broken handle bolts / Mi hec mold

[gray wolf]

Here is the edit to this post

Well like I said earlier I talked to a Machinist friend??? and He said
"Sure I can take them out for you"
So I think great, no problem. But when I got home his words kept echoing in my mind, the words were.
"Oh yea I just did one for somebody else, he thought he had a real problem.
Took me 5 Min. and I charged him 50 bucks $$.
50 bucks !!!!!???????
Holly Bazooka rounds, If I had 50 bucks I could by some primers and shoot this summer.
Well the new screws from Mi Hec are not here yet so I thought what the heck.
I kept looking at the mold and noticed the blocks were a lot looser than normal
on the handles.
Well the only thing that would make em looser is that the screws must have backed out a little. I flooded the holes with Kroil magic oil last night and again this morning. I kept tapping on the handle hinge bolt ( don't ask how many taps )
Yep the blocks got even looser. I sharpened a paper clip and was able
to get to the broken screw that was 1/4'' below the surface of the mold block
(below the screw head recess) There was a sliver of screw showing at this point and I was able to shake the mold and turn the screw, shake and turn,
shake and turn. Well men they came out, both of them.
I seem to always panic before I figure things out, but I do.
There is no way I could have put back a standard screw.
The thread ends and there is about 3/4 of an inch that is UN-threaded, like a straight shaft to fit into the handles. So as soon as I get the new screws I am back in business, and that's the story.
I want to thank you all for the help and a special thanks to the person that PM me and offered to take the screws out for me.

Sam :Fire: :drinks: :-D





Went to clean my 45 ACP mold today
Mi Hec Brass mold 200 grain HP.
Both screws that hold the mold to the handles SNAPPED off.
I clean and oil every part of my mold before putting it away.
Oil was run on and into the screw holes Two day's ago.
They were not tight and not much pressure was applied while trying to remove them, however they are broke in half with the top half in my hand, and the other half stuck in the mold. The mold may still work ?? but I can't take the handles off.
Can a machinist get in there and extract the broken screw ?
if so I think they are not common to a hardware store.
Any thoughts on this ?.

Sam

[462]

Bummer, man.

With the upmost care -- to not damage the mould -- the screws can be removed, and, most likely, they are metric.

I'm not the best when it comes to ultra-precise and delicate work, so, in a case like this, would opt to have the job done professionally.

Good luck.

[Firebricker]

check your auto parts store for a left handed drill bit a little smaller diameter than the screw. If you have part of the screw left with threads they might be able to match it up even being metric. FB

[gray wolf]

I'm not the best when it comes to ultra-precise and delicate work,

Well I'm pretty good but that word ULTRA is a little in front of me.
So it looks I like I may have made my last HP for a while. I can't understand how both screws snapped at the same time. Well yes I do stuff happens Eh .
In the mean time I'll shoot WC
While I'm shooting the WC I'll figure it out.

[sav300]

Grey wolf is a man that wont be stopped.Try the left handed drill bit.

[stubshaft]

I had a problem with one of Al's moulds when the allen screw head expanded and got stuck in the mould. Can't get the handle off now. Since that time I've been using Bullplate to lube the screws when I mount the mould.

[gray wolf]

How about this--
Could a machinist set the mold up on a milling machine and drill out the screws without boogering up the threads in the mold ??
Perhaps drill most of the screw out and then use a magic machinist type tool (easy out)
to remove the remainder of the screw. The screw seems to be a common Allen head screw.
Worth a try ??

[MtGun44]

Left handed drill bit, PLEASE!

I have tried many different ways and many different times. The ONLY ones that have
worked when there is no stub left is the left handed drill bit. Drill into the screw and
eventually it will snag and suddenly unscrew on the end of the drill bit.

REALLY!!!

Bill

[Shooter6br]

WOW Gray Wolf I have the same mold. I better lube the bolts. Sorry for your troubles but I considered myself "warned" Hope Maine is treating you right Rick

[Alstep]

Yes, Graywolf. I would suggest an undersized end mill to start out. An end mill will go where the spindle is lined up with the hole. A drill bit will tend wander off center, as the broken screw surface is not flat. Also, drill bits will wander into the softer metal. (If the screw is broken off close to the surface, you might be able to use a center drill) Once you have a hole started in the broken screw, then drill it out. A left hand drill may even back the screw out. Clean up the threads with a tap and you're good to go. Only danger is a broken bit, go carefully and use some cutting oil.
Good luck, Al

[Wayne Smith]

Greywolf, I know you can believe Alstep, I've met him and he is a VERY experienced machinist.

[Jailer]

You're suppose to clean a brass mold after use? Only time I've cleaned my aluminum molds is when they were new and if I had a problem with them that required a cleaning.

[gray wolf]

I do clean and oil them, both screws snapped in the same place, same time.
But thanks for the suggestion.

[troy_mclure]

got any easy-outs? if you dont i can lend you the size you need.

[gray wolf]

The mold maker is sending me a set of screws all the way from Slovenia.
He is very helpful. I have a guy(friend) that said he would drill out the broken screws.
They are down below the mold surface down in the screw head recess. He said end mill to get
a hole started, then easy out or reverse drill, his choice. Put the new screws in and I should be good to go.
Thanks for all the help, I just don't have the tools to do it myself.
Chain saw, hammer, but not what I need. I will let you all no when it's done.

[largom]

I know you have new screws coming but why not let the machinist drill out the old screws and then retap the holes to an American thread size. Your new screws may break off just like the old ones did.

Larry

[montana_charlie]

When you reach the point where you can put new scews in the holes, remember that dissimilar metals like to seize up.
So, treat the threads with anti-seize compound during assembly.
CM

[Echo]

Left handed drill bit, PLEASE!

I have tried many different ways and many different times. The ONLY ones that have
worked when there is no stub left is the left handed drill bit. Drill into the screw and
eventually it will snag and suddenly unscrew on the end of the drill bit.

REALLY!!!

Bill

+1 - has worked for me in the past. But look at a machine shop supply place - better luck finding a left-hand twist drill there. YMMV

[leadman]

Oil may not be the best choice for lubing the screw threads as it may burn due to the heat. Depends on the oil. Motor oil, 3 in 1, etc, will not stand the heat.

Anti-seize will stand the heat. Used to use it on exhaust manifild bolts and turbo mounting studs when I was a mechanic.

[HATCH]

bullplate will stand the heat

[Doc Highwall]

I do not like to oil my moulds after I get them clean instead I have a electric dehumidifier that was made for safes when I store them and I put some silver anti seize on the threads so they will not seize. Another thing I do being lazy is I keep a set of handles on the moulds I use the most so I do not have to change them and another set for other moulds that take the same kind.

[gray wolf]

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