star sizer plate size

[Thinktwicez71]

I got an original star sizer comming tommorow , and for the time being I am going to do the metal plate/iron trick for a heater. I work at a fab shop that has a lot of stainless steel scrap plates and a sheer I can cut it to whatever size I want , my question is what size piece do I need to mount my star to and also have room for the iron , and will stainless be ok and work as good as aluminum?

[6bg6ga]

use aluminum for good heat transfer. 1/2" thick is fine

I would suggest saving yourself the trouble and just purchasing a heating element such as a cartridge element 1/4" x 4" X 300 watts and run it with either a PID control or a SS dimmer unit.

You will need to solidly mount the Star to the plate and bolt it to something rigid.

[runfiverun]

the stars are mounted to thier heating element.
the boolit feeder is mounted to the same heating element.
the heater is bolted to the bench.
aluminum is the better heat transfer you need to heat the lube tube and the body of the star for it to be effective.
the star heating element sits right under the lubesizer.

[6bg6ga]

quote:
the stars are mounted to their heating element.
the boolit feeder is mounted to the same heating element.
the heater is bolted to the bench.
aluminum is the better heat transfer you need to heat the lube tube and the body of the star for it to be effective.
the star heating element sits right under the lubesizer.

I think what you are trying to say is this.

If you purchase a "Star/Magma" heating element it is internal to the aluminum plate that also serves as a means to bolt the sizer down. The aluminum plate is also drilled to allow mounting of the boolit feeder. The aluminum is a far better element for heat transfer than stainless steel is.

The down fall of this is the cost of the "Magma" heater assembly. I believe it is still over $100 and as mentioned it has a means of mounting the bullet feeder as well as an internal heating element and a bi-metallic thermostat.

I purchased a scrap piece of aluminum 10x11.5x1/2 for around $18.00 I purchased a heating element for $27 and made a PID control for it. I drilled and tapped the aluminum plate for the sizer and for the bullet feeder. I also drilled it for the heating element which is 1/4" dia and the thermocouple sensing unit that is 1/8".

The point is that if you are capable of drilling a few holes you can end up with something that is superior to what can be purchased. I would caution you on the use of an iron as a heating element because of the risk of burn injury to yourself or small children or animals. I applaud people for being cost efficient but sometimes common sense needs to over ride the desire to save a few dollars. Keep the heating source internal to the aluminum plate and injuries will be eliminated.

[HATCH]

alternately you can purchase the following

$45 - Lyman Universal Heater -> EXAMPLE (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=182761)
$36 - PID controller -> EXAMPLE (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14&zenid=28d572f6a65f98df5affb792bd0e451e)
$5 - TC sensor bolt on -> EXAMPLE (http://cgi.ebay.com/Thermocouple-Sensors-K-type-Washer-14mm-id-/250751544378?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a61f4ec3a)

I can provide you the SSR relay for it.
Yes, you will end up spending the $100 that you would spend for the factory Star Unit but you will be able to control your temperature better and be able to constantly repeat it every time.
I turn on my PID and do some surfing. When it says its up to temp I start sizing away.
Unlike other setups, I have accidentally left it on overnight and I DIDN'T have a puddle of lube on my bench.

On my setup I use a Lyman universal (its already drilled and threaded for the star btw) because I was using a Lyman 45 before.

I mounted the TC (thermocouple) sensor between two washers on the back left corner mounting hole
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/63344d6dab9a6228d.jpg

[Doby45]

I agree with the Lyman Universal heater. I will get a pic tonight. I used the heater and then I made a dimmer box from a double gang electrical box, a rotary dimmer switch, a standard outlet and some wire. The dimmer box cost me something like $8 and I have a thermometer on my base that I can watch the temp of my base and then make a note on the face plate of the dimmer as to what my temp is at that setting on the dial. Works great, was cheap and really added to the sizing experience.

[Doby45]

This is where I have my thermometer on my heater..

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/Doby45/c496b154.jpg

This is a picture of the face of the dimmer box..

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/Doby45/0b55014c.jpg

This is a side shot of the dimmer box..

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b327/Doby45/04f2b0c9.jpg

If you notice in photo two you can see the mark I made to denote not only the direction to turn the knob (crazy I know) but also the location of 90* for Carnuba Red. I simply turn the knob there and plug in the heater and in about 20min my heater has the base up to 90* and the sizer hums along like a Singer sewing machine.