Dagnabit, it WORKS

[jhalcott]

tried the method REexplained by BruceB on casting soft nosed cast bullets. THIS time I followed instructions. But I dipped the lead noses instead of melting a sacrificial slug.(It takes less time that way) since I didn't have any lead slugs on hand. Any way, the results are, with a Lee BHN tester,noses LESS than 8bhn and bases about 20bhn. The Lee tester doesn't read softer than about 8bhn. The nose on the 30cal mold is nearly half the length of the 200 grain bullet! In the 358318 mold it is only half the nose portion. I am going to make another micro ladle from a 9mm case.OR find a bullet mold around 75 grains. One smaller than a .30 caliber dia bullet.
UH!! hey bruce,I take back all those things I called you before! Merry Christmas!

[BruceB]

Well, of COURSE it works! Toldja, didn't I???? Didn't I?? (BruceB has a big grin pasted on) Well done, sir!

How do they look on the outside? Is there a seam at the contact between the alloys?

Wait a few days and the coloring difference will probably become more pronounced, and then maybe you could post a photo or two so members can see what I've been raving about...

It's really nice to see that fellow casters can duplicate my results. It sorta proves the theory via "peer review" (as it's called in more sophisicated venues than ours).

[jhalcott]

WELLLL! I don't see the line to clearly with glasses on! I held them under the lighted magnifying glass and it IS there. They weigh 240.4 average of 5. 240.1 to 240.7, but the base is not perfect in this mold. I almost threw them away as I could not see the seam when I opened the mold. I tried a few more just because?? After supper I tested them and was surprised at the difference. I cuold scratch the nose with a finger nail.I trimmed the nose flat with a dremel tool on the few I tested and removed the little stub on the base. Now to make a few for hunting. Am I correct in thinking reloading these with the same load as I'm using with a Lyman #2 alloy is O K?

[medic44]

Were is the method explained.

[jhalcott]

Gents;

Go back and try to follow the instructions as written.

Get the pure lead donor bullet melted in the mould, or the dipper-measured molten pure lead, and then LET IT HARDEN. Do NOT pour the shank alloy on top of the liquid nose material.

After the nose has set up hard, THEN add the harder shank material. Repeat: do NOT pour the shank alloy into the mould when the nose is still liquid. Leave a generous sprue puddle of the shank alloy on the sprue plate.

After the sprue has frozen, THEN float the mould on the melt until the sprue has re-melted. It may take a minute or even two for the alloys to melt completely inside the mould. Give it another minute after the sprue melts before removing from the heat.

I have some cast-softpoint 457125s here which were made several weeks ago by this method, and they CLEARLY show a very great color difference between the nose and the shank, and there certainly IS a substantial difference in hardness between nose and shank. The color variation is much more obvious as time passes, probably due to differing oxidation rates of the two alloys, but the pure-lead noses are dark gray while the shanks are much lighter-colored.

I have to learn how to post photos.

Good grief, if "I" can do this successfully, anyone can!
__________________
Regards from BruceB in Nevada

[jhalcott]

it's about 2 to 4 pages back and VERY helpfull to me!

[Nrut]

Were is the method explained.

medic44.....go to the "molds maintenance and design" forum....BruceB just did a recap on his method of making softnoses

jhalcott......:drinks:

[medic44]

Thanks I found it