Sizing More Than .002 Reduces Accuracy?

[shotstring]

Sorry if this has been answered at length previously, but I wasn't able to fine anything after looking through a lot of posts.

I have heard that any sizing at all can slightly reduce accuracy and that trying to size more than .002 can make a noticeable difference, particularly in bullseye and target guns where very small issues become more important. Old wives tale? Any truth to it at all?

This question seems doubly important now that many of us are ordering lots of 45 caliber molds in Group Buys and have both 45 long colt guns as well as 45 acp guns. Obviously, if there is absolutely no penalty for doing so, it would always make more sense to order .454 rather than .452 for the simple reason that it would expand the capabilities of an expensive purchase. But I can't believe it is a free ride. There must be some negatives.

I have a Les Baer target gun that almost demands .451 rather than anything else, so I am loathe to buy a .454 mold and have to size down three hundredths and still expect it to group 3/4" at 50 yards (which it will do from a Ransom Rest). But I also have some very nice Colt SAA and a few rifles that I would love to shoot cast lead hollowpoints in on occasion. Thus my dilemma. Hopefully with all the experience here, you folks can shed some serious light on this issue.

[geargnasher]

The problem with sizing any significant amount is that often the sizer itself will not move metal evenly and the driving bands can become eccentric to the rotating center of mass, creating an unbalanced boolit in flight.

Another thing I've heard is that lead alloys "work soften" and that overly-worked driving bands can be too soft. I have tried to verify this with hardness tests and cannot find that it matters, although some may prove me wrong with this.

But with the guns and range you mentioned, I seriously doubt it will matter much as long as you make the boolits fit. Your Les Baer might be a target gun, but the .45 Colt certainly is not unless you do some mojo to get the chambers to shrink or modify other brass to take up the space. .003" ain't much, I'm currently sizing a .458" to .4535" in two stages (last one is a push-through to assist concentricity) and it shoots better than seven other boolit designs all cast at .4530"-.4535".

One more thing, if you already have a mould for the 1911, then why would you limit yourself to a possible compromise dual-purpose mould? One thing I've found difficult to do is find a boolit that a typical SAA and 1911 will both like. One is built for a 230-grain boolit, the other for a 255-grain boolit. Big difference between a 1911 throat and a revolver's cylinder throats. Often both platforms have fixed elevation sights, so you have to get wild with the powder selection between the two to get them to shoot to POA. The 1911 likes a certain weight, powder charge, and burn rate to shoot POA and cycle the works correctly. The SAA needs a certain weight to shoot to POA, or a powder burn rate at the ragged edge of useful or safe with a light boolit. Just something to think about, if you want the best for each gun you will likely need a "best" mould for each.

Gear

[Bret4207]

I'm one of the believers that any sizing CAN harm a boolit. That's one of those "IF" statements. IF you aren't observant and careful and IF things aren't lined up right and IF your sizer is not nicely finished and smooth and IF a million other little things. OTH, IF you get the alignment right, are careful and observant and use a good die that is the right size for your gun and load then I believe boolits can be successfully sized at least .003 and there are people here sizing more than .010 IIRC with very good results.

[Ben]

There are still a lot of " Old Wive's Tales " out there.

[fredj338]

IMO, not that small amount. I have gone 0.007" doing 300gr/459 to 452 for shooting in my 45colt back before 300gr+ bullet were available, shot fine. It will depnd a lot on the design of the bullet though. A TL design may not have any lube grooves left after sizing too far.

[PAT303]

As a test I sized some Lyman 324366's from .325 down to .317 and shot them in my Mk111 Lee Enfield over 18grns of 2400 and at 50mtrs it put 10 of them inside the 10 ring without a problem. Pat

[cbrick]

I'm of the school of thought that believes that's an old wives tales that simply won't go away. It's from the days many years ago before size dies were tapered and instead actually had a step inside that shaved lead from one side of the bullet and any sizing was paramount to destroying it.

Todays dies however can still size a bullet off center though not nearly to the extent the old (original style) size dies did.

I did a test several years ago comparing sized bullet concentricity between an in & out base first sizer (SAECO) and a push through nose first sizer (Star). I took several 7mm bullets sized both ways to a friends machine shop and looked at them with a comparator. The difference was really eye opening, you could easily stand back and pick out the in & out sized bullet they were so far off center judging by the amount of front driving band on one side of the bullet vs much less on the other side. The center of mass of the bullet was well off the from the center of mass of bullet diameter. The push through sized bullets did show a bit of off center sizing but not even close to what the in & out sized bullets showed.

I haven't tried the LEE push through dies simply because I have so many Star dies but I strongly suspect the push through LEE (with a flat punch on the bullet base) would give the same results (except lubing) as the Star push through.

So yes, bullets can and should be sized for a correct fit IF correctly done, for me correctly done is the push through method.

Rick

[GLL]

An expensive custom target model like the Les Baer that eats many thousands of rounds per year certainly deserves its own custom $90 mould designed specifically for that gun! Do not compromise !
Jerry

[madsenshooter]

I'd say the fellow who started that tale got something out of alignment. I recently had the opportunity to compare two different size versions of the same bullet, the NOE 311365 and it's fatter brother the 316365. Both were final sized to .311. The smaller of the two cast at .312, the larger, .317. The larger shot a bit better than the smaller, probably due to the fatter nose and increased bearing surface. It also shot 400fps slower than the smaller one, probably for the same reasons. But, in any case, sizing down .006 caused me no problems accuracy-wise. In theory, it could, but I've not seen it in practice as of yet.

[mdi]

I have read, I believe it's in the old RCBS cast bullet manual, that for every .001" a cast bullet is sized, one can expect a full 1" difference, larger in group size @ 100 yards. Not my theory, I'm just reporting what I read...

[Bullshop]

I think they didnt have Lee push through sizers then.

[Doc Highwall]

I believe the less you have to size a bullet the better. Now as far as sizers go the old ones had a step that would shave the lead off the bullet and today's dies have a tapered lead to swage the bullet to size. Another thing to take into consideration is the alignment of the top punch and the sizer die and the alloy being used.

Does the shooter have a gun that will shoot ragged one hole groups and can the shooter actually shoot ragged one hole groups? How about human error?
I am not trying to put anyone down but I do want to look at all the variables that relate to the statement.

Say you were using a soft alloy like 30:1 and had a long bullet that had to be sized .003" and did not have good alignment with your sizer, chances are the bullet will come out not match quality.

This is why we have group buys, to make the bullet as close to the ideal size for best accuracy.

[HDS]

As to the thread starters question. Boy I sure hope not! I gotta size .004" myself, haven't had a chance to try it yet but if I don't size it down to that then my revolver will when I shoot it, so either way its gonna happen...

[geargnasher]

There are many things you can do "wrong" with a revolver at 25 yards and never know the difference. So much sizing in the gun can happen and a little timing issue or boolits just a little too soft to bump the cylinder into alignment will get sized off-center as they enter the bore. .45 Colt is not a target round, and although it CAN be made into a shooter, the average revolver won't shoot it straight enough to notice slight issues that may or may not be created by any boolit sizing you do before the gun has a go with it.

Gear

[rays308]

I had the same experience as MadsenShooter. I used a 314365 and a 311365.

I had been advised that the nose might squish off center but, found that the 314365 was actually a very good shooter in my 308. I just had to seat it a little deeper.

I sized down to 311 also.

[williamwaco]

================================================== ====


I'm of the school of thought that believes that's an old wives tales that simply won't go away. It's from the days many years ago before size dies were tapered and instead actually had a step inside that shaved lead from one side of the bullet and any sizing was paramount to destroying it.

So yes, bullets can and should be sized for a correct fit IF correctly done, for me correctly done is the push through method.

Rick

================================================== ====

Well said !

I started casting in the '50s. I have been told now for 60 years by every "Expert" I have ever talked to or read that you will ruin a bullet if you size it more than 0.002"

I don't know if it was ever true. I do know that you could really mangle bullets with those old sizing dies. They actually shaved the bullet. Unless you placed them and guided them very carefully they were 'sized' into to an oval shape.

I routinely size bullets from molds that cast 360/361 down to 356 and they produce 1" groups at 25 yards and 2" groups at 50 yards.

I routinely size bullets from molds that cast 380/381 down to 376/377 and on one occasion 375 with no ill effects.

I routinely size bullets from molds that cast .459/.460 down to .452 with no ill effects.

My advice - try it and see. You might be pleasantly surprised. Win, lose, or draw, you will be a better reloader.

[JIMinPHX]

If I have to size down more than a couple of thousandths, I do it in multiple steps. I lube on the first pass. That seems to lessen lube groove deformation in the subsequent sizing passes. I've had pretty good luck with the standard lube groove boolits that I've done that to, but it's a lot of extra work, so I avoid it whenever possible.

Multiple passes & large size changes do not seem to work out well with tumble lube boolits. Those tiny little washboard shaped lube ripples get wiped off there pretty easily one you try to take much more than a thousandth & a half or two thousandths.

[Nrut]

The best cast boolit 5 shot group that I have ever shot was .63" at 100 meters shooting a RCBS 250gr/.377 boolit sized down to .369" in a 9.3X62..

PP shooters size down their boolits approx. .007" all the time before they wrap them back up to fit their rifle..

[cajun shooter]

I have passed that mark on several occasions with no bad results. The only bad thing is that when I go past this .002 my bullets lose lube groove size. This change has never resulted in any leading but If I see this occur then I stop at this point. If you think that bullet is being damaged by excessive sizing then go to another bullet or a slight change in alloy.

[Dale53]

Shotstring;
I have experience with all manner of cast bullet rifles. When shooting rifles that will routinely group at ½" at 100 yards (ten shot groups from my Peregrine Single Shot rifle for ASSRA bench work) I use a bullet cast in a custom single cavity mould that is shot "as cast". These bullets are plain base and are breech seated. However, for an "as cast" bullet to work, you pretty much are limited to pure metals (in my case, lead/tin alloys) so that the size is consistent and this must be determined BEFORE the mould is ordered. It is a pain in the tuckus but best for the severe demands a competitive bench rifle has to meet. ASSRA matches are at 200 yards and the winners have shot groups under 1" at 200 yards in "conditions" that are prevalent at the time of shooting.

On the other hand, a handgun is considered good by most if it will shoot under an inch at 25 yards. My custom 1911's will routinely break 2" at 50 yards, in good conditions, from a Ransom Rest. NRA Bullseye handgun shooters require THOUSANDS of bullets a year just to stay in shooting shape. Most of us shoot scrap lead and WW based bullet alloys. The alloys will vary a bit from time to time as most of us do NOT shoot pure foundry metals. Variable alloys will cause bullets cast from them to vary in diameter, depending on how much antimony is present (antimony shrinks less than lead when cooling, after casting).

This "problem" absolutely requires a bullet mould that casts a bullet slightly larger than required in a particular handgun. Then it is sized to fit the gun. If you buy a mould of a particular size for "as cast" for use in a handgun, you will most probably not even see the difference on the target (you are not shooting ½" groups at 100 yards). Further, requiring pure foundry metals to maintain that "as cast" diameter will cost a fortune. An undersize bullet will lead and will NOT shoot (trust me in this).

So, as everything in life, there are compromises. In case of handguns, using a "PUSH THROUGH" sizer will not give you problems at .003" inches, (in my experience). On the other hand, you might ask Miha (Mihec) if he can furnish a .452 or .453" mould for your .45 ACP. He has some leeway with his CNC machinery. Personally, I would order the .454" mould and never look back. All of my guns take .452" bullets (in the spirit of full disclosure).

Sizing bullets without damage does demand good sizing technique. I use a flat base punch and size nose first in either my Star or Lee push through sizing dies. Fitted nose punches as used in Lyman and RCBS sizers CAN push bullets off center. Off center bullets are NOT a positive thing. When using a Lyman or RCBS sizer I "float" the nose punch by leaving the set screw loose and rely on a spot of grease to hold the nose punch in place so it can self center (stuck only by the grease between punch and press). These tips should give you the best chance of having accurate bullets.

Just a thought or two...

Dale53

[Char-Gar]

It is not how much you size, but how you size. Use a nose first push though sizing die and you can size much more than .002.

Your OP is mostly hooey, but there is some grain of truth, if you use a sizer that places pressure on the nose. Too much pressure can expand the nose or bend long thin rifle bullets.

I still size pistol bullets the old fashion way, but all rifles bullet are nose first push through sized.

[cbrick]

Very well said Dale,

As Dale said, unless your ordering a mold for a very specific custom gun I believe its better to (as in this cast) to get the .454 mold. My 1911 would shoot .452 as cast just fine but the last mold I got from Miha I ordered the .454. Why? because this 1911 may shoot .452 but what about the next 45 I get? Or the next barrel for this gun? If the next 45 I cast for needs .453 or larger and I had a mold that casts at .452 for the last gun, well . . .

Sizing .001 or .002 isn't a problem and in reality should only serve to slightly round up a possible as cast out of roundness and make the bullet properly fit.

Rick

[Larry Gibson]

There are still a lot of " Old Wive's Tales " out there.

Now ain't that the truth[smilie=b:

I've swaged lots of cast bullets down as much as .011" and gotten excellent accuracy. Lyman 323470 and 323471s being a good case in point sizing them down from .325 to ..319, .316 and .314. Sizing down cast bullets that far has to be done correctly though to maintain a concentric and balanced bullet. You need to put a good solid lube in all the grooves, lube and crimp grooves,and GC them at not more than .001 - .003" from the as cast size. Then it is best to use a push through sizer to finish sizing them down. A sizer in a lubrasizer sizing cast bullets down a significant amount (sometimes as little as .002) can easily distort and bend a cast bullet down, especially if a soft alloy is used. The lube in the grooves does not compress and maintains the lube grooves and the GC maintains a square base and protects the base from distortion while being pushed through the sizer.

The photo shows 2 different .325 bullets sized to .314. I purposely did not lube all the grooves in the 323471 and did not lube the crimp groove in the GB 325-190-FN. This was to show how the swaging collapses them if there is not a good solid lube in them first. The lube used is Javelina. Note how the lubed grooves retained their shape and lube capacity while the unlubed grooves collapsed.

I also have to agree with Doc a bit though. If you have a mould that casts round bullets of excellent quality that are .001 - .003 over groove diameter and/or fit the rifles throat and that rifle's accuracy is capable of telling the difference then minimal sizing, if any, is best.

For the most part the statement that sizing a cast bullet more than .002" will reduce accuracy is a myth....if the sizing is done correctly.

Larry Gibson

[shotstring]

Well, I certainly asked the right crew. Thanks so much for all of your replies.

I have usually been of a similar opinion as was mentioned in one of the posts - and that is that pistol ammunition is far more forgiving than rifle ammunition. I leu of that, I never bother sizing or trimming my brass but simply check it for cracks and dispose of it when I find one. I never worried about slugging barrels either, as I could always get whatever bullet I was using to group very well by careful selection of powder and charge.

I only get persnickety when it comes to the one or two guns I own that are precision tack drivers and used for competition or serious beer bets.:drinks:

Anyway, after reading all your posts, it seems unlikely that sizing down from 454 would hinder accuracy, but as one of the posters pointed out, why take the chance since my Les Baer is certainly worthy of having a mold dedicated to it. I have some other molds in 454 that are dedicated Long Colt molds, it is just that they aren't hollow points. Think I'll dedicate this next one from Miha for my pair of 45 ACP guns and leave it at that.

Thanks again guys.

[HDS]

I decided to play it safe with the miha mould and get the 452, my 1911 barrel slugs to .451 or .4505 anyway.

We shall see how the NOE mold performs however when gets sized down .004"

[JCools]

I finally HAD to start sizing boolits.I picked up a "Colt Trooper 357".Sluged the barrel and cy.It wouldn't even accept the rounds I load.My S&W 520 and charter snubby were fine.When I sized (1st time) today I noticed that most of the boolits were egg shaped.So I would think that sizing would make them MORE ACCURATE. I'm a newbie (1yr casting) but it seems logical to me that a truely round boolit would be more accurate than an egg shaped one.

[geargnasher]

I finally HAD to start sizing boolits.I picked up a "Colt Trooper 357".Sluged the barrel and cy.It wouldn't even accept the rounds I load.My S&W 520 and charter snubby were fine.When I sized (1st time) today I noticed that most of the boolits were egg shaped.So I would think that sizing would make them MORE ACCURATE. I'm a newbie (1yr casting) but it seems logical to me that a truely round boolit would be more accurate than an egg shaped one.

Egg-shaped (oval) boolits don't shoot for squat. Elliptical boolits usually shoot fine, as long as the minor diameter is large enough to obturate the bore.

Gear

[michiganvet]

Inexpensive Lee dies come in many sizes and if you are concerned, do your draw die sizing in increments as recommended by the Corbins.

[shotstring]

I've been doing some more thinking and re-reading the posts on this thread. To me, it makes perfect sense that a 454 bullet sized down to 452 or 451 should work even better than a 452 bullet as it would remove slight out of round problems, as was pointed out. It should even help fill in any gas pockets created in the casting process.

Add that to the fact that 454 makes it available for another popular and useful caliber and you wonder why anyone would order a 452 mold, even if he didn't have a 45 long colt gun. You might get one later, and resale of the mold would be better as you would have twice the customer base (45 acp as well as 45 long colt).

Yet more molds are both made and sold at 452 than at 454. Most 45 acp shooters would prefer a 452 mold for all kinds of reasons, so resale is better on a 452 than a 454 for that reason. I guess another reason would be that if a sizer wasn't available (end of world scenario or simply a cheap caster that insists on tumble lube and no sizing), you could lube them somehow and get them to work.

I think the simple explanation is that sizing of over .001 adds another element of inaccuracy to the equation. Maybe the die slightly off, maybe the pressure during the sizing process is uneven, especially having to now put more pressure on the handle when going .002 or 003. While the casting process might be imperfect, the odds of correcting it rather than making it worse by sizing is questionable.

Overall, the sentiment seems to be the less you do to a finished cast bullet, the better off a shooter is, right or wrong. I've known a lot of shooters that think that way and can't seem to shake that notion myself. Anyway, that's why I can't get myself to order 454 unless it is for long colt. If it really made things better to size down from 454, you would have seen a lot more target and competition shooters doing it over the years. I haven't seen many H & G #68 or #130 molds in 454.

[Lloyd Smale]

dont know and would guess that every differnt bullet reacts diferently to sizing. I know that ive shot 4570 bullets that were originaly 461 sized down to 454 in 45 colts and have worked up loads that went into less then 2 inches at 25 yards and ive had some bullets in the same gun that were made for the 45 colt and even tumble lubed bullets unsized that shot worse then that. About all you can do is try it youself in that particular gun at that particular velocity and that particular alloy and that particular lube ect ect

[Char-Gar]

Mr. Cool et al...Any mold and/or sizing die that is perfectly round would be to costly for most of us to afford. So most all cast and sized bullets are out of round to one degree or another.

Bear in mind that anytime a cast bullet is fired, it takes the shape of the inside of the barrel after it has traveled it's length. You won't find many perfectly round barrels either.

There is round and there is round enough. Cast bullet shooters simply make do with round enough.

Sizing bullet do not make the raw bullets more or less accurate. Sizing is done to get a proper fit of the bullet to the firearm. This fit does make a big difference in how accurate the shot will be.

What made Mr. Cool cry when he slugged the barrel of his Colt Trooper. The Old Model Troopers (as did all vintage Colt revolvers in 38/357 run .354 to .355 in the grooves. A few can be found at .356. The charge hole throats ran around .359. In spite of this, the shot like a house-a-fire.

The latter Colt Troopers MKIIIs, were a different critter and not highly though of, so I never owned one to slug. Don't know anything about them. Colt had begun to look for cost reducing short cuts and the quality of their products went into the tank.

You don't find many shooters sizing .454 for 45 ACP round in autopistols because bullet that large can cause problems in ammo feeding. .451 or .452 is what is needed for that task. Most any sixgun will do well with .454 bullet even if the throats are smaller. The bullet will size down as they pass through the charge hole throats and there won't be enough pressure increase to matter unless a fellow is running rock hard bullets at red line pressures. That is not a good idea anyway.

[Hang Fire]

As a test I sized some Lyman 324366's from .325 down to .317 and shot them in my Mk111 Lee Enfield over 18grns of 2400 and at 50mtrs it put 10 of them inside the 10 ring without a problem. Pat


I size 8mm (.324") down to .315" and get good accuracy, OMMV.

[doghawg]

My experience is the same as Lloyds with .45/70 bullets. AFTER I had the throats reamed to .4525" on an Accusport Bisley .45 Colt I tried some 300 gr. (322 gr. lubed and checked) RCBS rifle bullets sized to .4585". I ran them through a .454 Lee push through and loaded them over 18 gr. of 2400 for 1100 fps. The target on the right is the .45/70 bullet. This was at 25 yards rested but these loads smacked the center of the 50 yard swinger with authority also. Got some more of these loaded for the next range trip but am convinced that .005" of sizing in a Lee push through didn't hurt accuracy.

[cbrick]

I have never experienced a loss of accuracy from sizing but I do believe that it needs to be done correctly. I also believe that "correctly" means a push through, nose first method with a flat punch pushing against a flat bullet base.

A nose punch grabbing the nose and very possibly pushing the bullet into the die at whatever angle the nose was grabbed doesn't seem nearly as accurate (concentric) a method. If the bullet is pushed into a base first die at an angle the more the bullet is sized and/or the more of an angle the less concentric the outcome.

I use Star dies and have never used the LEE dies but it sounds logical that the method is the same and the outcome would be the same . . . More concentric bullets = More accurate bullets.

Rick

[HDS]

Sorry to bump this topic but I had a question about sizers, which sizer systems out there are push through or "nose first" aside from the LEE and Star systems?

[Dale53]

HDS;
As far as I know, only Lee and Star offers "nose first" sizing.

Dale53

[NoZombies]

Those are certainly the only "common" ones.

several other manufacturers have made push through sizer through the years, but parts and dies are hard to find for everything but the star and the Phelps, which was almost identical.

[HDS]

I was wondering because of what I read about nose first being better if you want to size more than a small amount. Looks like a Star for me whenever I decide to move away from pan lubing. I was thinking maybe a used lyman 450 could tidy me over but I am not sure...

[243winxb]

Q: What is the maximum amount a cast bullet can be sized?
A: We do not recommend sizing down more than .002" to .003" as this will cause severe deformity to the bullet, causing decreased accuracy. http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/faqs/bullet-casting.php I find this to be true. [smilie=s:

[felix]

As usual, it is not the absolute amount, but the percentage amount of the diameter. ... felix

[Larry Gibson]

I concur with Bret and Doc; the less a cast bullet is sized the better but there are a lot of "ifs" or "depends" as mentioned. My own experience is that with GC'd bullets you can size down quite a bit, especially with the GC already seated and the grooves full of lube. I have sized .326 bullets down to .314 - .318 and gotten very reasonable accuracy out of rifles those bullets then "fit".

However, PB'd bullets are another story. I've found that if sizing a true PB down more than .001 - .002 care must be taken to keep the bullets base square to the center of the bullets axis when sizing. Thus I like to use push through sizers, have the lube grooves filled and push the bullets through base first. Keeping the base square so an even exit from the muzzle is essential to the best accuracy. I have sized PB'd bullets down using this technique .005 - .006" and maintained excellent accuracy. BTW; a hard brittle alloy is not conducive to such sizing. A softer malleable alloy is better and most often swaged down more uniformly.

Larry Gibson

[Ben]

From Lyman's FAQ
Q: What is the maximum amount a cast bullet can be sized?
A: We do not recommend sizing down more than .002" to .003"


Interesting that Lyman would say that.

However , with the current production of Lyman bullet molds , you're not very likely to have to size down ANY Lyman cast bullet .003.

It is much more likely that after you've cast a few bullets and checked them from your new Lyman bullet mold that they will be .002 - .003 " Sub - Size ".

[HDS]

True I suppose, though I have a NOE mold designed to drop big bullets. I could probably size it to .431" though instead of .430", but I just looked on youtube how fast a Star can go and yikes I want one of those now:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8NdY15RstE&feature=related

[W.R.Buchanan]

Another point to consider is this. Even if that Les Baer pistol will shoot 3/4" groups from a Ransom Rest, you can't shoot it that good with out the rest. In fact if you could hold 6" off hand at 50 yards I would say you are "supernatural". Thus it really doesn't matter?

Now with a .32-40 Scheutzen it probably does matter. But then again it has it's own custom made mould which is probably close to perfect.

With pistol boolits I don't think it matters. I size the hell out of bigger bolits becasue it's the percentage of change that matters not just a hard and fast .002.

.002 on a .22 cal bullet is a lot more work than .002 on a .50 cal boolit

As long as you don't destroy the base it can be a good thing as it insures the boolit is at least round.

I just received my Handloader back issues of #236 and #237 with the .44 Special treaste by Brian Pearce. In one of those issues Mike Venturino did an article on casting match grade boolits.

He and every other BP Silhoutte Shooter in the Master class sizes their Boolits. Since they are shooting at 500 meters, and the BP Target shooters are shooting out to 1000 yards, I would consider them to be "them that knows" on this subject.

If they do it, it must be a good thing?

Randy

[dwight hardy]

I would think that the act of sizing is not the accuracy robber but the result of sizing that has the most effect.