Tried casting some LBT WFN today and could use some advice!

[Matabele]

Hi all,
First post here although Ive been lurking for a while and learning a lot, great forum! Im totally new to boolit casting and have just finished my first casting session, I could use some advice.

I just cast 50 boolits from a LBT WFN mold for my .44 Mag, the specs on the mold say it will cast a 320gr boolit using Wheel Weights and diameter is .431” (which is what I ordered and wanted for a hunting bullet). Now the boolits are measuring 335gr (im using scrounged wheel weight alloy) and mike out using a micrometer at between .435-438”. So my question is...thats a pretty big difference from the mold specs. Is it something Im doing during casting, and are they shootable like this?

Ive noticed with this LBT mold that there is quite a noticeable gap at the base of the mold when you hold it up to the light, when looking at what would be the base of the bullet I can see a noticeable gap clear through the nose of the section of the mold (its a two cavity mold and the gap seems consistent for both cavities), is this normal? For expansion of air or something? Also I have a a RCBS Keith type mold 250gr, this thing looks like it shuts like a bank vault, there are no noticeable gaps at all. With the LBT even a firm squeeze with the mold handles doesn’t seem to shut the mold completely tight, and in fact I had better luck closing it using my two hands to squeeze the mold shut evenly. I only tried this after casting though, once I had miked the boolits and found they were oversized. Could that be the problem then, anyone had that experience as well?

Im assuming these boolits will lead quite badly being 0.004-0.007” oversize, can they be sized down with a Lee Lube/Size die to 0.431” ok do you think?

Ive attached a picture of a few of the boolits picked at random. You can see the mold line on the boolits pretty easily, and most have a fin of lead on the nose and some on the sides of the bullet as well. Am I running the mold too hot maybe? Also do the lube grooves look deep enough?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s194/Tamboti/LBT320grFirstTry.jpg

I guess I should say that I dropped the boolits straight into water to quench them a bit harder for hunting, and for fluxing Im using saw dust. I don’t skim the saw dust off completely though, just brush a clear area in the molt using the scoop and then dip. Should I skim all the charred saw dust off before starting to cast?

Sorry for the long post and all the questions, but like I said Im new to all this and could use some advice, thanks!

[44man]

You might have to work on the locating pins, tap them in until the blocks close tight with no side play. You should not see light between blocks. It is a matter of a few thousandths.

[RobS]

The roll pins Veral uses for alingment pins can be a bit of an issue as they will catch on the opposite block. I had one of his molds and I had to use a drill bit a touch smaller than the female socket and I wrapped the chuck end of the bit with dry/wet sand paper and spun it in the female socket until the male end (roll pin) would fit. I tried to tap the pins down but didn't have much luck with the LBT mold I had.

[cbrick]

most have a fin of lead on the nose and some on the sides of the bullet as well. thanks!

44man has it, you need to simply adjust the pins as he explained. Don't take any power tools or drill bits to your mold, just adjust the pins. I use a brass punch for this, a brass punch is expendable, my molds are not. Tap them in just barely enough that the blocks close completely (just Like your RCBS mold) with zero movement of the blocks. Should you go a little too far just tap them a bit the other way.

You could leave the sawdust ash on top of the melt to ladle cast, when I ladle I remove it just cause it's easier. I leave it there when I bottom pour.

Good looking bullets (except the fins).

Rick

[Down South]

What 44 Man said plus check the mould faces to see if one has lead or some trash stuck to it.

[RobS]

Don't take any power tools or drill bits to your mold, just adjust the pins.
Rick

If this comment is directed toward my post please note that I never said to use the cutting end of the drill bit nor did I say to use the bit in a drill or drill press. I simply turned things by hand enough to clean out the female socket of the opposing block. Roll pins are hollow have a gap in them which makes it a PITA to move in or out of the mold block and I know as I tried with a brass hammer and didn’t like how hard I was “tapping” with no movement. After lapping/smoothening the female ends I had no problems.

[Piedmont]

Before you alter it just try squeezing hard every time before you do your next cast. I had one that was giving variable diameters at first and it was my fault. Those roll pins sort of wear in.

[Matabele]

Thanks for all your comments and input, its really appreciated! Well after reading about the roll pins maybe being the problem I had another look at the mold and sure enough the pins seemed to be standing a bit proud and not letting the mold close completely. I tapped them in a bit and now the mold closes perfectly, even when held up to a strong light I cant see any gap at all. I guess the proof is going to be in the next casting session, I'll post the results incase any one is interested.

Thanks again!

[RobS]

Matabele:

Great to hear it worked out for you by just tapping the pins down. Just for curiosity of comparing LBT molds was your female alignment holes cut cleanly, with no burrs etc. Also how hard did you have to tap the alignment pins as mine wouldn't budge with fairly hard taps from a small brass hammer?

[Matabele]

Hi RobS, I had another look at the mold and the female holes do have some burrs and such although I think that is from me trying to squeeze the mold shut and the pins binding. I think the roll pins in these molds are the weak link, they just cant be produced to the same tolerances as the rest of the mold and if they are slightly out of round or not set at the correct depth then they will bind on closing and not allow the mold to close properly.

I used a regular dry wall hammer to tap the pins in. The one pin went in fine no problems, the other pin was more stubborn and to avoid using excessive force I sprayed some penetrating oil in the pin cavity to act as a lube. A couple of brisk taps and the pin had moved to where I needed it to.

These LBT molds look like they throw a great bullet but for the money you pay they should work 100% from the go.

Hope it works out for you RobS!

[RobS]

It's been quite some time ago since I fixed (lapped the alignment pin sockets) of the LBT mold I purchased and I'll agree with you that with the cost of the mold it shouldn't have problems. The LBT I eventually sold and later went the route of designing my own boolits at Mountain Molds and more recently Accurate Molds; both of these guys do outstanding work and use stainless steel bushings and pins in their molds. I have had some BRP molds and his workmanship is also excellent however there is not the ability to design your own as he uses cherries to cut his molds.

[Swede44mag]

You might want to melt the to big boolits and recast since you have fixed the problem.

Who makes the LBT molds?

[Pat I.]

Make sure you lube the mould according to the directions using the lube Veral sent. Don't worry about uglying up the mould because it's what's on the inside that counts. You probably wouldn't have had to adjust the pins if you'd lubricated them and either squeezed real tight for a few casts or tapped the blocks together with your sprue cutting mallet a few times. Verals makes the pins tight, which he mentions in the directions, and they need lube and a little time and effort to seat in. I have quite a few of them and they all cast perfect bullets exactly at the diameter I ordered.

[Matabele]

Pat thats some interesting info. I didnt receive any lube or instructions when I received my mold, maybe that would have made the difference. I'll see if I can find something on the net.

Swede44 google the LBT website, there is a lot of great info there apart from the molds.

Just as a follow up I cast another 50 odd boolits after tapping in the pins, and they are dropping out right at .431-.432"...just as Pat said though I realised the mold may have needed a firmer squeeze when closing due to the heat expansion of the pins. So with that in mind I think they will drop right at .431"...perfect! Also they dropped 5gr in weight and now weigh 330gr a piece.

Thanks again for the help!

[RobS]

Mold lube for the pins and the sprue plate really helps with operation and longevity of the mold. I've used high quality synthetic 2 cycle engine oil as well as Bullplate sprue lube. Bullplate is a lube developed by a forum member here by the name of Bullshop and it is really great stuff. http://castboolits.gunloads.com/member.php?u=141

Only a small amount of either applied with a Q-tip to the bottom of the sprue plate and alignment pins does wonders. Make sure to avoiding getting it in the cavities though as it will result in base fill out problems; in thought, a little goes a long way and you'll be fine.

Bullplate sprue lube can be found at this link:
http://bullshop.gunloads.com/tbs_lube.htm

[Matabele]

Just what I was looking for, thanks RobS! I was going to try some of my bullet lube as a mold lube as that is beeswax based but I'll have a look at the link you provided as well.

[Pat I.]

Just what I was looking for, thanks RobS! I was going to try some of my bullet lube as a mold lube as that is beeswax based but I'll have a look at the link you provided as well.


You should email Veral for a copy of the directions and a stick of his mould lube. The moulds I got from him always came with both.

[PacMan]

What Pat I. said each time.
Did you get the mold new? If so i find it interesting that it did not come with lube or instructions.

Seems like you cured your problem wich is great. Just as info. make sure your handles fit right (RCBS).
I only had one problem with one of the 8 LBT molds that i have and that was with a GC shank size and he fixed that.

As far as mold lube goes i use the supplied stick lube for the pins.I think it works better than Bullplate there. I use Bullplate on the sprue plate and top of mold (best stuff since&*%#) for that application. I also coat the entire blocks on the outside each casting session with Bullplate.Helps clean any splatter off. (i am a sloppy ladle caster)

By the way i really like Verals molds. Have several with one on the way.Easiest to cast with mold i have found.

Dwight

[crash87]

Make sure you lube the mould according to the directions using the lube Veral sent. Don't worry about uglying up the mould because it's what's on the inside that counts. You probably wouldn't have had to adjust the pins if you'd lubricated them and either squeezed real tight for a few casts or tapped the blocks together with your sprue cutting mallet a few times. Verals makes the pins tight, which he mentions in the directions, and they need lube and a little time and effort to seat in. I have quite a few of them and they all cast perfect bullets exactly at the diameter I ordered.

+1, I to have a number of LBT molds, to lazy to go look, but at least a dozen or so. I have never had an issue. One note however, While you "should" have gotten printed instructions and a lube stick with your order, and usually, a printed catalog, I just recievd a mold from Veral, and the instructions were not there. You can e-mail him and he will send them out to you.
anyway, glad you got things worked out, your going to like those boolets :grin:
crash87

[Matabele]

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'll send Veral an email. I did buy the mold new dwight, although it was a good few years ago and Im only now getting round to using it. I think I remember at the time I ordered there was debate whether Veral was going to continue his business or was thinking about going from pure custom molds to standard offerings...dont quote me on that but maybe what with the "uncertainty" in his busines at the time the lube and instructions were left out.

Anyway in the absence of LBT lube I tried 2 stroke oil as was suggested in this thread, it sure helped to slick things up and the mold closed a lot easier too. However the boolits I cast after that were terrible...do you think I maybe contaminated the cavities? I tried casting for close on 2 hours, putting out close to 100 bullets hoping I would burn off the contamination but I didnt cast a single useable boolit the entire time. Is it a contamination thing or a messed up alloy?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s194/Tamboti/Raisinboolits.jpg

Also the boolits base is casting right at .431" which is perfect but the driving band seems a couple thou larger, and the boolit gets stuck in the cylinder. I understood the boolit should just hang up in the cylinder throats but be able to be pushed through using finger pressure, this right? As cast now these boolits are too tight to push throuhg using finger pressure (I sized the throats at .432" by slugging). Any advice here would be appreciated?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s194/Tamboti/LBTCylinderfit.jpg

[Bret4207]

That looks like a classic cold mould issue to me. Are you keeping the mould full of hot alloy or are you standing there with it empty looking at it and the boolits you just dropped, drinking coffee, playing with the radio, etc? And empty mould is a cooling mould.

Oil contamination will look sort of similar but the boolits will get better as you cast and the oil burns off. Again, it takes a hot mould to do this.

As far as size, you person "pushed through with light pressure" is anothers "could barely get them through the throat!". You may need to size them a thou' or your brass and chamber may force you to go 2 thou'. Personally I like the fit you have right now if the brass will let it chamber.

[PacMan]

You need to clean your mold real well.The lube has worked its way into the cavities. One of the reasons i prefer Verals lube on the pins.
Get some brake cleaner or somthing similar that does not leave a residue and clean the whole mold. I then take mine and mix dawn dish soap and water in a pan with enough to cover the mold halves when seperated about 1 inch and boil for a while.The mold will change color slightly but does no harm at all.
Spray it out with brake cleaner again,let dry and go to casting.

As far as dia. of the bullet you have not got good enough fill out yet to have an accurate measurment.
Dwight

[Matabele]

Thanks again for the feedback, great info! Bret initially I thought it was a cold mold but I made a point of not letting the mold cool to see if that was the issue.

Thanks dwight, I'll try your suggestion and give the mold a good clean out and try again...if anything Im getting some good practice!

[RobS]

If there was that much contamination due to the oil it would have shown more on the base of the boolits; they look filled out and square. It looks like this time around your mold was cooler. If you have any doubt then wash the mold with some dawn dishsoap and hot water and go at it again. Very, very little lube on a Q-tip to take care of those alignment pins and bottom of sprue plate.

[RobS]

Are you planning on sizing the boolits? If so then just size them at .431 and you're good to go. If you are pan lubing or alox tumble lubing then load up a dummy round and if they chamber don't worry about the other drive bands being a bit larger.

[Pat I.]

Before you drive yourself crazy or destroy the mould PM me your name and address and I'll mail you a stick of Veral's mould lube. Every time I've heard about someone having trouble with these moulds it's because they didn't lube it and follow the directions. Maybe Veral doesn't send lube and instructions every time which would explain it, I don't know.

There's a good chance you got oil in the cavities and that's your problem. Clean it like Dwight said and your problem should go away

Here's the lube points on the mould. To use the mould hold the front edge of it in the pot for about a 10 count. Next touch the side of the mould with the lube stick so a little melts on there. Continue to hold the mould in the pot until the lube on the side starts to smoke. Hold another few seconds and then touch the lube stick, just a slight touch is needed, to the lube points shown in the pictures below. Once that's done you should be casting good bullets or good bullets within a cast or two. I've used a lot of different moulds in my life and as far as getting good bullets with the least amount of effort nothing compares to an LBT, at least up to this point. Lubing the mould isn't a one time deal so keep that in mind. The thing's going to look like hell from the lube on it but it'll run good and last a long time.

As far as the bullet not sliding through the throats since you're going to be lubing it just lube it in a .430 or .431 die. If you're going to use tumble lube get a Lee sizer.

[RobS]

Before you drive yourself crazy or destroy the mould.

Are you serious.........................using the different mold lubes suggested is not going to destroy the mold as if that were the case Bullshop would have destroyed all his molds by now including his numerous LBT molds. Come on now, he is in the casting business and has used molds for thousands and thousands of boolits. Others here including me have used LBT molds with other mold lubes with no ill effects what so ever. It's about the application of the lubes that most have initial problems with, not the lube itself.

[Dale53]

The bullets pictured just above show the effects of oil contamination of the cavities. Use Dawn dish washing liquid and a used tooth brush and scrub the mould cavites vigorously. Rinse in very hot tap water and pat dry (I use facial tissue that does NOT have lotion in them to remove ALL of the water). Then, I pre-heat on a hot plate before casting.

The bullets should be sized before reloading. I suggest running through a .431 sizer. Shooting bullets "as cast" can work but it is VERY hard to maintain size as the slightest change in bullet alloy with make the bullet larger or smaller (more antimony makes them larger, less makes them smaller). Using WW's is common and good bullets can result. However, you really have no idea what their exact alloy content is. I use WW's all the time in my alloy but also size to a pre-determined size that works well for me.

If you are money limited, then pan lubing with a good bullet lube and running through a Lee loading press mounted sizing die is an excellent way process your bullets for a small outlay, if you cannot afford a lube/sizer at this time.

You WILL get his straightened out with persistence. Don't become discouraged.

I have a couple of LBT moulds and they cast extremely well for me.

Dale53

[Pat I.]

Are you serious.........................

Serious as a heart attack. I've never seen anyone suggest that someone drive the alignment pins in on an LBT mould but it was suggested and done here. People that use the moulds know the pins are tight from the outset and need a little time to seat in. As for using other mould lubes Veral makes the moulds and Veral recommends his mould lube. If using what the maker suggests as a lube on HIS moulds is being not serious I'm guilty as charged. I have or have had about 20 LBT moulds and never had a problem that required beating on them or using a different lube. Especially something as light as 2 stroke motor oil which is pretty much guaranteed to migrate to the cavities like what happened in this case.

[shagg]

looks like cold mold or your lead is too cold. i usually only see wrinkles the first few drops. i tend to cast 200+ at a timeso if i have a few wrinklers it leaves me with plenty of good ones.

just my .02

[RobS]

Pat I.

I respectfully disagree with your comment that only Veral's lube is the best for a LBT mold or for any mold for that matter. When I said "are you serious" you should have continued quoting my full response of "Are you serious.........................using the different mold lubes suggested is not going to destroy the mold as if that were the case Bullshop would have destroyed all his molds by now including his numerous LBT molds." I never once spoke about beating a mold with a hammer or anything of the like.

Quote it all if you are going to reference it.

Yes synthetic two cycle oil as well as Bullshop’s Bullplate lube is thinner and is the reason why the same amount used is entirely different vs Veral's. The thinner lube can and will migrate to the cavities if a person gets carried way. That doesn't mean the quality of lube isn't good, it means application was done incorrectly (way to much).

Do a search on Bullplate lube for yourself and find out what people think of it, even people who use Veral's LBT molds. Have you used Bullplate sprue/pin lube???..............I doubt it from the sounds of it.

I've used the LBT mold lube as the new mold I received from Veral had the directions and his little, thin lube sticks included. When I started using Bullplate I never even thought of using the LBT lube any longer. I will admit though that I did the same thing as the original poster and over applied the thinner lubricant as I was use to the LBT stuff and had to wash the mold and learned I only needed 1/4 of what I used the first go around.

[crash87]

Are you serious.........................using the different mold lubes suggested is not going to destroy the mold as if that were the case Bullshop would have destroyed all his molds by now including his numerous LBT molds. Come on now, he is in the casting business and has used molds for thousands and thousands of boolits. Others here including me have used LBT molds with other mold lubes with no ill effects what so ever. It's about the application of the lubes that most have initial problems with, not the lube itself.

Lighten up, Bobby, Matabele, It is always BEST, to do as the mold mfg. suggests. I know for a fact, LBT molds have a lifetime guarantee, IF, you follow the recomended instructions. Pat I. has it on the lube points, you can get the instructions from Veral for the asking. Any mfg. will have his own little caveats on mold prep, maintanence etc. When you feel you have become well versed in changing or tweaking something here or there, by all means do so. if you don't know when or if you have become well versed shoot an IM to RobS, I'm sure he could tell you.

[Pat I.]

Let's not turn this into a pissing contest. I have to assume people read your post before mine so didn't feel the need to attach the whole quote to my response. Personally I couldn't care less if someone wanted to use a mix of cow **** and sewer sludge as a lube for their moulds. I was trying to help out the original poster and give him something I KNOW works with knowledge gained by repeated personal experience.

Matabele if you want to use the lube recommended by the mould maker to lube your mould drop me a PM and I'll send you a stick like I said before.

[RobS]

Pat:
No pissing match at all; you give only one way of doing things which is your way of using LBT mold lube. Lee suggest to use their lube, beeswax/alox stick lube (not the liquid alox), for their molds too.................It can work as just about any bullet lube can work however many other people may very well choose a better route.

Never the less LBT lube does work and I can testify to it since I used it too. However if you have not used anything else that is proven to work then you have no room for comment that others advise will drive Metabelle crazy or destroy his mold. My experiences are two way here in that I've done both methods. Many here will state that Bullplate is a blessing to aluminum molds. I'll testify with personal experience that a good synthetic 2 cycle oil will work just as good as the LBT provided it is applied correctly and Bullplate works even better than anything else I've tried.

[Pat I.]

I have used Bullplate on other moulds but that's alright you're right I'm wrong and life goes on.

Matabele, Pound the allignment pins back in, open up the female allignment holes with a drill bit with sandpaper wrapped around it, use Bullplate or 2 stroke oil for lube and everything will be fine.

[HARRYMPOPE]

i agree with Pat I.Use Verals instructions and lube sticks that came with the mold and it works.I have never adjusted one of his mold alignment pins or sprue plates in 5 years.Verals system works and there is no reason to alter from it unless you are board or enjoy overcomplicating things.

HMP

[HARRYMPOPE]

I had one of his molds and I had to use a drill bit a touch smaller than the female socket and I wrapped the chuck end of the bit with dry/wet sand paper and spun it in the female socket until the male end (roll pin) would fit. I tried to tap the pins down but didn't have much luck with the LBT mold I had.

that one will get you on Veral's black list! <G>

HMP

[RobS]

that one will get you on Veral's black list! <G>

HMP

He would never be able to tell I used such a method as I only turned things enough by hand to take out the rough machine marks left over by the original drilling of the alignment holes (one socket in particular). Also the rollpins reseated into the aluminum holes afterwards anyway. Merely cleaning up and smoothing out what should have been right in the first place. Don't misunderstand me LBT molds are nice molds and I cast with the particluar 4 cavity mold I'm talking about for a long time with enjoyment. Other LBT molds I never had this problem with.

[RobS]

i agree with Pat I.Use Verals instructions and lube sticks that came with the mold and it works.I have never adjusted one of his mold alignment pins or sprue plates in 5 years.Verals system works and there is no reason to alter from it unless you are board or enjoy overcomplicating things.

HMP

I didn't say Veral's direction and lube didn't work as it does, I've even stated this if you read my posts. You for the past 5 years have not needed or wanted to try anything else which is fine, and it sounds like Pat with 20 LBT molds at one point or another througout the years hasn't varied either which is also fine. However neither of you should crawl down my back for doing it differently as there is no reference on your end to state otherwise. Heck even NOE a respective mold maker here on the forum provides a bottle of bullplate with each mold he sends out the door and I believe MiHec does the same. BRP another mold maker here also belives in Bullplate lube for his molds.

[PacMan]

Dogone guys.
After using Bullplate on my sprue plate and top of the mold i was really suprized how well it worked and use it now on all my LBT molds for that purpose.

When i lube the alignment pins i use Verals lube and Verals lube only.

I have never had a alignment problem or failure to close properly except the one time i tried to use a set of unmodified Saeco handles with them.

Diffrent strokes diffrent folks.
Dwight

[RobS]

Dogone guys.
After using Bullplate on my sprue plate and top of the mold i was really suprized how well it worked and use it now on all my LBT molds for that purpose.

When i lube the alignment pins i use Verals lube and Verals lube only.

I have never had a alignment problem or failure to close properly except the one time i tried to use a set of unmodified Saeco handles with them.

Diffrent strokes diffrent folks.
Dwight

Yep, and you've been there and done it. Your comments have good merit and you express that it is what you prefer not that it is an absolute and other means are only a sign of frustration and utter demise.

[Down South]

Not trying to enter any type of contest here. Any good Sprue plate lube will work. I prefer Bullplate, but the main thing is to get some good lube on the pins, sprue cutter and hinge. Keep the lube out of the cavities and you will be happy. The pictures that I saw were the result of a cold mould or oil contamination. Wash the mould well. Heat it properly and happy casting.

[HARRYMPOPE]

I didn't say Veral's direction and lube didn't work as it does, I've even stated this if you read my posts. You for the past 5 years have not needed or wanted to try anything else which is fine, and it sounds like Pat with 20 LBT molds at one point or another througout the years hasn't varied either which is also fine. However neither of you should crawl down my back for doing it differently as there is no reference on your end to state otherwise. Heck even NOE a respective mold maker here on the forum provides a bottle of bullplate with each mold he sends out the door and I believe MiHec does the same. BRP another mold maker here also belives in Bullplate lube for his molds.


LBT's are a different animal from other molds and the 6 i use from 22 -35 all work perfectly with LBT's instructions so why fight it?If its a Lee,heck break out the files,pliers and mold prep and go at it.
I just think one should use Verals very accurate instructions before buggering or tuning with one of his molds.Your methods probably work fine no doubt,but i haven't had to resort to them with LBT's anyhow.

Just my input and it if varied from yours that's the point of a forum.,we cant all agree.

HMP

[Matabele]

Wow just checked this thread again this morning and saw a heap of replies, thanks everyone for the input. I have scrubbed out the mold using dish washing liquid and will try casting again this afternoon, and see where we are.

Pat, thanks a lot for that offer, its appreciated. I sent you a PM.

Can I ask how many boolits do you guys generally cast before the mold gets up to heat and they fill out ok?

[Dale53]

I pre-heat ALL of my moulds including my LBT four cavity moulds. I preheat on a hotplate until the mould is just under casting temperature. One or two mould fulls and I am casting perfectly.

YMMV
Dale53

[crash87]

+1 on Dale53 post. This is one of the reasons I was sold on LBT molds, after trying my 1st one. Ease of casting perfect bullets in short order and Veral's attention to details, has...... "FOR ME" been a very good combination. Crash87

[Matabele]

Thanks for the replies. I took your advice and preheated the mold on a hot plate, then dipped the front corner into the molt for 10-15 seconds. After about 6 casts It was throwing perfect boolits...finally success! Cant wait to load these up and send a few downrange!

Thanks again for everyones help, I think I got this figured out now.

[PacMan]

One more tip.
Veral sugest this in his instructions for other molds but i applied it to his as well.
Take a sheet of 350 to 400 grit sand paper and using a piece of glass,i use the pane of my wifes spice cabinet, and smooth the bottom of the sprue plate by rubbing it in circles untill it is nice and shinney.Although his plates are near perfect i have found that this helps preserve the top of the mold and reduces the amount of lube needed.

Do not try to over tighten the sprue plate screw. Tighten untill it stops snugly.Any other plate adjustnment should be done with the hold down finger by slightly bending it up or down.

One of the secrets to his molds casting ability,i beleive, is the sprue plate design which gives max ventilation,so take care of it.
I also do a couple of other thing that comes to cleaning after each use but i will get flamed by the elite if i express it here.

I have other molds both comerical and custom and though they cast good i do not look forward to casting with them like i do the LBT's.

Send me your address and i have a copy of the instructions i will send.
Dwight