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leftiye
04-28-2011, 03:45 PM
I have a ruger blackhawg revolver in .357 maximum caliber that has a little gas cutting on the topstrap just above the barrel/cylinder gap. Does anyone know how this is repaired? If so, does anybody know who does this kind of work?

I have thought to simply solder a piece of stainless steel shim stock to the underside of the topstrap to prevent further flame cutting as it probly isn't enough yet to cause strength issues. Would low temp solder be okay to use without affecting the frame's heat treatment? Thanks, Ted

Wayne Smith
04-28-2011, 03:53 PM
No point in fixing it. It is a self-stopping phenomona. Those gasses will cut until they run out of energy and the cut won't progress any more.

docone31
04-28-2011, 03:54 PM
I wouldn't worry about that.
Now, my Dan Wesson .357 Supermag, that was another story.
The lifetime warranty came in handy for that one.
You probably got a long way to go on that plasma cutting.

buck1
04-28-2011, 03:58 PM
If I recall, it goes about .020 and stops. Thats why they dropped them........Buck

Dframe
04-28-2011, 04:06 PM
Most likely you don't NEED to do anything, but I like your idea about soft soldering in a piece of stainless shim stock. That should satisfy even the slightest concern you might have about additional cutting, and is easily replaced when you wish.

leftiye
04-28-2011, 04:16 PM
Wow! Lossa help mucho fast! Thanks guys! I remember reading about it being a non-terminal problem with wear stopping at some point. Slipped my mind, I guess. I may just put that shield over it though, for good measure, ya know.

462
04-28-2011, 05:05 PM
I don't own a revolver that hasn't been flame cut, and don't worry about it.

Onward.

lkydvl
04-28-2011, 07:23 PM
If you simply must have it fixed forget the soldering idea. SS doesn't solder easily and isn't going to hold up long.

The best fix, short of either replacing the frame or not shooting, is to remove the barrel and have someone thats GOOD with a Tig welder repair the cut and dress the area so the barrel can be reinstalled.

Andre`

theperfessor
04-28-2011, 07:30 PM
I've thought that cutting away part of the top strap and brazing a piece of carbide in place would stop gas cutting completely, but the top strap would have to be thicker to make up for the lost strength.

Guesser
04-28-2011, 08:36 PM
Interesting conversation. I was out the other day checking out a newly acquired Colt Army Special made in 1922. It is chambered in 32 W.C.F. Colt, at the time thought enough of the flame cutting that they actually milled out a hollow in the top strap just above the "gap", that would accomplish the same as the cutting reaching its physical limit and ceasing to cut further. Maybe we haven't progressed as far or as fast as some would have us believe.

swheeler
04-28-2011, 08:44 PM
":I have thought to simply solder a piece of stainless steel shim stock to the underside of the topstrap to prevent further flame cutting as it probly isn't enough yet to cause strength issues. Would low temp solder be okay to use without affecting the frame's heat treatment? Thanks, Ted"

This is just my opinion, but I wouldn't want to be at the bench next to you with this soldered on patch. I had a piece of metal in my neck from the guy next to me firing his 300 mag with it's brand new muzzle break, first shot nailed me, glad it wasn't an eye.

462
04-28-2011, 08:52 PM
Interesting conversation. I was out the other day checking out a newly acquired Colt Army Special made in 1922. It is chambered in 32 W.C.F. Colt, at the time thought enough of the flame cutting that they actually milled out a hollow in the top strap just above the "gap", that would accomplish the same as the cutting reaching its physical limit and ceasing to cut further. Maybe we haven't progressed as far or as fast as some would have us believe.

Yep, I used to have a 1916 S&W Second Model Hand Ejector, chambered in .45 Webley for the Canadians, that had dished out area milled in the top strap. There was not any trace of gas cutting.

It's cost effective, today, to eliminate that extra machining step, thus we end up with disfigured revolvers.

stubshaft
04-28-2011, 09:20 PM
Usually the erosion in the throat is a bigger concern.

MT Gianni
04-28-2011, 09:30 PM
You can send it in to Ruger and let them keep it. They will credit you toward a new gun they currently make. Please offer it for sale here before you do this.

Tom W.
04-28-2011, 09:55 PM
Or you can check with Bob Cogan at apwcogan.com and see what he can do for it.

Big Boomer
04-28-2011, 10:19 PM
Leftiye:

If I recall correctly, the difficulty with the flame cutting of the .357 Maximum Blackhawk frame was primarily the use of lighter bullets with powders more suited to heavier projectiles. The Maximum is at its best with heavier bullets. While Ruger ceased production of the Maximum, there was no read need.

Don't worry about the flame cutting. It will cease. Too, anything you put in there to prevent further flame cutting just might come out at an inopportune/dangerous time.
Be safe. 'Tuck

tonyjones
04-28-2011, 10:52 PM
I have a S&W M&P 340 CT. This is a scandium alloy frame revolver. It comes from the factory with what appears to be a stainless steel J shaped insert press fit between the top of the barrel extension and the bottom of the top strap. I assume it's there to prevent gas cutting.

Tony

Longwood
04-28-2011, 10:57 PM
Correct me if I am mistaken.
I seem to recall Skeeter, or another writer, saying the same thing said by Tuck previously.
Leave it be, it will stop cutting when it gets to a certain point.
Didn't at least one manufacturer make a small rounded groove in it's frames to prevent cutting?

alamogunr
04-29-2011, 12:13 AM
The S&W Night Guard revolvers have a little piece of metal with a "U" bend on one end that wedges between the frame and the rear of the barrel. I assume to protect the alloy frame from flame cutting.

I just went to the S&W web site and clicked on revolvers. The Night Guard is shown in a revolving animation and you can see the shield, although it is not explained.

John
W.TN

cbrick
04-29-2011, 11:27 AM
Glen Fryxell wrote about this in this artice, as is normal with Glen, an interesting read.

The 357 Maximum (http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_357Max.pdf)

Rick

Wayne Smith
04-29-2011, 06:07 PM
If you simply must have it fixed forget the soldering idea. SS doesn't solder easily and isn't going to hold up long.

The best fix, short of either replacing the frame or not shooting, is to remove the barrel and have someone thats GOOD with a Tig welder repair the cut and dress the area so the barrel can be reinstalled.

Andre`

Quite true, but then the fix would flame cut, and what have you accomplished?

songdog53
04-30-2011, 08:40 AM
I have pre-WW2 Colt that has pre cut in top strap. I thought was from gas cutting till looked at it really good. I inherited the pistol and it isn't shot. Is 38spl and i don't think a 38 would ever cut that much out. So must have been pre dished out or maybe i am wrong and is from hot gas erosion. Anyone have one like this?

Wayne Smith
04-30-2011, 11:59 AM
I just traded a S&W Hand Ejector First change dating to the teens or early 20's and it had the same cut-out dish. Flame cutting is a straight line cut, not a dish.