kept getting wrinkles

[jacob7]

This casting is very new to me. I got set up for the first run of bullets using brand new lyman 457125 45cal. mould. got the residue off heated the 10lb. pot up to 780 to 790 and fluxed. Pre heated the dipper and moulds. I was also using 20/1 lead. The first 6 or 7 had some wrinkles thought no big deal just the moulds warming up. After that things really started looking nice. Poured about 50 with a couple having a couple of little wrinkles.I was pleased. They look pretty but just ordered my scales to see how nice they really are. Now my problem. That was last week and decided to do it again today. I read in one of the books that temp. should be around 850. I thought I did everything the same except for that but couldn't get a cast to even come close. Dropped the temp. back down to 780 and still could not get anything to work. wrinkles on sides. in grooves and sometimes on top. I tried about 25 each way. I also tried to be consistant between each pour. Any thoughts on what happened the second time? One thing I did the second time halfway thru was drill the dipper hole out a little bigger. Need some help. Thanks

[Doby45]

Wrinkles = mold too cool or oil of some type in cavity

There is no reason to even try to get your alloy up to 850. 650-700 takes care of the alloy temp for me..

[onondaga]

Holding a pot at 850 will turn 20:1 into 20:0 in about an hour unless you are stirring and fluxing continuously. 650 is plenty hot to cast 20:1. I have no clue where you read 850 was good, but that is very wrong. Pure lead needs to be cast at the hottest temperature and I cast pure lead for soft muzzle loading round balls at 700. The wrinkles are related to oil in the mold or mold temperature. Are you really using a thermometer or guessing by some dial setting? The reason I ask is that I am a very experienced caster and I cannot cast with 850 degree metal no matter what I do. Bullets will come out horribly frosted then shrink to undersize as they cool no matter what temp the mold is.

I suggest you clean your mold with detergent only and nothing containing petroleum. If you just cant help yourself and must use a solvent, use acetone it has no petroleum, but it is not necessary.

Mold lubrication is difficult for beginners to grasp. Most beginners use 20X more lube than should be used. Microscopic amounts of lube in the pores of the metal of a mold cavity will cause wrinkling of bullets. Keep any lube low enough in quantity and far enough in distance from your mold cavities that NONE gets in there.

I have read that some casters cast into 6 cavity molds at alloy temperatures up to 800, but these are the same people that have to cool their molds frequently because they are unable to maintain a casting cadence that doesn't over heat their molds when the alloy is that hot.

Also, casting at 800 will cause bullet weight to go up as the pot level goes down unless you flux like a madman because so much tin turns into tin oxide on the top of your melt at 800.

Gary

[462]

I've come to the conclusion that moulds require a number of casting sessions before all the cutting oils, etc. are removed. Clean the mould, again, using Dawn dishsoap, a toothbrush and hot water, and dry. You may have to do this more than once.

Make sure the mould is up to temperature before casting -- perhaps a longer pre-heating time.

And, yes, turn down the pot's temperature.

Gary's a faster typer.

[BulletFactory]

How ling is the stream of lead between your mold and pot/ladle? If its too far, this could cause you an issue.

I have to cast at 850, or they wont fill out.

[Doby45]

I have to cast at 850, or they wont fill out.

If that is the case you have a problem somewhere else.

:popcorn:

[z4lunch]

I've come to the conclusion that moulds require a number of casting sessions before all the cutting oils, etc. are removed. Clean the mould, again, using Dawn dishsoap, a toothbrush and hot water, and dry. You may have to do this more than once.

Make sure the mould is up to temperature before casting -- perhaps a longer pre-heating time.

And, yes, turn down the pot's temperature.

Gary's a faster typer.

What he said... Had the exact same problem the other day with a mold I picked up at a gun show. Mold, hot lead ,right temp, but wrinkles... I scrubbed the mold in really hot water with Dawn and a clean toothbrush... Problem solved
Steve

[BulletFactory]

You're right, my alloy is junk. Don't know specifically what yet, but its no good.

[jacob7]

Thanks guys. Since I read your replies I checked on things. 2 things showed. I miss read Paul Matthews saying that pure lead takes 850 or more to mould but an alloy is much lower. Also after use I saw some residue from my spraying it with WD40 from last weeks session which he recomended to use. I must have not removed it all. I am using a thermometer. I appreciate the replies and advise. What do you all use to protect the mould from rust? I'll try the 650 to 700 next time and also scrub the heck out of the mould with soap and water tomorrow evening and try again. Thanks again

[plainsman456]

I wouldn't spray it with wd-40.
Just clean in hot water with dawn and dry real well before casting.

[462]

I don't know who Paul Matthews is nor what his casting credentials are, but I don't agree with his advise of applying WD-40 to a mould, nor the need to cast pure lead at an excessive 850-degrees.

[BulletFactory]

Just keep the molds away from moisture. You can lightly oil the handles. I've heard about people keeping them in a ziploc with those dry packs you'll find in vitamin bottles, and shoe stores.

[Doby45]

I keep mine in my wife's china cabinet. :)

[ColColt]

Long ago when I used to shoot with the North/South Skirmish Association I was casting large thumb sized mini balls weighing around 500 or so grains. It had a hollow base that was formed using a "cherry" and if you didn't have cherry and mold hot enough using pure lead, you'd cast 50-100 bullets with voids in the skirt and wrinkles. I cranked mine up to 800 or so in order to get things hot enough. I never used that temp with 44 or 45 bullets, however.

[sheriffoconee]

get the wrinkles out huh??? Flux with ****** maybe????

[HATCH]

when I am finish casting for a while I coat the mold is sprue plate lube and put them in a zip lock bag.
I store my molds inside my house, not in the shop.
The brass molds I keep in the shop but the rest are inside.

[jacob7]

The book is Loading the Black Powder rifle Cartridge by Paul A Matthews.
Thanks again guys.

[MtGun44]

Me too. Started at the corners of the eyes and is getting steadily worse. ;-)

Let me know if you find a cure.

Bill

[BulletFactory]

I havent tested it, but I suspect that filling the cavities with hot glue would keep them from rusting.

[mooman76]

Hot glue probably will keep the rust out but then you have the problem of getting all the glue out of the cavities.

[BulletFactory]

Actually it comes out readily, you can even shoot them using only a primer. I usually add a grain of powder though, makes it more fun. You can take out a pop can at 20 feet with one.

[Bret4207]

Once the mould is oil free I won't put any more on it. Store them in an ammo can with a desiccant or a zip lock. As far as other wrinkles- stop standing there looking at the just cast boolits with the mould empty! Everyone does this. An empty mould is a cooling mould. Pick up your casting tempo. The heat will come and the wrinkles will disappear.

I like Paul Mathews books, but some of his advice can be a little muddled in coming across. Seems like a heck of a nice guy though.

[bowenrd]

Hot glue will help keep the lead out.