View Full Version : "Patched" REAL bullets?

11-29-2006, 09:37 PM
Anyone have any idea what these are?


11-29-2006, 10:39 PM
Rifling Engraved At Loading. The only patching I could think of would be a wad of some sort under the bullet.

11-30-2006, 12:23 AM
The real boolit is not meant to be patched---It is easy to load because of the small bearing surface and as Waksupi suggested maybe a small wad at base

11-30-2006, 06:14 AM
I was kind of think about the base wad thing. I didn't think you could get a "patch", even a paper one, around the REALs that I cast. Plus the REAL that I cast don't give me alot of problems with loading. Night try the wads on the base for giggles.

Thanks, Lefty

11-30-2006, 05:48 PM
I'm not sure you would want to even put a wad at the base. If you do make some accuracy tests without as well.

12-06-2006, 02:16 AM
maybe those poly patches, from awhile back, made for use behind rb's?? Some-1 might be trying them behind a REAL, though I can't think Y.

12-06-2006, 03:24 AM
I'm not sure you would want to even put a wad at the base. If you do make some accuracy tests without as well.

Most guys from what I have read on the net say a greased felt wad under the conicals maxi style and yea that includes REAL bullets increases accuracy. I have found that out to be true too. If the conicals engrave the rifleing like most of the maxi style do you would not want to patch them. If they were undersize and not hollow based or a mini then it might be feasable if you have a over size barrel.

12-06-2006, 07:28 PM
Thanks to a gentleman here, I picked up a 45cal Real 200gr mold from Lee.
I used a 444 Marlin case on a drill press to cut wads form old denum jeans.
Stick em to the bottom with a touch of lub, and accuracy did improve.
Funny note, on one target @ 25yds I thought I had pulled one, just outside the group.
Turned out to be the wad made it all the way to the paper and stuck to the target.

12-07-2006, 09:19 PM
I just thought the barrel was like my 45 cal Green Mountain barrel and the REAL would fall out if the muzzle was tipped down. Really oversized or both of my 45 cal REAL molds are undersized. Should never left my brother the TC barrel, it really liked the REAL boolet.

12-07-2006, 11:29 PM
The purpose of the base wad is to keep the base of the boolit from gettin' deformed by the hot powder gas. Probably a bigger problem with those who use FFFg, rather than FFg. [smilie=1:

12-08-2006, 06:10 PM
Me thinks the main reason for the improved groups with a wad is that the wad "holds" the powder for a more constant energy transfer to the bullet.

The one thing that MLing suffers from is constants. The more constant you are, from powder charge to lube amounts, the tighter your groups.


12-22-2006, 10:09 AM
A friend of mine uses a patch on just the base of a 54 REAL because the rifling on his gun was so deep and the bullet didn't completely seal. It came up the sides just a bit. It helped accuracy and he killed an elk with it, dropped in her tracks.


Larry Gibson
12-22-2006, 02:26 PM
I use both the 260 gr and the 330 gr REALs in a .50 cal TC Blk Mtn Magnum with aperture sights. I mostly use 777 FFFG. The lighter bullet is the plinker and velocity is kept to 1200 fps. The 330 makes for a nice hunter and I push them to 1590 fps with 4" groups at 100 yards for 6 shots (1st load + 5 speedloaders) without cleaning. I did use the pre lubed wonder wads but went to cutting my own out of felt and soaking them with my BP lube (5 parts Beeswax - 4 parts olive oil) by puting them in a baggie with the lube and then micro waving it until the lube is melted and soak into the wads. They stick to the bottom og the REAL and loading is easy. Accuracy is improved using the wads and also a higher velocity can be had with accuracy.

Larry Gibson

01-13-2007, 03:51 AM
Before I knew what to do with a bp. I cast a coffee can full of 300gr .54 REAL's out of hard pistol lead. Just about couldn't get them started.

Had the 'smith relief bore the muzzle so now they drop in flush and just push 'em on down. man they are accurate!
Being along at the range one day and having access to the silhoette shed. I set one up at every distance 25yds apart clear out to the ram at 200yds.
Off the bench & bags just to learn what the gun and load was capable of.

I knocked everyone of them over first shot except the ram. Took me six shots to hit it the first time. So that's too far.

But, when I went to gather the targets up I went to the ram and found a half dollar sized disk of lead. So that proved to me it still had enough power to do he JOB on game. IF it was just accurate that far out it'd be capable of the job. I won't shoot at game with it over 125yds or so because I just don't want to take a chance on wounding something. In 45 yrs of hunting I've never had a wounded animal yet, I sure don't want to start with this.

I know this is too hard to be shooting in a ML, but, there were too many and too much time involved to just melt 'em down and start over again. So I'm gradually shooting them up. IF I was going to hunt with it, I'd cast some out of soft lead. But, I feel confident in these doing whatever would be asked of them as is. They'd sure penetrate, that's for sure. Anything shot with a slug this big in dia. would be hit hard, that's for sure.

I went to .54 over a .50 because sometime I just might take it elk hunting with me. I go every year out here in CO.

I've never used anything on them except bore butter so far. The gun is a cheap CVA plastic stock 32" twist. Most of the bp shooting I do with it is at the four match's we have during the summer. That's RB's offhand and nothing over 75 yds. Most are 25yds or less at X's on papers, or hanging chains and such fun targets. Since changing to a white spot sights I've jumped from dead last to 2nd and 3rd out of 8-15 shooters. I just couldn't see the sights until someone told me to try a white spot. Man, that's the secret far as I'm concerned.

Wish you well,