who converts molds to hollow pts?

[tanstafl10]

I would like to get a mould of mine converted to a hollow point. In a past thread, I saw mention that BUCKSHOT does this. If interested please make contact.

My purpose is to use a HP cast in linotype for a varmint boolit. The idea (although not original) came to me when I purchased some HP boolits made out of monotype (their claim) and thought to use them as an expanding load for white tail. While testing on milk jugs filled with water, I found that they shattered rather than expanded and the velocity was not all that high (guessing 2000+). NOT good for deer, but then it reminded me of the Vmax I have been using... same terminal performance in the milk jug test.

SOOOO.... I changed my approach and thought to apply this fragmenting cast boolit to a 257 Roberts that I have and sometimes use for prairie dogs. You all know.. when given lemons, make lemonade!

That brings me to the need for a HP mould in 25 cal. I just watched one go for $176 on ebay, over my budget. I am trying to determine if I can afford this project or how long I will need to save my money to afford it.

Anyone interested?? Your help is appreciated.

[GLL]

BUCKSHOT is indeed the man you need to talk to !

Here is an example of a mould he modified for me. Outstanding design and workmanship ! :)

Jerry

http://www.fototime.com/BD88AD7A19EE4B9/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/FC1FBCABD1CE997/standard.jpg

[35remington]

Since you are requesting assistance, why don't you send him a PM rather than making him contact you?

[tanstafl10]

35REMINGTON,

will do that. i am new and do not know exact protocols yet. thanks

GLL,

looks great!, thanks for the testimonial. plan on contacting BUCKSHOT directly as 35REMINGTON suggests.

[OLPDon]

Buckshot when you HP mould do you drill press or lathe it and do you start drilling or boring through bullet cavity or outer face of mould? Also great looking job very clean & neet and and love the stop & adjustable depth on HP Pin well thought out. My guess would be outer face keep things from walking.
Don

[Buckshot]

http://www.fototime.com/2235C21F3A083BE/standard.jpg

Done thusly, with the bases out. Actually the first step is to figure out which centerdrill to use and how deep you can go with it. Just simply hold one block half in your palm and lay a centerdrill in the cavity to make sure what needs to clear, clears.

THEN when that is done it goes into the 4 jaw chuck and is indicated in as shown above. Actually I still do it this way but I last year I bought a TI with a 1" probe. This way I can reach deep in the cavity and run it close to the nose when setting up. This produces a hole most accurate with the pointy end of the bullet! With that zeroed and pulling the probe back to run on the base band, you might find it wiggling out a thou to a thou and a half.

http://www.fototime.com/2E52E1F832F7ACF/standard.jpg

This caused some great consternation early on (I was lost for a bit) until I realized that the cavities might not be bored EXACTLY half in each block, duh. AND that the cavity itself may NOT be on the same plane as the parting line (inner block face). This is also something that can keep boolits from just flopping out when the blocks are seperated.

So anyway, you must be sure that the block surfaces at either end are flush with each other. As you can see, the jaws at 1 and 7 o'clock straddle the parting line. If the blocks are different heights (which does happen) the jaws will want to push the high one down when you tighten them. Obviously this will have a tendancy to offset one cavity half, from the other.

You can mitigate this by using a lead shim between the jaw and the blocks and just snugging these jaws. The other 2 jaws may be fairly tight.

http://www.fototime.com/6684CE3056F7995/standard.jpg

The other option is to do it on a faceplate. The blocks are clamped into a precision grinding vise ( or something) which is clamped to the faceplate. The vice jaws are parallel to each other to .0002". The bed is flat to that measurement over it's length. In this case 5". The jaws and bed are perpendicular to each other when tightened, to less then .0007" measured at 5" above the bed.

All that means is that you can be confident that the setup is a magnitude more accurate then the blocks and cavities are to each other. The 4 jaw is faster and accurate enough, if the blocks are. The money I'm paid to HP a set of blocks is because of this. The setup. Once that's done everything else is stupid simple, and just drilling :-).

Do not get trapped by chasing tenths around. Dial it in to a half thou all around if possible. If the cavities are a thou out of round, how in holy Ned are you gonna cut that less then in half? You cannot so do NOT go buy a tenths reading TI (like I did) or at least not for doing this.

http://www.fototime.com/4F570981026E8CC/standard.jpg

Drilling the hole. Naturally you'd use the centerdrill first. As a final test before really removing any metal, run the tailstock up and advance the centerdrill until it touches the spinning nose in the blocks without snugging the quill clamp on the tailstock. I then look at the quill in the tailstock where it comes out of the casting. If you see any movement something isn't right. That's assuming the quill or the casting isn't worn out.

With a hole started by the centerdrill I use an aircraft extension bit to drill on through. Why an aircraft extension bit, you ask? Mainly because I have maybe 25 pounds of'em :-) They're also very nice bits. They're piloted for one thing, they're all split points and they also have double margins. Drills do not make round holes. Reamers do. However, good drill bits make sufficiently round holes. With double margins on each land, one leading as per normal and the other behind it on the other side of the land, the bit is better supported.

Finally, since they're 6" long but only 2" have flutes I can cut off the shank and use pieces of it for the HP pin itself. Also many of the drills have shanks that are hardened all the way to the end. Since they're all M-7 steel, they make good lathe turning tools themselves.

http://www.fototime.com/{683F1931-D645-4BE3-B12D-A1223582903A}/picture.JPG

In the photo above that silver thing in the toolholder is a mini toolblock I made, that holds 2 tools that were former drill shanks. They've been ground to the correct shape and then properly located so that I may advance the crossfeed and cut both the 'O' ring groove and the setscrew relief in a lube-sizer body at the same time.

So that's the way I HP a mould block. May not be the best way nor even the right way, but it works for me.

...................Buckshot

[tanstafl10]

Buckshot,

Now I am SURE I want the HP done. Just give me a chance to get the mold I want.

[OLPDon]

Ifen you had any doubt click on this link:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=10172&page=2

All I asked is if he heat treated swaging die:

Beside having talent he must have too much time on his hand's or some kind of time machine!!!!!
Buckshot thank's again for sharing all the above super informative information, I will keep the questions to you at a limit. Not wanting to take too much of your time. Okay one more question.

If you do have time machine how you make that one????????????

Don...................

[carpetman]

Buckshot--wouldn't you exprect an aircraft bit to be piloted?

[Buckshot]

Buckshot--wouldn't you exprect an aircraft bit to be piloted?

.............Ray, it's plain obvious to me that you sure don't need any of those brain excersizer programs they sell.

OLPDon, "............he must have too much time on his hand's or some kind of time machine!!!!!"

.............Nope, it's just stuff that fascinates me :-) It's obvious then that I think others might find it fascinating also, but probably a bit more tiresome in reality, heh, heh.

...............Buckshot