Does anyone have an RCBS or Lee mould that drops .432 bullets?

[Mallard57]

Hi,
I've got a 44Mag. Ruger Super Blackhawk that has .432 cylinder throats. I was wondering if anyone has a mould from the above mentioned manufacturers that drops a ww metal boolit to .432? Once I get that solved, then I can start working on getting a forcing cone cut in the barrel. Is this normal for a Ruger single action to come without a forcing cone?
Thanks,
Jeff

[NVcurmudgeon]

If my two RCBS .44 moulds are typical, .430" to .4305" is about it. (44-240GC and .44-250K.) My alloy is wheelweights plus 2% tin.

[ammohead]

Jeff,

If you have a mould already that drops say .430 you could try "beagle"ing it. Get some of the aluminum tape that ductfitters use and put a thin strip on either side of the mould cavity on one mould half. You might try a search under beagling or beagleing.

Beagle is an old hand around here and he came up with this method of adding a thou or two to a boolits diameter. The tough part might be finding a .432 sizing die. I must confess that I haven't tried this myself yet, but have seen many posts here stating that it works great.

ammohead

[9.3X62AL]

I've "Beagled" a couple different molds from time to time. The procedure works well for getting another .0015-.002" from a mold. The method is successful when dipper casting or drop pouring from a bottom pour pot--but contact pouring will set up a finned casting for me with a Beagled mold.

[Dale53]

Lyman offers a .431" sizing die. I rather suspect that your Super Blackhawk will work quite well with a .431" bullet. If not, it will be pretty easy to enlarge it by .001" with nothing more than an electric drill and some emery cloth.

Dale53

[Scrounger]

Jeff,

If you have a mould already that drops say .430 you could try "beagle"ing it. Get some of the aluminum tape that ductfitters use and put a thin strip on either side of the mould cavity on one mould half. You might try a search under beagling or beagleing.

Beagle is an old hand around here and he came up with this method of adding a thou or two to a boolits diameter. The tough part might be finding a .432 sizing die. I must confess that I haven't tried this myself yet, but have seen many posts here stating that it works great.

ammohead

Instructions from the man himself:

http://www.castpics.net/RandD/mould_enhancement/mould_enhancement.htm

[fecmech]

Jeff--I have an old SBH with .434 throats. I "Beagled" my mold to .435 (Lyman 429421) and sized to .433 with a sizer I had made by someone thru this board but I have CRS disease and can't remember who that was. Anyhow loaded ahead of max loads of 296, AA9 or Blue Dot running in the 1300fps+ range accuracy is less than 3"@ 50 yds. As far as the forcing cone I would send it to Ruger, if it has none they will probably fix it for free.
I would not think you would have any trouble with .432 throats and .430 boolits (with a forcing cone!) as long as you were pushing the boolit pretty hard. My SBH shot very good with magnum loads and wheel wt. bullets, no leading to speak of and very good accuracy. My problems came when I tried to shoot mild .44 spec loads in the 800 fps range. I got leading up the wazoo and no accuracy at all. With .433 bullets barrel is clean as a whistle and accuracy is excellent. I'd get the forcing cone squared away and see what that does for you. Nick

[Mack Heath]

Regarding your forcing cone issue, this came up over on the Ruger Forum from a fellow who was new to Ruger SAs. The forcing cone on the Ruger SA revolvers will not look like one on a DA revolver. They are an exceptionally shallow taper and only really open the breech end up to just slightly over groove diameter.

A couple of tests. First, look to see if you can see the rifling right at the breech end of the barrel. If the rifling does not come all the way to the breech end, then you have a forcing cone. Second, does your gun spit? If you don't have a forcing cone, your gun will spit like a wildcat. I had some custom work done and got the gun back with no forcing cone. My face was bleeding after one box of ammo because of all the spitting that took place.

My suggestion would be to go over to the Ruger Forum and ask someone to show you a picture of a normal Rugre SA barrel.

[Mallard57]

Regarding your forcing cone issue, this came up over on the Ruger Forum from a fellow who was new to Ruger SAs. The forcing cone on the Ruger SA revolvers will not look like one on a DA revolver. They are an exceptionally shallow taper and only really open the breech end up to just slightly over groove diameter.

A couple of tests. First, look to see if you can see the rifling right at the breech end of the barrel. If the rifling does not come all the way to the breech end, then you have a forcing cone. Second, does your gun spit? If you don't have a forcing cone, your gun will spit like a wildcat. I had some custom work done and got the gun back with no forcing cone. My face was bleeding after one box of ammo because of all the spitting that took place.

My suggestion would be to go over to the Ruger Forum and ask someone to show you a picture of a normal Rugre SA barrel.

You're Right, after I posted this I was looking down the barrel with a flashlight and saw that there was a tapered (I'm assuming) area with no rifling. I felt a little silly[smilie=1: . The darn thing does spit a bunch though, I'm sure it could benefit form a little work on the forcing cone.
Thanks for the Info!!
Jeff