Choosing a mold

[texas tenring]

When trying to choose a rifle mold for accuracy at 100-200yds. is there a particular boolit design that consistantly performs better? For instance, I noticed Lyman and RCBS both list some molds as silhouette, it looks like for the most part these boolits have longer noses that ride the lands. What are the advantages or disadvantages of these types of boolit designs?

I realize hunting boolits are a whole other issue if I understand correctly in a cast boolit you want a large meplate design for better expansion and larger wound channel. If I have my cast boolit anatomy wrong please correct me.

[BABore]

In reality, all those you mentioned are generics. Some designs are more accurate than others probably due to them being more forgiving to bore and throat dimensions. An accurate bullet, for your gun, will be one that fits the bore and throat properly. You need to know that first and formost. With that knowledge you will be better able to choose a design that works for you.

[grouch]

I suggest that nose shape is usually unimportant to accuracy. Start with a bullet with as long a bearing on the rifling as possible and as little unsupported nose. We've all got our superstitions, so there's mine.

Hope that helps. Grouch

[Bret4207]

The posts above are pretty much in line with my theory. I'll add that a fairly heavy for the caliber design, 180+ grains in 30 cal for instance, tends to work better for me.

[9.3X62AL]

We'll need more info to answer your question more succinctly.

What caliber and chambering are you asking about? Bore riders that fit can shoot very well, but you have land diameter as well as groove and throat diameter to be concerned about.

Some calibers relate well to certain designs, too. 30-06 gets along with #311284 and #311291, for example. The Lee 8mm-175 works VERY well for lots of milsurp 8 x 57 shooters.

[texas tenring]

I've got several rifles I'll be wanting to buy molds for mostly milsurps and I'm aware of the importance of sluging the bore and measuring grooves and lands. How is the best way to measure the throat? Are you all doing chamber cast and if so whats the easiest and most economical meathod for this?

After I have all that information I guess my question is there a particular style boolit that may be more accurate in rifle shooting.

[BABore]

An impact slug or Cerrosafe cast.

For an impact slug fill a fired case, from that gun, with lead to the top and chamber it. Slide a 3/4 to 1 inch long cylinder of pure lead, just under bore size a bit, down the bore. Use a close fitting, square ended, steel rod. Slide it gently down the bore to rest on your slug. (I use an undersized steel rod with electrical tape on it, then attach an aluminum cylinder to the end that just fits down the bore.) With the rifle reating on its butt, whack the rod end with a 2-4 lb hammer. When the rod bounces, you went far enough. One or two heavy hits are better than a bunch of light tap-taps. I make the lead cylinders by drilling an appropriate size hole in a piece of aluminum or even wood and pour them from Pb.

[Bass Ackward]

[QUOTE=texas tenring;127257]When trying to choose a rifle mold for accuracy at 100-200yds. is there a particular boolit design that consistantly performs better?

I realize hunting boolits are a whole other issue if I understand correctly in a cast boolit you want a large meplate design for better expansion and larger wound channel. [QUOTE]

Texas,

The number one thing is bullet fit. Since I can't size bore ride noses without a whole lot of hastle, I keep them really short so that I get maximum bearing length for a particular weight. So basically, I am a one diameter kinda guy.

But one other factor you don't mention is the velocity range at which you want that accuracy. And what kind of accuracy we are talking. If 1 1/2" is your goal at cast bullet velocities, then the answer is anything that fits.

The faster you want to go, the easier it will be with a smaller meplat or more aerodynamic design. The bullet must exit, meet the wind, and go to sleep. The wider the nose, the more violent and longer this process takes.

[texas tenring]

Wow! These are some good answers! I know its a very difficult question and like they say if it was easy everybody would be doing it!!!

I do understand why it is important to find the right boolit for your chamber, throat and bore and I also realize that it is probably easier said than done. I also assume that all the same principles apply to rate of twist and boolit weight(or more realisticly boolit length). I know sometimes you work with what you have.

BAbore Impact slug sounds like a great idea I've never heard of it before but with a little care not to cause damage I can see how this will work. (great idea!)

Bass Ackward I'm punching holes thru paper mostly and want to be able to knock down rams at 200yds. So at this point setting velocity records with cast boolits is not important to me. Someday I'll want to work up some hunting loads for deer and hogs but right now to be honest a hand full of shells will do that, if you don't count that time I unloaded my Winchester 94 444marlin seven rounds at two pigs and came home with no bacon. They were running fast!!! There were lots of trees!!! It was almost dark!!! Excuses excuses..... Nevermind.

To make a long story short I've got one kid in college a 13yr. old and a 2 1/2yr. old, a wife that likes to spend money. So I find myself in a stricter budget than I would like for my shooting. I have to make every dollar squeal so I'm trying to learn as much as I can before turning loose of those hard earned bucks.

All opinions are appreciated Thanks!

[357maximum]

impact slug...another way is to take a casing fired in "the" gun you are making the cast from...take a small amount of aluminum foil and wrap it around the case neck and extending about an inch and a half above the neck..**(should look like an aluminum cigarette). fill with molten soft lead.

when it cools remove the foil and "whittle" it till it chambers then lube it lightly. then do the hammerring as BaBore posted above...another reason to sort the tape ons out of your clip on ww's...

[texas tenring]

impact slug...another way is to take a casing fired in "the" gun you are making the cast from...take a small amount of aluminum foil and wrap it around the case neck and extending about an inch and a half above the neck..**(should look like an aluminum cigarette). fill with molten soft lead.

when it cools remove the foil and "whittle" it till it chambers then lube it lightly. then do the hammerring as BaBore posted above...another reason to sort the tape ons out of your clip on ww's...

Thanks for the info, I bet a small piece of alumimnum tape wraped around the case neck as you describe would make easy work of this process.

I sure like all the other newbies like me asking questions on this forum. I continue to learn something new every time I log on. All you guys with the expirience keep up the good work. :-D

[sundog]

My smithy put me on to using sulphur for a chamber cast, and it works like a champ! A little micro graphite mixed in for easy release makes it better. He says that its better because of the shrinkage problem with cerosafe. My bar of cerosafe is still sitting there in it's original bar. Probably won't ever use it now.

About 'sillywet' designs. I don't know that any of them are inherently more accurate than any other boolit design. If they were then I'd think the 'big boys' who shoot the CBA matches would all be flocking to them. As others have already mentioned FIT is way more important. And, even if it's GCd, A GOOD BASE IS CRITICAL. Add one more thing - concentricity. sundog

[Buckshot]

...............The Lyman 311284 besides being one of the first 5 designs to be made to accept those new fangled gas check thingies, was designed by Lyman to allow National Guardsmen to practice with their Krags at 600 yards.

Look at that boolit and you'll see what still holds very true for a long range cast slug. It's long, and as a consequence is heavy for the caliber (as others mentioned) it is balanced between bearing and engraving (drive band) areas. Another design just like it, only shorter and one of the eternal 30 cals is the Lyman 311291. While not a true 'Long Range" number, it's design is similar and it's been said if you have a 30 cal and it won't shoot this boolit, it may not shoot ANY cast boolit.

What holds true for the 30 cal will also be the same for any other. Look at the BPCR guys shooting to 600 yards in silhuette and also long range at 800, 900 and 1000 yards. The 38's (.375) shooting 335grs or maybe heavier, 40's shooting 425grs or more and the 45's shooting 530gr +.

..................Buckshot

[texas tenring]

Thanks for the information Buckshot I think I'm finally starting to get a clue on what to look for when choosing a mold. I also read the thread about the 311284 on the mold....maintanance forum, a lot of good information there also.

[texas tenring]

My smithy put me on to using sulphur for a chamber cast, and it works like a champ! A little micro graphite mixed in for easy release makes it better. He says that its better because of the shrinkage problem with cerosafe. My bar of cerosafe is still sitting there in it's original bar. Probably won't ever use it now.

About 'sillywet' designs. I don't know that any of them are inherently more accurate than any other boolit design. If they were then I'd think the 'big boys' who shoot the CBA matches would all be flocking to them. As others have already mentioned FIT is way more important. And, even if it's GCd, A GOOD BASE IS CRITICAL. Add one more thing - concentricity. sundog

Sundog can you tell me more sulphur for a chamber cast. How do you do it and where do you get it?

[357maximum]

Sundog can you tell me more sulphur for a chamber cast. How do you do it and where do you get it?

I would not mind an edumacation on that myself....

[sundog]

T.T., yup, plain ole powder suphur like you'd get from a chemical supply house. the place I last got some sold it in 50 or 80 bags and the feller just gave me a scope in a baggie for nothing from a braoken sack. I use one of those little cast 'arn' ash trays and a torch to melt it. Be careful not to heat too fast or too get hot - all of a sudden the yellow powder liquifies. When it's liquid, stir in about 25-30% graphite - I put mine in ahead of time - and pour it into whatever your casting. The last one i did I used a short length of half inch flex pipe through the received pressed down hard on the chamber and poured it in thru a funnel. Worked fine. Let it set for about 30 minutes and gave it a gently tap with a cleaning rod - out she came. Cleaned the chamber and bore good and put in a fresh coat of Hoppes. You might want to review the MSDS for it before you decide to use it, in fact, it's suggested. sundog

[rebliss]

Did you plug the barrel ahead of the chamber somehow for this? Maybe I'm not visualizing it correctly.

[MT Chambers]

The more I look at it the more i think that Saeco #315 is the best design (potentially) for a target bullet.