get to the problem instead of standing knee deep in band-aids.
No Mal-intent just a thought.

[Le Loup Solitaire]

Once recommended by Phil Sharpe; cork securely one end of your bore and pour in mercury. Let it sit for a while....mercury amalgamates the lead....all of it. Mercury is not cheap and it isn't good for you or the environment. Also if you spill it you will be chasing it around the house for a long time. When you pour it out of the barrel, you will find all the removed lead floating on the top...skim it off to get rid of it. Save the mercury for the next time. LLS

[btroj]

I would not suggest the mercury. It works quite well but is way too toxic. Ain't no way I am going near that method.

[zomby woof]

scrub with a little chore boy copper wool wrapped around an old bore brush.

this






.

[Freischütz]

I use a 50/50 mixture hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. I've had excellent results by leaving it in the barrel for 5 min max. I've spilled some on bluing but wiped it off immediately and haven’t damaged any bluing yet.

[Cadillo]

I use a 50/50 mixture hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. I've had excellent results by leaving it in the barrel for 5 min max. I've spilled some on bluing but wiped it off immediately and haven’t damaged any bluing yet.

This is akin to dancing on a minefield. I answered a phone call and left it in my P-220 barrel for 7.5 minutes. Pitted the barrel. $159.00 plus shipping.

Breakfree CLP soak, then a good brushing with a brush properly wrapped with either a strand of Chore Boy or O Cedar copper pad.

No ruined barrel!!!!!!!

[soldierbilly1]

Check the online Brownell's catalog. they sell these very stiff bronze or copper bristle brushes. they are extremely stiff and inexpensive.
they work very well, and are easier to use than the Chore boy, if you can find them!
I find they work better than anything else I've tried.
billy boy

[milprileb]

Cadillo is on the mark. 50 50 does not need to be anywhere near your weapons for any reason.

Just know: they use it to "AGE" metal so it looks antique.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Plain old 4/0 steel wool on a worn bore brush works fine and will not harm your barrel.

I use 4/0 steel wool, my technique is a little different.

Using a brass jag and a cloth patch, I put the thinnest
layer of steel wool on it...maybe 20 or 30 strands.
stroke 2 or 3 times, then check bore with a plain dry patch.
repeat if necessary.
Jon

[MtGun44]

Foul Out or Lewis.

I'm on the "what in the world did you do to manage to lead the .45 ACP??!!" group.

Good lube (NRA 50-50 or similar), good design (H&G 68 or similar) and at least .452 diam with even soft alloy should be fine with zippo leading.

Bill

[Char-Gar]

Best method I ever used was to buy some empty capsules at the pharmacy and fill them with mercury. Drop one in the case with a 1.5 grain charge of Bullseye, top it with a a bullet and fire the round. Wait a few minutes and the lead will brush out easy. This method would probably put the EPA into stroke mode today and have all sorts of law enforcement folks up your backside. But "back in the day" it worked.

Heck, I knew a teenage boy who used to have sex with a mayonnaise jar filled with mercury. I have often wondered what his kids look like.

Oh well, that aside, I just wrap some 0000 steel wood around a worn bore brush and squirt some good solvent on it and go to work. It doesn't take long and 0000 steel wool will do no harm to your barrel.

Years ago, I used to remove the barrel from my 1911 and drop it in a pan of soapy water and boil it on the stove for 5 minutes or so. I would then remove the barrel with tongs and run hot tap water through it for a couple of second. Blow through it and it was dry in an instant. As soon as it was cool enough to handle, all powder, lead and whatever brushed out in just a pass or two if a good bore brush. An oily patch would follow and I was good to go.

[rogn]

Ive had good luck with Kroil in SS barrels. Dont know about blue steel. I just run a good wet patch thru , wait ten minutes and follow with tight fitting cotton patches. It justfalls offf the bore and comes out on the patch. Once or twice Ive had to repeat it.

[zomby woof]

scrub with a little Chore Boy copper wool wrapped around an old bore brush.

This takes about 30 seconds to remove lead out of a barrel. I have the brushes laying around with the chore-boy wrapped around them. Just pick up the brush, a few strokes later, no lead. It can't get any easier.

[waksupi]

Easiest way to deal with it, is to avoid it in the first place. I've only owned one gun that leaded badly, and got rid of it, as at that time I didn't know enough to cure it.

[MikeS]

I would not suggest the mercury. It works quite well but is way too toxic. Ain't no way I am going near that method.


I'm pretty sure you can't even get mercury anymore. I have a friend that has a couple of pounds of it, and he's had it for years (he used to be in the instrument instrument repair business), but he won't take it out of the bottle it's in because of how toxic it is!

[cajun shooter]

I have no problem with leading in any of my guns while shooting Black powder with the correct sized bullets. In the past while shooting smokeless if I had any leading I would remove it with giving the barrel a good soaking of Kroil and then run a good bronze brush several times. Never had to repeat the process.

[canyon-ghost]

Just a thought I'd need to mention, mainly for the benefit of the younger guys. If you're shooting lead, DO NOT keep using a copper solvent. Don't clean with Hoppes #9 or other, etc. Use mineral spirits (oil based paint thinner) and acetone for carnuba lubes.

Just clarifyin'
Ron

[zomby woof]

Just a thought I'd need to mention, mainly for the benefit of the younger guys. If you're shooting lead, DO NOT keep using a copper solvent. Don't clean with Hoppes #9 or other, etc. Use mineral spirits (oil based paint thinner) and acetone for carnuba lubes.

Just clarifyin'
Ron

Why? Other than the obvious, no copper. #9 is very good for carbon fouling, why not use it.

[canyon-ghost]

No copper, and cast bullet lubes are more impervious to it. It works very slow compared to mineral spirits.