Share Your Tip Of The Day

[jma1965]

When it comes to reloading and/or cast boolits, is there a tip of the day you would like to share ? I have one;

If and when you are reloading shot shells, no matter how tempted you are, don't stick your finger in the "wad guide".

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r223/jma2006_bucket/p-2836.jpg

[BulletFactory]

When pan lubing, heat the lube and bullets together, under the lowest temperature possible, until the bullets are the same temperature as the lube. Then let them cool naturally to room temperature. This will make the lube stay in the grooves when you remove the bullets from the cake.

[Shuz]

Float new,(unused) kitty litter on top of your melt when using a bottom pour furnace. This prevents air from reaching your melt and reduces the amount of melt oxidation.

[RP]

No matter how nice that boolit you just cast out of you brand new mold looks let it cool before you pick it up.

[selmerfan]

Spend $10 on a hot plate. Then ALWAYS use the hot plate to warm up your molds, more consistent preheat, no rejects when you start. When using any powder charge with which a double charge is possible, always charge case and immediately seat the bullet. Never sweep your casting/reloading bench off to clean up lead drips, chips, and small particles, then immediately dump them into a melt. The possibility of minute particles of gun powder or even a stray live primer can be a terrible surprise. Keep the sweeping in a can, heat them up on top of a cold pot.

[Ohio Rusty]

When you go to the doctor, He uses the little plastic funnels over the device he looks in your ear with. Ask the Doctor for some. Those plastic funnels, with tiny hole end cut off, they become the perfect powder funnel for cases with small necks, .... from .38 special all the way down to .22 hornet. You just trim the opening the size you need it and stick it in the end of the case and pour your powder in. No more spills !!

Ohio Rusty ><>

[BulletFactory]

I use one of those, only slightly different. I got a 1/2"(?) clear hose, found one to slide inside that one for a step, trimmed the funnel to fit, and use it for a drop tube. A 3/4" electrical conduit end has the same threads as the press, so I was able to cut the threaded section off for a spacer. Slide the tube into the spacer, and its easily adjustable. When Im done , it just sits neatly in the top of the powder die. The threaded colar stays in the press under the measure. The Lyman 55 is in a turret press, and I can just charge one right after the other with the bullets still in the tray. Describing this simple item is difficult, so Maybe this will help. I can charge a tray of 50 in about a minute and a half, stays within a tenth of a grain.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/stainless1911/scan0001-2.jpg

[Ole]

When pan lubing, leave an empty row and and empty column down the middle of your pan.

When you drop your cake, use the empty space to cut the cake into 4 smaller cakes.

4 small cakes are much easier to deal with and you'll be less likely to disturb your bullets/pull lube out of the grooves until you punch them out of the cake.

[TCFAN]

If you need a crimp die for the 44 mag. and don't want to use a Lee carbide factory crimp die, buy a Lee 44-40 rifle factory crimp die. It does not have the carbide ring. I find that it works perfect for the 44mag. when using boolits that are sized .432...............Terry

[captaint]

I'm with selmerfan here - get a hot plate and use it. Saves a lot of grief... So simple. enjoy Mike

[Bulltipper]

If it looks like a bear but smells like a woman, run like hell.

[*Paladin*]

Don't try to seat a bullet with a Lee FCD. Did this one by accident the other day...

[Blammer]

no matter how great it sounds don't put kitty litter on the top of your lead in a bottom pour pot. It just makes a mess.

[geargnasher]

When it comes to moving lead, wheels are your friend.

Gear

[waksupi]

no matter how great it sounds don't put kitty litter on the top of your lead in a bottom pour pot. It just makes a mess.


Explain that one, DJ., I use it all the time, and it is no mess.

[nes4ever69]

if something doesnt look right on a powder charge, dump it out and re-do it.

[steg]

Once I get a die set up, belling, seating, I'll take my verniers and measure from the top of the adjusting screw to the top of the die, and from the top of the die to the locking ring. and record this right along with the load. This saves alot of time and frustration when your setting up for a different boolit, or have to take the die apart to clean the excess lube out of it.......................steg

P.S. I thought this thread would just keep going on and on, we could really share alot of info on this one.................steg

[MT Gianni]

P.S. I thought this thread would just keep going on and on, we could really share alot of info on this one.................steg
I was thinking it should be merged with the top 10 casting tips from 2010?

[Trey45]

About the only tip I have for anyone is keep yourself away from distractions. Reloading is serious business, think about the pressures that cartridge is operating under, and how close it is to your extremities when it lights off. One little mistake, one little distraction can cause a catastrophic event. Blown up guns, loss of fingers, vision, even death can occur. Be safe. Be aware.

[Charlie Two Tracks]

Screw your casting pot to SOMETHING. I have my bottom pour held in place with four screws through the bottom of the setup. I could just see myself catching part of it with a shirt sleeve and dumping it all over.

[Jim]

Do not confuse WC 860, WC 820 and/ or WC 680 with each other.

[hedgehorn]

Good information. I wish I had something to share

[wmitty]

Size and seat your gas checks with a Lee push thru die - then heat treat 'em in the

oven...

finally, use a .001 or .002" larger die in your lube sizer to lube the boolets. This will

save a broken handle on the lube sizer.

[462]

When pouring lube into a lubrisizer in which all traces of the previous lube have been removed, be sure to install and tighten down a sizing die. Floors and cabinets function as designed without the application of boolit lube.

[oscarflytyer]

small tip when using set screws that I use on all my die lock rings, etc.

Put a single piece of lead shot under the set screw. It will mash down and hold things very secure, while also saving the threads of the screw you are trying to set.

[1Shirt]

Check the first few primers in a lee hand priming tool. It is real easy to have one or two that are frist in line be upside down. Removing upside down primers is something I really do not enjoy, and do it very carefuly.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[XWrench3]

if you want to shim your dies up to seat and crimp in two opperations, the secondary clutch shims for a yamaha snowmobile (all yamaha fazer (pz480) and late 1990's v max 500 - 600 snowmobiles) work perfectly. just add until you get the correct depth. they also make them in different thicknesses. i wish i had a part number, but i got rid of all that stuff when i quit working on them.

[Shuz]

A neat trick to wipe lube from the bases of boolits:
Take a 2x4 about 9" long and stretch one of your "holy" socks over it and then staple it to the 2X4. When it gets dirty turn it inside out and start over. Sure gets rid of holy socks that never really do get mended!
Just make sure the sock is stretched as tight as you can get it so that when you wipe the base of the boolit, the sock doesn't move on the board.

[Kskybroom]

A Shell Holder Works Great In a Hammer Type Boolit Puller ??

[Huntducks]

Don't stick you finger in the hot lead

[hiram]

If you have a stripped (slightly rounded) allen screw socket, try a metric allen wrench. It might be just slightly larger, fit, and be able to grip the socket.

[22to45]

I mix 45-45-10 tumble lube in a 10 dollar blender... Worked like a hot damn..
Oh, and melt dry lead...

[oldfart1956]

The first time you try pan-lubing cover yourself and the whole house in plastic. Elbow length gloves, shower-cap, disposable apron, etc. Remember to cover the toilet seat&handle. And yer sneakers. And the kitchen....allll the kitchen. Audie...the Oldfart..

[lonewelder]

Look up a new load once,close the book and look it up again.Chances of reading it wrong twice are less and you might remember it.

[*Paladin*]

Look up a new load once,close the book and look it up again.Chances of reading it wrong twice are less and you might remember it.

Good point! When I first started to load for my .270 Win, I found a .270 Win load in my Hornady book, and fortunately, before dropped a charge into a case I noticed I was actually looking at data for .270 WSM. Always pays to check and recheck the data before loading.

[Catshooter]

I had a Lyman mould. Someone had dropped it, dinged the corner of boolit base on one half. I closed the mould in a vise over progressivley larger pin gauges until the corner was ironed back to where it used to be.

Casts a complete base now, works great.


Cat

[Centaur 1]

If you have a stripped (slightly rounded) allen screw socket, try a metric allen wrench. It might be just slightly larger, fit, and be able to grip the socket.

I'll add to this one, take the allen wrench and plunge the end straight into the grinding wheel on a bench grinder. It'll not only expose new un-rounded hex, but leave the burr on the wrench that the grinding wheel created. That burr adds to the wrench size, get a large enough burr that you have to tap the wrencch into the socket head. If you're lucky it will grip the screw just enough to break it loose so you can replace it.


Here's a tip that I learned here and just tried today. I took a small piece of rag about 2" square and I rubbed a small amout of case lube to it. I placed my cases into a small container with the rag, and I shook the container as if I was tumble lubing. The rag transfered an undetectable amount of lube to the cases. Even though my pistol dies are carbide this worked great, the press was so much smoother and easier to operate.

[BulletFactory]

I did something similar. Took a sponge and cut into 3/4 inch cubes, oiled them, then put them between two pieces of towel to blot the excess oil from them. Then toss them into a rock tumbler with the cases for about 5 minutes. Oils the cases lightly, but not enough to get oil inside the cases or primer pockets.

[chajohnson]

When casting in the summer, don't wipe sweat from your brow with the same hand you pick up your ingots for adding to the pot. It can really get your attention. BTW, I wear a full face shield when casting, thank goodness.

[Chicken Thief]

If you have a stripped (slightly rounded) allen screw socket, try a metric allen wrench. It might be just slightly larger, fit, and be able to grip the socket.

Or try a Torx bit!
Round off the bottom corners if the fit is very tight.
Tap in and unscrew carefully.

[DIRT Farmer]

Keep a sharpie by the loading press. You can write the load info on the side of the case when working up new loads. Enter what works in the loading log.

[Casting Timmy]

Don't use the set screw on your Lyman Lubrisizer as it damages the top punches, just use some boolit lube.

Unfortunately it seems like nothing works out right the first time, take a deep breath or walk away from it and you'll do better next time.

[Stoats]

When loading cast rifle bullets that need to be crimped, seat and crimp separately. This minimises damage to the bullets.

Plus, Lee factory crimp dies will successfully take off even a fairly substantial bell on the case mouth.

[selmerfan]

When doing load work up, do one of two things. Either take each batch of 4 or 5 loads and keep it separate with a post-it note in a ziploc, or write down your loads, 1 through 10, then mark your loading blocks with corresponding numbers. When you seat each round, mark the number on the case with a sharpie. This way, when you take the loading block to the range and tip it over, you know what loads were what instead of having to pull the bullets and start over again. Ask me how I know...

[Calamity Jake]

Keep a sharpie by the loading press. You can write the load info on the side of the case when working up new loads. Enter what works in the loading log.

You can also use different colors to identify different loads of the same caliber during load testing, i.e. 50 rounds in ammo box,
10 rounds of 5 different loads, each has a different color on boolit or primer depending which end you have up in the box.

[Stoats]

Most factory cast bullets are:

1. Too small of diameter
2. Too hard
3. Lubricated with too hard a lubricant

but you might get lucky...

[jma1965]

When using a Lee Load All II and you need to change your powder or shot bushings, a empty 12 gauge shell can be inserted over the baffles by twisting it back and forward while gently pushing down. Then work your charge bar back and forward until the bushings are empty.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r223/jma2006_bucket/SDC10896.jpg

[161]

I've been picking up WW after my rotator surgery. Everyone wanted to carry the buckets to the truck for me. When you go WW hunting put you arm in a sling.:grin:[smilie=2:[smilie=1:

[Longwood]

I have no Idea if this helps or not but I see shooters doing it now and then.
If you shoot competitively, always orient reloaded rounds in the chamber the exact same way. To make it simple, I put a dot with a sharpie at the same spot on each case each time I reload it.

[Ole]

Empty pop and beer cans make excellent large ingot molds.

They hold 8-9#, depending on how full you get them and alloy.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/Ole1830/Bullet%20making/IMG_5442.jpg

MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM 100% DRY BEFORE FILLING

I cut the top off with a can opener to make filling easier and to check for moisture.

[BulletFactory]

Lee hardness tester with a mini maglite solitaire, attatched with a hose clamp.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/xx294/stainless1911/scan0002.jpg

[2manygunz]

Plan ahead. I was faced with serious physical restrictions due to scheduled surgery. If I had cast a bunch of the correct boolits, I could be loading now, instead of kicking myself.

[firefly1957]

ONLY one powder on the bench at a time.

[Catshooter]

When I plug in the Lee to get the lead melted, I also plug the hotplate (with the mould on top of it) for pre-heat.

Almost allways, the very first boolit is a keeper when I do that.


Cat

[lino]

Don't have a lead thermometer? Go to the local newspaper office and get scraps of newsprint that haven't been inked. Cut pieces 3" x 5" and fold a piece in 3rds the long way. BE SURE THE PAPER IS COMPLETELY DRY. Dip the first inch of the folded piece in your melt. In and out - submerge that inch for only a second. If the paper comes out golden brown, like toast, the temp is right for casting. I cast literally tons of lead into the moulds that made the pictures for newspapers years ago. The method really works.

[RP]

I use a lot of the blue painters tape I Have more then one lyman 55 mounted side by side so this is what I do. I label the powder type along with the powder charge on the tube off to the side of it so I can also keep a eye on powder level. I also use it on my lee auto drops and but all the data on it like cal disc bullet weight. When I am done I just peel it off and stick it to my powder cabinet then I can reuse it. Or stick it to the loaded box of ammo.

Another tip I just saw here and I think its a good one is using shotgun boxes to store 5.56 in on stripper clips. He even painted the boxes and labeled them. Having a few guns that use this round and fighting for a way to store it this is one tip I will have to try out.

[GH1]

Lately I've started using Hornady One Shot case lube with my carbide .357 dies. It greatly reduces sizing effort, and it's neat and easy to use.

[Sprue]

I quit using One Shot, had too many stuck cases. I use a home brew which I've never had a stuck case. 4 parts (red Bottle) Iso-heet to 1 part liquid Lanolin. Apply with small spray bottle. If you use this recipe, test it out (bottle) with a small portion. It will eat thru some plastics. If you want 99% alcohol here it is.

[mpmarty]

+1 On only one can of powder on the bench at a time.

[badbob454]

load 50 cases with powder at a time and use a flashlight to see inside every case to make sure each powder level is visually the same before seating boolits / bullets ... it has saved me from double charges and missed cases , on my single stage press

[Stoats]

load 50 cases with powder at a time and use a flashlight to see inside every case to make sure each powder level is visually the same before seating boolits / bullets ... it has saved me from double charges and missed cases , on my single stage press

alternative:

bullet gets seated directly after powder is put in, which results in never having a case with powder on the loading tray: they are either empty and primed, or with a bullet seated.

[skeet1]

When fluxing with saw dust, when it starts to smoke on top of the melt, light the saw dust with a grill lighter with a long extention just like you used to do when using bullet lube for flux. This will eliminate most of the smoke. When the flame goes out you can stir in the carbon ash as normal. This has worked very well for me.

Ken

[white eagle]

look both ways before you cross the street

[Chicken Thief]

Never fry bacon without a shirt on

[BulletFactory]

Please stay on topic.

[badbob454]

ONLY one powder on the bench at a time.

also ... mark your powder if you put it in a seperate tub , for lee powderdipping .and always put it back after casting, in the appropriate container .this will avoid powder mixups

[GNILOP]

[smilie=b:
Mixed up some Alox & Jhonson paste wax for tumble lube but can't see in those little bottles how much is left, so got a glass soap dispenser with the plunger on top and pored in the mix with a little extra mineral spirits to keep it liquid and just squirt the top a few times when needed and take maybe a extra day to dry after tumble.
G. Poing NE Ohio - Damn rain!

[LEALLC]

For those of you that use RED DOT. Use PROMO it is cheaper and has the same burn rate as RED DOT

[Molly]

When you're done sizing and lubing, leave a bullet all the way down. Stops lube from weeping out from residual pressure. Best way I know. Even reversing the ratchet a few turns won't always prevent weeping and a mess. Leaving a bullet down forms a perfect seal.

[koehlerrk]

Rick's tips:

1. Have a well-lit loading bench.
2. Keep your bench clean.
3. Do not cast or reload with distractions.
4. Do not cast or reload when you are tired.
5. Check the charge weight twice. Preferrably in two different manuals.
6. Write everything down.
7. Wear safety glasses when seating primers.
8. Wear a full-face shield when casting.
9. Cast bullets with good ventilation.
10. Wash your hands after handling lead. Then, wash them again. I use the mechanics' soap with the pumice in it, works well. The bottle also has a brush for cleaning under your fingernails.

[Longwood]

Don't buy used molds off of ebay unless you know how to fix someones MESS.
I now know what they mean when they say "May show signs of cosmetic wear".

[justingrosche]

If you use Gorilla glue to re-attach your mold handles back on, only use a very little bit. It expands. A lot. I almost glued a set of Lee handles permanently to my bench.
Not my most brilliant moment.

[BulletFactory]

lol, epoxy works well for that.

If you remove the little nail in the mold handles at that time, it won't get hot and burn you anymore.

[Suo Gan]

When swaping or putting a pair of handles on your mold, its best to do it over a counter so I does not fall on the concrete floor, doh!

An old omelette maker makes an excellent mold for rendered lead.

A goldenrod works good for keeping condensation out of the mold cabinet.

Lable your ingots with their content, you will eventually forget.

Get a light set of safety glasses so that you will be more tempted to use them. Are you really wearing a full face mask? Really? Really, really? Color me careless then.

Use a router speed control unit on your lube heater.

RTV on those broken or loose mold handles.

Filing cabinets make for much needed drawer space in the garage. This makes dandy storage for your lava collecting suit when not casting, lol.

Save your pennies for a year and GET that hardness tester.

If you put more money into a hobby than it returns, keep up the good work!

[BulletFactory]

slightly OT, but the file cabinets reminded me.

Use file cabinet and file folders to organize and sort your sandpaper.

[gew98]

If you put more money into a hobby than it returns, keep up the good work!

Man... that hit home !.

[MT Gianni]

While using my Lee turret press I had too many necks split while belling them. I was working with old 45 acp brass. At the cost of primers today 1 out of 100 is too many. I went to priming after belling rather than after de-priming and sizing.

[geargnasher]

MTG, if you use the aforementioned full-face shield you should have no problem gently decapping those good live ones and reusing them. I do it frequently when I have faux pas on the progressives.

Gear

[MT Gianni]

Gear I can't keep a face shield clean enough to see through for 5 minutes. Steam over or a few hours in the shop and they are too scratched to view through. I'll have to try again.

[Molly]

When you get a supply of misc lead & wheelweights that is too large to melt into one batch, heres how you can still have a perfectly uniform alloy over the entire supply of lead.

Best to do this outdoors. Melt enough to fill your pot, fluxing and cleaning off tire clips as you go. Also remove any wheelweight that doesn't have a clip (stick-on's) or doesn't want to melt into the rest easily (probably zinc). When the pot is full, pour it off into ingots of whatever size you find convenient, and get started on another pot. While the next pot is melting, take a hammer and punch, and put a prominent punch mark on every ingot you just cast.

Then put two punch marks on the next set of ingots, three punch marks on the next set of ingots, and so on.

When you're ready to cast bullets, put one ingot in the pot from each set. IE, an ingot with one punch mark, an ingot with two punch marks, an ingot with three punch marks, and so on. This will let you keep a uniform alloy composition over a very large volume of castings.

If you're smart and have a computer (that's ALL of us!) and have a small weight scale (if you don't, GET one!), you can weigh what's going into the current batch and keep a record of what is in it. For example;

The batch with one, two and three punch marks are all unmodified clip-on wheelweights.
The four punch batch has 2.75 pounds of linotype from Sam, and 7.25 pounds of clip-on wheelweights.
The five punch batch is 6 pounds of sheet lead and four pounds of linotype ... (And so on.)

You will find this record very valuable for calculating the composition of your alloy, or identifying batches for special use.

[lead-1]

I used a face shield when grinding on welds and a lot of times the fine dirt and grindings were attracted to the shield from built up static. I would use anti static spray on my shield inside and out and it seemed to make a shield last a lot longer. I think that most of the scratches come from stuff sticking to the shield and wiping it off, if it don't stick then you don't have to wipe it off as often.
I get this stuff from Wal-mart, they have small travel size cans for a buck and it goes a long way, spray it on and wipe it off with a soft rag, works on powder hoppers and dippers also.

http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0/140/c/AAAACxPmS7gAAAAAAUDGnw.jpg?v=1301717089000

[geargnasher]

Good tip! A welder friend of mine has at least two of every kind of PPE there is, and he told me emphatically once that the FIRST thing you EVER do before cleaning a lens is to rinse the grit off of it with running water, THEN you can wipe it. It stuck with me. He always kept an extra helmet on the drying rack next to his sink.

Molly, I just went through the same thing, alloying 350 lbs of miscl. stuff in one batch by dividing about ten different batches of ingots and various items into equally proportioned piles that would each fit into my smelting pot. It took seven batches, but it all came out about the same.

Gear

[bxchef29]

not a bad idea to have your lead levels check one in a while

[dale2242]

After cleaning brass by the citric acid method, rinse the brass several times, shake the excess water from the cases and dry them in your food dehydrator on a low setting. Got the idea from a friend. It`s so simple, I should have thought of it....dale

[9.3X62AL]

Off-topic warning.......my good tip for the day is to refrain from doing pub crawls with step-daughter (23) and her prime enabler--my wife/her Mom Marie. Very foolish, and hangover was DOGMATIC.

[armprairie]

Oh, It's [U]five[U] grains to the mark!
When using the old beam type scales (like I'll use till my dying day), look, then look again at the marks on your scale. Make sure your cipherin' the way the scale makers intended (sorry to use big words). Make sure everything is sitting squarely in the bottom of the vees. A little grit in the wrong place can raise heck with your day. Be as careful with that little jewel as you would your own eyeball.

[Longwood]

I used a motor and foot pedal from a sewing machine that I bought for $10 at a thrift store to make a powered case trimmer.

[SlippShodd]

Don't try to seat a bullet with a Lee FCD. Did this one by accident the other day...

Similarly, don't try to seat your lovely cast boolit in the powder stage of a Dillon. Got distracted and swaged it right into the bottom of a .38 Special case. Dang near broke the handle off the boolit puller getting it out. Interesting looking critter now...

mike

[Longwood]

Don't be lazy and use acronyms and or abbreviations if you want people to understand what you are typing.

[BulletFactory]

.lol.

[Chicken Thief]

I wear contacts and use the small containers to mix epoxy glue in.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/R0010454.jpg

[Longwood]

Those snot suckers, AKA nasal irrigator thingies, they sell in the baby departments work great to blow those flakes of powder that you can't get to, out of the recesses of your press.

[BulletFactory]

I wanted to clean up some brass, and since my rock tumbler only holds 50 at a time, I decided to toss some of them in with the laundry just to see how they came out. I added 3 or 4 cups of vinegar to the wash, and then tossed them into the dryer. I used all of the smaller articles of clothing, hand towels, socks, that sort of thing to help scrub the brass. To my great suprise and delight, the brass came out just like brand new. Seriously, they looked like you had hand polished them with brasso!

Toss them in the dryer as you are leaving the house, 1,000 brass casings in the dryer is LOUD!

[Longwood]

When you wake up in the middle of the night and stumble into the bathroom, half asleep for some Maalox,,,, turn on the light.
Why?
Because hand lotion tastes nasty!

[BulletFactory]

My mom told me about a co worker who had mistaken her eye drops for super glue. I still get a little bit ill when I think of that.

[DrB]

I wanted to clean up some brass, and since my rock tumbler only holds 50 at a time, I decided to toss some of them in with the laundry just to see how they came out. I added 3 or 4 cups of vinegar to the wash, and then tossed them into the dryer. I used all of the smaller articles of clothing, hand towels, socks, that sort of thing to help scrub the brass. To my great suprise and delight, the brass came out just like brand new. Seriously, they looked like you had hand polished them with brasso!

Toss them in the dryer as you are leaving the house, 1,000 brass casings in the dryer is LOUD!

Where do all the girlfriends and wives direct their hate mail for that one?[smilie=l:

[Longwood]

My mom told me about a co worker who had mistaken her eye drops for super glue. I still get a little bit ill when I think of that.

I know a guy that put ear wax remover drops in his eye.
As a matter of fact, he did it at my house.
I once got some MEK in one of my eyes.

[BulletFactory]

ouch. Brake cleaner aint no fun either.

[JMtoolman]

I put a short length of masking tape on my scale, and use a pen to write the load I am weighting on it in pen. It is a constant reference while I am weighing each load. I can cross it out and add a new weight and powder number, as loads change. When the tape is full of numbers crossed out, I peel it off and add a new clean piece. It's a good reference if you want to rember the last load you used. The toolman

[BulletFactory]

I do that, but I put it on the measure. Shows where its set, and what powder Im using.

[Molly]

I do that, but I put it on the measure. Shows where its set, and what powder Im using.

Me too. I stick a white label on the plastic column that reminds me of what my Dillon is set up for, powder charge, caliber and bullet.

I've reaches the stage where I have an absolutely perfect and infallible memory as long as everything is written down. (VBG)

[Molly]

I know a guy that put ear wax remover drops in his eye. As a matter of fact, he did it at my house. I once got some MEK in one of my eyes.

My wife offered to put some eyedrops in my eye not too long ago, and picked up a window cleaner by mistake. MAN! It's mostly just an isopropanol solution, but that alcohol BURNS!!!

I was working in a paint lab and the line to a spray gun being cleaned with solvent ruptured, soaking me down with xylene from head to foot. Eyes too, and other places as well. I ain't NEVER gonna laugh at no turpentined cat!

[whisler]

Molly: did you work in a paint lab in Cincinnati and if so which one? I was a paint chemist in Cincinnati for 35+ years.

[BulletFactory]

At least you were clean.

[kbstenberg]

I have a question.
Say you load for 3006 an you use 5 different bullets. How do you mark the seating die when you put it away for a while for the bullet it is set for?
Kevin

[geargnasher]

KB, make dummy rounds and use them to set the die for each.

Gear

[Mohavedog]

After cleaning brass by the citric acid method, rinse the brass several times, shake the excess water from the cases and dry them in your food dehydrator on a low setting. Got the idea from a friend. It`s so simple, I should have thought of it....dale


Hi all -
I want to emphasize the rinsing of brass after citric acid dip. I didn't rinse (just dried) and after vibrating the brass I had severe black stains (walnut media) that refused to polish out.
This was the first time I used citric acid and hadn't seen any advice to rinse. So if I missed it and this is common knowledge please forgive.....Mohavedog.

[BulletFactory]

Why not use citric acid, vinegar, or ammonia? Ive heard its bad, but why?

[Catshooter]

I load dummy rounds for all my various ammo. I also cut in half (lengthwise) a case for each caliber. These help the see how deep the boolit is going to seat and such like.


Cat

[Molly]

Molly: did you work in a paint lab in Cincinnati and if so which one? I was a paint chemist in Cincinnati for 35+ years.

Hi Whisler,

No, not in Cincy, though I've worked in other labs here. My paint lab experience was first in Atlanta, GA, and then in the PPG research labs in Pittsburgh, and covered about 35 years.

[Ecramer]

This is my first post on the forum, and I'm learning a lot, even though I've been casting for a number of years.

I used to use a variation on using the washer/dryer to polish my cases. At Wally World you can buy big plastic containers shaped like pickle jars. Fill those half full of walnut media, throw in your brass (and Brasso if you use it) and put it in the dryer with the heat setting on "air." When you're done, separate the media and load the shiny cartridges.

I might add that I'm a bachelor, and no women were harmed in the performance of this experiment -- and also that it makes a lot of noise. I'd start the dryer and then go somewhere else and have a beer until it was done.

[oldgeezershooter]

How about wrapping the jar in a couple of towels to quieten it down?

[Ecramer]

It still makes a pretty tremendous thumping noise, but that does help some. What's really critical is to observe the rotation of the dryer, and don't put the jar in so that the rotation unscrews the top.

[BulletFactory]

Just find a jar with left hand threads.

[blackthorn]

To use a dryer to polish brass---place brass in closed container with polishing media (two and a half gallon bucket). Place container in the center of the dryer drum and pack in three or four rolled-up sleeping bags to hold it in place. Turn on dryer (cold air setting) and go have a beer (or two).

[Chicken Thief]

I have a question.
Say you load for 3006 an you use 5 different bullets. How do you mark the seating die when you put it away for a while for the bullet it is set for?
Kevin

Easy ;)
Use a caliper like this:
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/R0010466.jpg
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm153/Chickenthief/Skydning/R0010467.jpg

[steg]

Chicken Thief, I do the same thing, never moving the stop, only I take all my measurements from the stop, either way it's very accurate and repeatable.................steg

After looking at your pics again, I like your way better, but going from the stop ring is still necessary to set the crimp....................

[BulletFactory]

Go shooting in a driving rain, no bugs.

[Tinbullet]

Here is how I cut my tumbler time in half. When I use the cover and clamp it down against the bowl the tumbling action is slowed by about 50%. To speed the tumbler up I placed a double nut on the tumbler shaft to position the cover just above the bowl. Then I clamp the cover against the double nut. This allows the tumbler to run at top speed and still keep most of the tumbler dust in the bowl.

[RKJ]

Here's something I've used for depriming .223 cases and should work for others. Walmart (or any grocery store) sell Vegetable oil spray for cooking at $1.00 a can. I figured I'd try it and other than being messy (and slow to dry although it does dry overnight and isn't bad then) it works great as a case lube. I've got a bunch of military brass that needs deprimed and crimp removed so after depriming I run them through the cleaner. The resizing die keeps a good portion on it so you can get away with not spraying all of them with it, but be careful trying that. :)

[Wally]

If you reload or lube/size over a concrete floor---put a cheap throw rug beneath your feet---should you drop anything---it will prevent any damage. Best to use one that is a light color..easier to find things that you've dropped.

[Tinbullet]

I have read about all kinds of things that boolit casters use to keep air from getting to the melt. I have really good luck just placing a folded up piece of tin foil, 3 to 4 layers thick, over my Lee 20 lb pot. It keeps the air off the melt and I just lift it off if want add sprus back or whatever.

[metweezer]

To ensure that you don't get any zinc in your lead molten pot just get an accurate thermometer. Lead melts at 621.5 degrees F and zinc melts at 787.15 degrees F. So if you keep your pot temperature at 650 degrees or so you will have molten lead and solid zinc and steel that can just be scooped up and removed. [smilie=s:

[treadhead1952]

When using a tumbler or vibrating case cleaner, put a used dryer sheet cut into strips in with the brass and media. It helps to trap the fine dust as well as adds a bit of shine to the cases over what the media does. Also look for Lizard Bedding in Petsmart, a 25 pound bag is way cheaper than what you pay for Media in the gun shops and if you get the fine stuff, you don't have to clean it out of the primer pockets like you do regular Media.

[Molly]

If you like the RCBS 'Lil Dandy" rotary powder measure like so many of us do, you either are or will be frustrated at the inability to throw the exact powder charge you want at times. There are two ways to deal with this:

1. Divide your powder charge into smaller portions and look for a rotor that will throw that. For example, suppose you want to throw 12 grains of Bullseye, but don't have #21 rotor. Take a look at throwing a double charge of #11 rotor (6 grains) or 4 charges of #3 rotor (3 grains) to get the same total charge. Of course, this requires some care to avoid an overcharge, but it should be safe enough if you can reliably count to four.

2. Select a rotor that throws MORE of your chosen powder than you want. Mix up some two component epoxy and put a few drops into the caviity to reduce the volume. Use plenty, because now you insert a drill bit into the cavity and rotate it by hand to remove just a bit of the cured epoxy. Test the powder weight. Continue until it's throwing the charge you want. Then file off the factory marking and mark its new setting with a scribe.

[mule47]

When shooting moon clips of .40S&W out of a S&W610..(cast .401).. .. don't put your S&W 625 on the same table. I now have one moon clip of enlarged, ruptured .40W&W casings. Fortunately there was no accident. When I wasn't hitting plates any harder than a pellet gun might, I should have taken note. I have swallowed my pride and show it to students in Canadian Restricted Firearms Safety Courses.... It's ironic, coming from an instructor, but I'd rather show how easily mistakes can be made and give the incident (and students) a face to look at. It's as dangerous as having more than one powder on the reloading bench at one time.

[Rice-n-Beans]

I used a face shield when grinding on welds and a lot of times the fine dirt and grindings were attracted to the shield from built up static. I would use anti static spray on my shield inside and out and it seemed to make a shield last a lot longer. I think that most of the scratches come from stuff sticking to the shield and wiping it off, if it don't stick then you don't have to wipe it off as often.
I get this stuff from Wal-mart, they have small travel size cans for a buck and it goes a long way, spray it on and wipe it off with a soft rag, works on powder hoppers and dippers also.

http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0/140/c/AAAACxPmS7gAAAAAAUDGnw.jpg?v=1301717089000

I spray that all over the top of my reloading bench right before I use my RCBS charge-master 1500, My reloading bench is covered in outdoor type carpet, it works.

http://cn1.kaboodle.com/hi/img/b/0/0/140/c/AAAACxPmS7gAAAAAAUDGnw.jpg?v=1301717089000

[colt 357]

When drinking with your buddies DON'T pass out while you are still with them.............

[David2011]

Write EVERYTHING down. Even that charge you've loaded thousands of for your .38 or .45. Write down the primer you used, the OAL, boolit, powder, charge weight and anything else significant. You will have an unexpected break in the action for some unforeseen reason and could make a bad mistake relying on memory. Always refer back to your notes. Read them like they are from someone else and verify everything talking out loud to yourself. Verify, verify, verify. This isn't an old age thing. It's safety for everyone.

David

[Molly]

When drinking with your buddies DON'T pass out while you are still with them.............

My friend, you need to upgrade the company you keep.

[TXGunNut]

1. Use a Sharpie to ID ingots as soon as they cool.
2. Empty plastic coffee "cans" make awesome storage, TL and brassrattin' containers.
3. Dry BPCR cases in a warm (250 degree) oven on a towel spread over a cookie sheet. They come out so pretty you won't want (or need) to tumble them.
4. Casting outside in 100 degree Texas summers is pure lunacy.

[ghh3rd]

If using wax as a flux, expect a sudden gush of fire to engulf the top of the pot as you are stirring, and don't pull the melt over and onto yourself as you jump and pull your hand away.

Randy

[C.F.Plinker]

If using wax as a flux, expect a sudden gush of fire to engulf the top of the pot as you are stirring, and don't pull the melt over and onto yourself as you jump and pull your hand away.

Randy

Keep a barbecue lighter handy and light ithe wax off before it lights off by itself. That way you know when it is going to happen and your hands can be out of the way.

[canyon-ghost]

4. Casting outside in 100 degree Texas summers is pure lunacy.

Aw, that's no kidding, there!

[TXGunNut]

Don't go hot plate shopping in a college town during back-to-school week. :coffeecom

[Jim_Fleming]

KB, additionally, use a Sharpie marker to mark bullet weight of each dummy round on the side of each case.



KB, make dummy rounds and use them to set the die for each.

Gear



Sent from my Droid

[captaint]

I replaced the metal wire "clip" that holds the shell holder in my Rock Chucker with an O ring of appropriate size. It allows the shell holder to float and align itself suring operation. I've had it that way for years and find it to be beneficial, for ME, anyway. enjoy Mike

[cutter_spc]

Well here's a tip I just discovered, when applying Bullplate on a preheated mold, don't be temped to use the cheap dollar store plastic barreled ones.

Now any one have a good tip for getting melted plastic off an aluminum mold? :oops:

[largom]

I replaced the metal wire "clip" that holds the shell holder in my Rock Chucker with an O ring of appropriate size. It allows the shell holder to float and align itself suring operation. I've had it that way for years and find it to be beneficial, for ME, anyway. enjoy Mike


I removed the clips on both of my Rock Chuckers years ago. No "O" rings, nothing but the shell-holder. Works fine.

Larry

[Molly]

Now any one have a good tip for getting melted plastic off an aluminum mold? :oops:

Try putting it in the freezer for a couple of days. If it's the right kind of plastic, you chould be able to flake it off while it's cold. If it ISN't the right kind of plastic, try wetting it for a while in some JB Blaster from your auto parts store. Best penetrating oil I ever found.

[SciFiJim]

Regular rubber bands used to hold molds closed and together for storage will crystallize with age and break. Use a band cut from a bicycle tube. I have to stretch it out some to be able to get in on the mold. I have never have one break with age.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt47/SciFiJim_photobucket/Photo0177.jpg

[1Shirt]

When it comes to anything gun related, (DON'T TRUST OBAMA)!
1Shirt!:coffee:

[Norbrat]

I pre-heat my moulds by leaving the mould balancing on the top of the pot as it heats up, then dipping the corners and sprue plate into the melt.

I know there are folks who say this will ruin a mould, but the Lee instructions suggest dipping a corner for pre-heating their moulds.

I couldn't see how this would damage the mould in any way, so started doing it with all my moulds, whether they are made from ally, iron or brass.

After doing this for over 25 years, all my moulds still function perfectly and the first bullets out of the moulds are usually keepers.

[Catshooter]

Nor,

What you're doing won't hurt the mould, as you know.

I used to do the same and it works fine. Now a days I use a small hot plate. For me this works much better, the mould gets hotter and I can pre-heat up to five moulds at a time.

Welcome to the forum too.


Cat

[kbstenberg]

I just started using a RCBS Lube sizer. Each bullet needs to be forced into the sizing die to different depths. So I have started pre=measuring all the bullets as to where the lube rings are then figure out how far into the sizer the bullet has to be pushed then write it down near the sizer.
Like 225415 has to have its nose .015 below sizer face
Kevin

[Molly]

If you enjoy playing with the grandkids and squib loads like I do, you might have been annoyed at the RCBS "Little Dandy" powder measure if it doesn't happen to throw exactly the charge you want - again, like me. But there's a way to deal with it very easily. Pick out a rotor that's a bit larger than what you want, and dry out the powder cavity with some lighter fluid. Then mix up some five minute epoxy and pour in enough to cover the bottom of the cavity, and a little more for insurance. Let it harden, and see how much it throws. (should be less than you want.) Then take a drill bit that's close in diameter, and rotate it by hand to remove a little of the cured epoxy. Check the amount dispensed again. If you overshoot, just add a little more epoxy. Repeat as necessary to get it right. Then use a scribe or punch to mark the end so you won't accidently use it by mistake.

Another Dandy rotor tip: They fit perfectly in plastic 12 gauge shotgun shell boxes for storage.

[JohnH]

For checking light charges of fast powders in bottle neck cases, go to Wally World and pick up a tire guage with a square reader stem. Remove reader stem and drop it into charged cases. Light charges, heavy charges and double charges show up instantly. Infinately better than a flashlight.

[trixter]

For checking light charges of fast powders in bottle neck cases, go to Wally World and pick up a tire guage with a square reader stem. Remove reader stem and drop it into charged cases. Light charges, heavy charges and double charges show up instantly. Infinately better than a flashlight.

Now that is a real good idea.......off to wallyworld. [smilie=2:

[floridaboy]

Lubeing Tumble Lube Bullets. I have been useing the Lee TL 200 gr. SWC for my 1911 45acp. Up to now i have used Alox tumble lube. I got tired of haveing to wipe down the bullets after loading them. I have been using a Lyman bullet sizer for my 45 colt loads so just for fun i thought i would try lubeing my tumble bullets in the Lyman sizer and see if it would work. The bullets looked good and after shooting them i can report it worked.

[hiram]

To use a brush on my 44-40 M92 I have to clean from the muzzle. My muzzle guide is a 38 special case with primer pocket drilled out.

The case fits perfectly in the muzzle and the rim prevents it from falling through.

[max range]

My tip of the day is to pony up the cash and tumble your brass with stainless steel pins that are made for polishing brass and a rotary tumbler. For decades I used the corn/walnut vibrator method. I dislike buying the same thing over and over. Thats why I cast boolitz. Buying polish and media once or twice a year and watching the price go up and up.

Now I use the pins, plus a squirt of dish soap and a pinch of Lemon Brite. Even brass from 1984 stored in paper cigar boxes came out like new. Even the primer pockets and the inside of the case look like the outside. Its like I am using virgin brass.

#2
The BEST penetrating oil is KROIL. It also works as a bore cleaner. I am not a follower of marketing hype. I recommend these things because they work and are very cost effective. I have an old jeep I am restoring so penetrating oil that allows a rusted, fastener that is a half century+ old to come off without heat is a blessing.

My first post, this is a great forum.

[Jim_Fleming]

Welcome Max Range!

Sent from my Droid

[Molly]

My tip of the day is to pony up the cash and tumble your brass with stainless steel pins that are made for polishing brass and a rotary tumbler.

Got a source for them?

[44wcf]

Got a source for them?

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

[Molly]

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/

Thanks. The before & after pictures on their web site are REALLY impressive. I notice they seem to use rotary tumblers only. Wonder if they work with vibratory tumblers?

[gwpercle]

Don't ever use your wife's kitchen stove as a heat source for a boolit casting or lead smelting session. It's very tempting when the weather outside is bad but no matter how well you clean up there's going to be evidence left somewhere ( and she will find it ) or you will have some godawful accident that's not possible to conceal. So don't even even consider the kitchen stove - unless you get permission first and have a really understanding wife who puts up with a lot of your highjinks because she loves you. Around my house when mama ain't happy nobody's happy, including the dog and cats.

[Gun Junkie]

I bought a cheap set of steel alphabet and number punches and punch my ingots as soon as they are cool;

Wheel weights - WW or W
Linotype - LT or L
#2 alloy - 2
#1 alloy - 1
Pure lead - PB or PL

These marks don't wear off or fade...well until you melt the ingot of course.

[bumpo628]

I bought a cheap set of steel alphabet and number punches and punch my ingots as soon as they are cool;

Wheel weights - WW or W
Linotype - LT or L
#2 alloy - 2
#1 alloy - 1
Pure lead - PB or PL

These marks don't wear off or fade...well until you melt the ingot of course.

What is the composition of Lyman #1?
I know that Lyman #2 has 5% tin & 5% antimony, but I've never seen the formula for #1 before.

[Bullet Caster]

These posts are great especially for a beginner like me. I liked geargnasher's idea of making up dummy rounds for each type of boolit you reload. Then someone suggested cutting a case lengthwise and you can see at which depth you're seating the boolit. Great ideas and I probably will do this ASAP. Just about everyone here has contributed to my knowledge base. Before doing anything esp. reloading, I want to digest all the information I can before I begin. That way I feel more positive about the task I'm about to undertake.
About using a bicycle tire for storing moulds, why on earth would you want to store a mould? Mine get used too often to store. I would think that if you had to store a mould, then maybe you have too many and need to send them to me for storage. LOL. BC

[Bad Water Bill]

Thanks. The before & after pictures on their web site are REALLY impressive. I notice they seem to use rotary tumblers only. Wonder if they work with vibratory tumblers?

Years ago I purchased a large vibratory tumbler for lapidary work. The vibrator worked faster polishing all types of the rocks so I got rid of the tumblers and have never looked back. :drinks:

My brass loves the vibrator.

[max range]

Mount a small shelf on the wall at eyeball level right above your loading press. Put your balance beam scale on it. You will get an accurate read on the hash marks, and near the wall, it is not affected by air currents. You can also insure the shelf is clean from drill press/sander/saw/grinder grit by wiping it down before you set the scale down. Just make sure nothing else gets stored there.

I keep my scale there, covered up with a plastic cover and store the balance beam in another location. My second scale is an electronic one that I use only as a co--witness. It is placed on the loading bench top in a handy spot. It can be read at just about any angle.

[bpratl]

Mount a small shelf on the wall at eyeball level right above your loading press. Put your balance beam scale on it. You will get an accurate read on the hash marks, and near the wall, it is not affected by air currents. You can also insure the shelf is clean from drill press/sander/saw/grinder grit by wiping it down before you set the scale down. Just make sure nothing else gets stored there.
I keep my scale there, covered up with a plastic cover and store the balance beam in another location. My second scale is an electronic one that I use only as a co--witness. It is placed on the loading bench top in a handy spot. It can be read at just about any angle.

+2
I did the same thing and to aid old tiring eyes I hot glued a large magnifying glass, stripped from a old slide viewer, to a piece of wood and placed it in front of the "zero" marks on the scale.

[Moonie]

Mount a small shelf on the wall at eyeball level right above your loading press. Put your balance beam scale on it. You will get an accurate read on the hash marks, and near the wall, it is not affected by air currents. You can also insure the shelf is clean from drill press/sander/saw/grinder grit by wiping it down before you set the scale down. Just make sure nothing else gets stored there.

I keep my scale there, covered up with a plastic cover and store the balance beam in another location. My second scale is an electronic one that I use only as a co--witness. It is placed on the loading bench top in a handy spot. It can be read at just about any angle.

Awesome idea, I don't know why I never thought about this.

[kbstenberg]

Today I found out that the plastic trays that hold 38/357 ammunition are good for multiple uses for .223 cases. The trays make good loading blocks. Which got me to thinking. I had some old Herters slip top ammo boxes for 38/357. Wala Loaded .223 ammo fits snugly in the boxes an the tops slip on the bottoms almost to the fully closed position so the friction fit keeps the covers in place.
Being cheap. I really disliked throughing the old used 9 volt batteries away every year when we changed the smoke detector batteries. So to reuse the batteries I purchased a Chrony Chronograph for my Christmas present. Now I can save 4$ a year on my chronograph
I hope this helps someone Kevin

[Nazgul]

Put my lead pot inside an old cookie pan, has a 1/2" lip. If it leaks it can't overflow onto you/bench/floor.

Don

[waksupi]

Got old stereo speakers laying around? Take them apart, and get the rare earth magnet out of them. They should have a hole in the center. Take a screw, and mount one near your drill press. They will keep firm hold on your keys, chucks, countersinks, and whatever else you need handy. Screw one to your work bench to hold needle files, rotary tools, and small items commonly used.

[Idaho Sharpshooter]

Never fry bacon in the nude...

Rich

[Chicken Thief]

Got old stereo speakers laying around? Take them apart, and get the rare earth magnet out of them. They should have a hole in the center. Take a screw, and mount one near your drill press. They will keep firm hold on your keys, chucks, countersinks, and whatever else you need handy. Screw one to your work bench to hold needle files, rotary tools, and small items commonly used.

And when all your tools are magnetic they'll never shead swarf again!
A magnetic file is a PITA in my opinion, but that's just me.

[waksupi]

And when all your tools are magnetic they'll never shead swarf again!
A magnetic file is a PITA in my opinion, but that's just me.

I kinda thought that would be a problem, but really don't have much of a problem with it. But then again, I have the air hose to blow them clean!

[Ole]

Here's a tip for bulk/plinking ammo storage:

If you're using an ammo can to bulk store ammo, weigh it empty, then weigh the rounds that are in the can. That way when you label the can, you also label the tare weight and rounds/lb so if you have a postal scale, you know how much ammo is in your can.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/Ole1830/IMG_5563.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/Ole1830/IMG_5564.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/Ole1830/IMG_5565.jpg

So in this case: 26.35lbs - 3.6lbs for the container = 22.75 rounds of ammo.

22.75 rounds x 20 rounds/lb = I know there are about 455 rounds in that can without having to keep track.

[Jim_Fleming]

C. T. You're not wrong, but it's easy enough to gently rap the edge of the magnetized file on the edge of a wooden workbench and the filings instantly fall right off. No air gun needed.



And when all your tools are magnetic they'll never shead swarf again!
A magnetic file is a PITA in my opinion, but that's just me.



Sent from my Droid

[joken]

I'm new at this casting business so this may not be news to most of you. I was cleaning lube from freshly loaded rounds. I had a jug of mineral spirits on the bench so I moistened the rag and not only did the lube come off easily, it made the lead shine. Ken

[Net_Ranger101]

lightly spray silicone on bullets with soft lube to keep them from sticking together
helps the lube to stay in the bullets grove...

tape several layers of newspaper on your bench to keep the silicone from going everywhere stack the bullets in nice rows SPRAY LIGHTLY a little goes a long way
:killingpc

[mrbillbus]

Never fry bacon in the nude...

Rich

Don't pick up a cat with super glue on your hands.

Never pet a burning dog.

Tuck, then zip.

[mfraser264]

Good castings are produced with consistent metal temp and mold temp. Keep it consistent! Being in low pressure die casting with metal molds, we are always fighting mold temp and getting the process consistent. As both mold halves temp’s are monitored along with metal temp and cycle time, the key is keeping it the same. Leave a mold open for 3 minutes and the temp will drop 100 degrees and the next casting will have shrink.

Changing time and temp will generate more scrap immediately. This is proven as we x-ray 100% of the casting with real-time X-ray and can see the result of the changes quickly. Someday when I get a chance I want to X-ray some .30 caliber lead castings and see where the shrink is. Centerline shrink is an issue that most casting process contend with and casting lead in molds is no different.

I have moved to casting 1 mold at a time for limit the variables and lessen the wasted nonproductive motions of the process. Will be weighing a group form this process and will be interested in the results.

[Michael J. Spangler]

when trying to remove blood from you're favorite clown costume use a solution of 50% bleach and 50% cotton candy

that is all

[Christorbust]

Put my lead pot inside an old cookie pan, has a 1/2" lip. If it leaks it can't overflow onto you/bench/floor.

Don

+1
I cannot say how great of an idea that is.

I was casting yesterday, and when adding ingots one of them knocked my bottom pour spout open. Don't know how, but I do know that molten lead was coming out in a hurry! Fortunately I had 3 sets of four ingot molds and could catch it all till I could figure out what was going on.

I'll be talking bad about my wive's cookie pans till she decides she needs to "throw one out" and get a new one:D Thanks for the tip!

[Wolfer]

A few pages back there was some posts on seater depths for different bullets, guns, etc.
What works for me is I have one dummy made in each caliber. It's usually on the lands of some gun or another,doesn't really matter. My loaded ammo boxes will have say ( 1/4 RD SOD) meaning 1/4 round short of dummy. Then if I change my die to crimp or not to crimp its a simple matter to go to the correct seating depth.

[mr.jake]

A .38sw lee powder through expander die will eliminate swagging of your 9mm boolits and still charge your case with powder.

[gmsharps]

If at the end of a loading sesson you forget to empty the power reservoir and you return some days later and wonder what powder that is. Get rid of it. Do not take the chance of guessing the wrong powder.

gmsharps

[Longwood]

I buy a lot of stainless steel cooking and serving pans used by the restaurants that end up at the local recycler. Don't know why but they sure do get a lot of them.
They are very well made too handle heavy loads and come in many handy sizes
Every time I go to get scrap lead, I look in the stainless bin for a pan to carry it in.
The big cookie sheets are great for numerous thing also and I usually get them for about $3 each.

[Catshooter]

Geez, rather than throwing out powder from your measure's resivoir, why not just label it?


Cat

[Mooseman]

I put the can of powder I am using right behind my measure until i am done with it, so there is no confusion as to which powder is being used. It then goes back on the shelf away from the measure when done...avoids that situation. Labeling would also help !

[ChrisK]

A few tips here:

For tumbling media, you can pick up 50# sacks of Walnut fairly cheap at a Welders Supply (used for sand blasting)

If you have a laptop and an external web cam, you can place the cam directly in front of your balance beam scale. This will show you a larger picture on your computer screen and eliminate any parralex (sp)


For melting large amounts of lead quickly, you can get a cheap cast iron pot @ Harbor freight as well as a propane burner used for deep frying turkeys.

For a cheap lubesizer heater, I have a sheet of aluminum that I ordered that is the width of the lubri-sizer and the length should be long enough to hold a clothing iron. I then mount it a bit raised from the bench using washers so the bench doesnt become a heat sink. You can use the wifes iron or pick up one cheap from a garage sale or 2nd hand store.

[BulletFactory]

I discovered a small pebble inside a spent .40 case.

After I broke a decapping pin. :?

[41mag]

Well I didn't read through the whole thing so if this has been suggested before I missed it.

I have been pouring and sizing quite a few of the longer RFN type boolits through the Lee push through sizers. As such there have been several times the bullets have stacked and lifted the top cover off almost resulting in a mess.

I found that a piece of 1/4" wide Ty-Wrap, about an inch taller than the spout which comes into the container, could be bent on the end with a pair of pliers, and would hold it's shape. This could then be inserted into the gap between the outside of the owl and the spout and would effectively knock the boolits over as they came through the spout, keeping them from stacking.

It has only taken one Ty-Wrap to make enough of these to have one in several sizers.

[BulletFactory]

Today, I wanted to take a picture of the sight alignment on the M&P. I almost pulled the trigger instead of the camera button.

Think about it.[smilie=1:

[SciFiJim]

For those of you with Android phones.

Ultra Magnifier+ is a lighted magnifier camera for your phone.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=zapDroid.UltraMagnifierPlus&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsInphcERyb 2lkLlVsdHJhTWFnbmlmaWVyUGx1cyJd

It makes it easier to look at small parts and to look in barrels. My eyes aren't as good as they used to be. This helps a lot.

[Rangefinder]

Geez, rather than throwing out powder from your measure's resivoir, why not just label it?

Easiest way I've found to deal with this is I always have sharpies on the bench for making primers in a ladder load work-up. Tear off a strip of paper, write the powder on it, lay it on the top of the opening after you fill, and snap the cap on. Sealed, visible, doesn't turn into a sticky mess as with labels, etc. Another solution is wet-erase markers. They won't rub off simply from touching them, but come off easily with a damp rag.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
Remember to turn your head before you sneeze when weighing out Unique in the pan of a beam scale.
Mike in Peru

[44deerslayer]

Take an old kitchen spoon put it in a vise up side down take a 4 inch grinder with a cut off wheel and grind a slot in the middle of spoon this way when you skim off your ww clips hot lead goes out the slot and not in your coffee can.

[Elkins45]

The Lee molds all look alike at the bottom of a drawer, so write the diameter and weight on the handles with a Sharpie. I spray them with clear lacquer after they dry so the marking doesn't get worn off, but I have discovered you need to weight a couple of days at least so the Sharpie can penetrate the factory finish. If you don't it can sometimes run with the lacquer.

I also use twist ties to hold them closed.

http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm35/elkins_pix/molds.jpg

[xs11jack]

I found a couple of different case cleaning media in the walmart pet dept. It is a lot cheaper than any reloading outlet.

[lcclower]

+1 on the repurposed sewing machine motor/foot control.

Lube heater, get a 40W cartridge element (online), a piece of aluminum plate and a screw adjustable upper thermostat for an electric water heater.

Stuck case removal, get a 7/8 x 14 nut to hold the die; add a nut and heavy washer to the bolt; run the drill, tap and bolt no further into the stuck case than the thickness of the base of the case; use the nut and heavy washer on the bolt against the 7/8 x 14 nut to pull the case out so that you don't wreck the decap stem and expander.

[Rangefinder]

When casting with a mold that has 2 or more cavities but one is HP'd for a spud that you don't happen to be using... DON'T lose track of what your doing and attempt to fill all the cavities anyway... :D It just pours right through--and the splatter tells you pretty quick that it's doing so all over the bench... That would be a Homer Simpson moment I'd like to save you from. ;)

[roarin 54]

When taking your .44 Magnum and your .45 Colt to the range..............don't take your .44 Magnum and your .45 Colt to the range at the same time unless each gun and its respective ammo are separated, i.e. keep the .44 Magnum and its ammo in your vehicle while you have the .45 Colt and its ammo at the bench...don't ask me how I know this.

[Balduran]

Because the harder bullets for my .444 cool a bit bigger, the gas checks are a little tighter to fit on the base of the bullet. I cut a thin steel plate to fit over the hole for sizing my bullets and use the top punch to press on the gas check nice and square.
Pull the plate and size and lube.
Works for me.

[oldfart1956]

For ya'll that shoot muzzleloaders stop wasting money on overpriced "super-dooper bullets." Find a good Maxi-Ball mold and get to casting. They work. Long bearing surface and plenty of weight. If it's too heavy git it hollowpointed or do it yourself. Next, learn how to pan lube them Maxi's. It's cheap, easy....and it works. No more daubing on Bore Butter and slopping it all over your hands while loading. Pan lube, half beeswax and half olive oil. Cheap..easy....and it works. A easy way to carry them pre-lubed Maxi's is to scrounge up some of them plastic tubes the kiddies get M&M's in at Easter an Christmas. Cut to length an cork/stopper up the ends. A scrap piece of pvc pipe works too...push a pvc cap on both ends to keep em' in there. Audie....the Oldfart

[bpratl]

To minimize dented bullets while casting I built two 8” x 8” boxes and hinged one on top of the other with a support leg and lined with old carpet. I dump the casted bullets in the upper level to cool down, while I filling the mold and them dump to the lower level before opening the mold.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/BobPratl/APR019.jpg
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t191/BobPratl/APR020.jpg

[Captain Midnight]

Need a big pot for casting on a turkey fryer? Use an old empty propane tank. BE SURE IT IS EMPTY! Remove the valve [this is where empty is important]. Fill with water, empty water. Use your 5" grinder and cut the tank in half along the welded seam. Cut the collar off the top half and cut it in two for two handles to weld onto the bottom half for carry & pouring. Works great on the turkey fryer. be careful... it will hold more melt than you can easily lift.

[44wcf]

Need a big pot for casting on a turkey fryer? Use an old empty propane tank. BE SURE IT IS EMPTY! Remove the valve [this is where empty is important]. Fill with water, empty water. Use your 5" grinder and cut the tank in half along the welded seam. Cut the collar off the top half and cut it in two for two handles to weld onto the bottom half for carry & pouring. Works great on the turkey fryer. be careful... it will hold more melt than you can easily lift.

How about a picture?

[ghh3rd]

When you get your new Lyman lube sizer, and are about to pour melted lube into it, stop -- install a sizer with ram inserted into it first. Otherwise, you will have hot lube running through the lube sizer all over your feet and the floor :-(.

Please don't ask me how I know this :oops:

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

When taking your .44 Magnum and your .45 Colt to the range..............don't take your .44 Magnum and your .45 Colt to the range at the same time unless each gun and its respective ammo are separated, i.e. keep the .44 Magnum and its ammo in your vehicle while you have the .45 Colt and its ammo at the bench...don't ask me how I know this.

Same goes for .41 mag and .44 mag. Trust me.

[oldfart1956]

Easy-peasey pistol rest! Working up some loads for the Ruger .45 Colt and I'm jittering around like I have the palzy. I broke down and bought a Nikon scope....now I can really see the crosshairs bobbing and weaving all over the target. Much better. Arrrgh! Too cheap to buy a pistol rest. Resting the gun on the sandbags doesn't work...bounces on recoil even with light loads. Tried wadding up a towel and laying that on the sandbags. Excellent...flaming rags now all over the range! Down to the garage...snatched up a foot long piece of 1x6 and drilled 2 holes 3in. apart on one end. Found 2 carriage bolts 3/8 x 8in. long and shoved em' thru the holes...pointing up...like rabbit ears. Threaded on a pair of 3/8th. nuts and snugged em' down till they squeaked. Now I don't want anything solid holding the barrel steady so I grabbed a thick rubber-band and pulled it from rabbit ear to rabbit ear. Perfect! Easy to adjust for height to! Started poking nice little groups and smiling like a idiot...till the eyepiece fell off the new Nikon. But that's another story. Audie..the Oldfart..

[delt167502]

If you use a electronic scale and you use the gram test weight,be sure to reset it to grains before loading. it blows the primers out of the case,if you don't.( using bullseye)

[Rangefinder]

^^^HOLY SHEEP!!! Considering a quick conversion of 4 grams is just shy of 62 grains, what were you loading and how'd you get it in the case without noticing!!!???

[MANGYCOYOTE]

If you're under 35, you can skip the following tip. If you are an "experienced" lady or man this will improve your shooting. Guaranteed, never fail, gut cinch, lead pipe, better paper scores or sharper sight pictures every time! its so simple that I suspect many forget this simple rule: DON'T READ anything prior to shooting! No paper, no magazines, no computer, no hot cereal boxes, nothing! Our eye muscles don't respond as quickly as they once did when we get into middle/old age. If I read anything in the morning, then my distance vision takes forever to return to normal, hours! My eye Dr. said it was normal for an old geezer and just live with it. Whenever I'm going to the range-I don't read and it makes a huge difference!

[10 Spot Terminator]

SHEEZ !!!

Had to read all these posts to make sure I had some ideas not posted yet !!!

1. Attach indoor outdoor carpet on load bench top with velcro straps on corners and when gets dirty takem to the car wash and hangem on the clothesline to dry.

2. To stop powder cling to the drop tube on your dispenser or the pan on your scale , rub either one briskly with a dryer sheet to de-magnetize em.

3. When trimming cases on Lyman, Forster, RCBS etc. trimmers save one of the cases for a repeat sizing jig for next time , use an old junk case for this .

4. For stirring alloyed metals when mixing or fluxing try to find old wood handled spoons with holes in them , mix well, and if making ingots pour/cool right away .

5. Use thermometers in your melt pot as most will increase melt temp as level gets lower in the pot. Less volume = easier to heat , heat varies cast slightly .

6. Leave a non stick post it note in the tube of your dispenser with powder and weight drop even after load session done. Quicker getting onto next target load.

7. Dont toss out your zinc wheel weights. Get a seperate pot and cast sinkers . When you lose em to the river gods,,, who cares and the "greenies" cant gripe !

8. For vision impared shooters try this. Go to the phamacy where they sell reader glasses. When trying them on hold a ballpoint pen tip pointing up about 1 inch in your dominant hand at arms length as if you are holding a handgun. When you can see the point of the pen fairly clear as well as the signs at the end of the isle you have your magnification needed for iron sights. Find that power in the larger lenses and you have shooting glasses you can see out of ,,, ( this I know well ) .

9. When in doubt about your new "HOT" loads,,, get someone else to shoot them first ,,, [smilie=l:

10 Spot

[Bladebu1]

Powder"s if you can stick to as few as possable ( Tight group)
always take Blue painters tape to mark the powder in the Measure when you empty it back in to the bottel that is behind it Take the tape and stick it back in the bottel of powder it will stick pack to the powder measure

Keep a book with each set of dies write down things like 230grain RNL with 3.6 grains of tight group with CCi LPP on feb 3 2011 made 400 then come back and write any issues you had like shot good or had two FTF keep a page per batch

if your as cheap as me I go to the range and collect old ammo boxes and put my reloads in them and lable the boxes like above make sure you date as well I color code my boxes Black for 9MM red for 40SW Blue for 38sp green for 45ACP and and makes it quick to sort what was your brass when you get back if you maker the back of the Brass too

[daddyseal]

When smelting range berm lead or ww. put them in an old deep fryer basket in the pot on the burner, heat up... shake gently now and then...the lead melts out and all the metal stays in the basket and comes out All At Once ...except for dirt that spoons out easily.

I've done this many times...and it works!
Very Quick and Easy~!!

[H.Callahan]

Storage hint learned years ago from my grandfather. If you are using jars with screw on lids to store things, take the lids and affix them with screws to the bottom of a shelf. Then just screw the jar to the lid and they will hang from the bottom of the shelf, taking no space on the shelf itself.

[Wayne Smith]

When you are at the range after a rain and picking up .45ACP brass be careful. I was tapping on against my hand to get the water out and out came a wasp!

Q-tips don't survive on my casting table. An old pill bottle holds a bunch of them and keeps them clean and ready to use.

[Jaybird62]

Styrofoam 50-round .45 ACP box inserts make great holders for my sized and lubed .458 boolits.

[ipijohn]

An old aquarium pump clamped to the primer slide on a Lee Pro 1000 keeps the primers moving down the slide when the level gets low.

[Casper29]

If you are just starting out with reloading, take the amount of space that you have picked out for your bench and at the very least double it, I started out with a bench with 3 shelves, then I began casting so I needed another bench with four shelves for this, next I added two shelves above each bench, and I still need more room, so I took over the closet in our spare bedroom for storage of climate controled items such as powder, primers, bullet lube ready to shoot ammo ect. and guess what? yep I could still use more room.

[frankenfab]

With it being back to school time, there are tons of composition books at Walmart for 50 cents each. I am going to start keeping a dedicated book for many of my firearms containing load data, round count, range results.

[largom]

With it being back to school time, there are tons of composition books at Walmart for 50 cents each. I am going to start keeping a dedicated book for many of my firearms containing load data, round count, range results.


I use a small 3 ring binder for each caliber. Dividers separate different guns of the same caliber. For each gun I list the specifics such as serial number and features. I made up load data sheets listing case, primer. powder & weight, boolit mold & weight, date loaded & tested, range, velocity, extreme spread, and group size.

Larry

[Longwood]

Some good advise.

[abqcaster]

I bought plastic nested funnels at the dollar store for, wait for it. . . a dollar!

I use them to punch boolits out of the solidified lube when pan lubing. The last boolit I push up into the funnel tube forces the previous boolit up, and eventually into the mouth of the funnel. The mouth of the funnel then becomes a reservoir of sorts for lubed boolits that I then run up my lee sizer.

Use plastic funnels so you can easily adjust the tube opening for boolit size.

[Catshooter]

Now that's a dang good idea abqcaster. And simple to boot! Thanks. And welcome to the forum too.


Cat

[kbstenberg]

To add to Ghh3rd. Unscrew the washer that puts pressure on the lube before filling the reservoir.
Kevin

[fourarmed]

This has probably been posted before, but... I use a spare primer flip tray to handle gas checks. Dump some in and use all the ones facing up, then put the lid on, flip, and do the rest.

[abqcaster]

=Thanks. And welcome to the forum too.


Cat

Thank you, Cat!

[308Man]

If something does not fit easily or like it should-don't force it...

[Hydroshock]

Good day Guys

For the guys that would like to try some boat tail cast bullets, I made my own mould for casting paper patched bullets for my 303 BR P14, and cut a boat tail profile on the back of the bullet by using a normal single blade pencil sharpener.
It makes a really smooth cut and looks neat. I have not tested the boat tail bullets in my rifle yet but will report back once I loaded some test samples.
I guess you would be able to cut a boat tail on any cast bullet that is small enough to fit in a pencil sharpener but obviously that will eliminate the step for the gascheck which can cause leading.
I would really like to know what some of the other forum members think of this idea.

Happy shooting
HS.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/thum_24864503219208117b.jpg ('http://castboolits.gunloads.com/vbimghost.php?do=displayimg&imgid=6345')

[Joe504]

Put your load data online. Use Google Drive to create a spreadsheet or other document for all of your data. Once there, it can never be lost and you can access it from anywhere you have net access.

I use it to keep track of my inventory so I do not buy something I allready have.

Its free, and easy to use, all you need is a gmail account, its at the top of the gmail page.

[kbstenberg]

My Lee 4-20 started really running a full stream or dripping so fast it was almost a stream when the valve should have been off.
Yesterday after work. I took the valve stem out of the pot to clean the stem and the spout. I thought everything looked clean. Put everything back together. Heated it up. It dripped worse than before the cleaning.
Tonight I took it apart again for another cleaning. This time all I did to the stem was to rub some steel wool on the tip while the stem was spinning in my drill just to shine it up.
To clean the spout. I used a 30 cal. brass cleaning brush spun in my drill. I alternated putting steel wool or pieces of paper towel on the tip of the brush and spinning it in the hole of the spout till the cloth came out clean. Put it together again and went out to test it. It now works just as good as new. When I closed the stem in the spout not a drip came out. I hope this helps.
Kevin

[I'll Make Mine]

I made my own mould for casting paper patched bullets for my 303 BR P14, and cut a boat tail profile on the back of the bullet by using a normal single blade pencil sharpener.

How's your bullet weight consistency and tail concentricity with those? Failing that information, how do they group? FWIW, there's no reason one couldn't make a mold that would case a boattail and eliminate the pencil sharpener step. Still can't be gas checked, but if you're paper patching, you don't really care...

[largom]

May have been posted before but, If your loading press has a spring clip to hold the shell holder in place on the ram, remove it. This allows the shell holder to float and align the case more even with the die, especially for sizing.

Larry

[boatworks]

I'm a noobie and here's my first post-I use a Lee single stage press and I bought a second one and mounted it about a foot away from my first one. When I charge the cartridge I move it to the second press where I have the seating die. This eliminates the need for a loading block and makes it easier to charge the cartridge without double-charging. It is also faster than using the one press and loading block.

[Idaho Mule]

If any of you load 32-20, and I know some do here is a tip I have. Starline, wich is very good brass is just a tad (scientific term) thicker in the neck walls. I use Lee trimmers and the one for 32-20 would bing in the thicker necks. Went to using length gage for 30 carbine and it works great, you may have to adjust the length by grinding tip off, just measure them.

[Chicken Thief]

May have been posted before but, If your loading press has a spring clip to hold the shell holder in place on the ram, remove it. This allows the shell holder to float and align the case more even with the die, especially for sizing.

Larry
I replaced mine with an O-ring

[steve249]

When pan lubing for my .50 M/L i use an old .50 BMG case as a kake kutter. I resized the case mouth and cut the head off. Boolits pop right out the top.

[zomby woof]

Never tumble .38/357 brass with 30 Carbine. I'm finding carbine brass stuck inside 38"s.

[MT Gianni]

Never tumble .38/357 brass with 30 Carbine. I'm finding carbine brass stuck inside 38"s.

Yep, the same goes for 38's and 9mm with anything 40 and 40 S&W with 45.

[jaysouth]

When you buy anything new with set screws, take the new item(dies, etc), a set of hex keys and your reading glasses to Ace Hardware.

Buy two new coarse thread hex set screws BEFORE you lose the originals.

[ShootNSteel]

Yep, the same goes for 38's and 9mm with anything 40 and 40 S&W with 45.

9mm or 38spec can seriously disappear in longer 460S&W or 454 casull cases. Only did that once.

[WashingMike]

I mounted my case trimmer to a square piece of 3/4" plywood. Easy enoungh, then screwed a 2 x 4 to one edge running parallel to the case trimmer, forming an "L". Then you C-clamp the 2 x 4 "L" to the bench so the case trimmer is mounted parallel but hanging over the edge of the bench. Raise a waste basket up on something to a height just under the trimmer so all the cuttings fall straight down into the lined waste basket.
If you can imagine using the case trimmer in front of you on the bench, you are just hanging off the edge of the bench in front of you, using it sideways. A small paint brush keeps the stuff falling in the waste basket if you have it handy. Kinda hard to explain, but it works like a peach.

WashingMike

[mdevlin53]

I picked up a couple of those 3/8 inch dia. rods that they set out in parkin lots so the snow plow knows where the curb is. I cut them down to about 36 inches and use them for pushing things that get stuck in the barrels of my guns(every once in a while when working up a dummy round a boolit or case will get stuck).
With the short parts left over i have:
cut one to about 3 inches to get the last boolit out of a lee push through die
one cut to about 6 inches is used to put dacron fil in larger cases
one about 6 inches is used to push peices of papertowels with some mineral spirits through dies to clean them
one about a foot long helps retrieve a dropped case when it is just out of reach
I used a 4 inch peice to reinforce the wrist of a stock that had a crack
And they are bright orange so you can find them on the bench.

[trapper9260]

Thank you for all you all wrote ,it help me alot. I have some tips also that works for me .
For not to have a 2 charges of powder in a case I have the cases after I prime them upside down and then you have them up side up after when you are done charge them .Also for when you test rounds on different powders or weigth of powders i mark the primers with different color sharpie and make a dot of it and note of it ,then you know what one you are usen.Also you know what load will work for you .
As for keeping track of what your data you have for each weight of each cal and catriage I put it all on a index card and then the holder you have for index cards you put what catriage is on it then you just take the card and load it have all your info you need on it .
For you lube sizer ,get a heater for it will make it easyer for the lube to flow and less pressure on the sizer.
When you size and lude different cast bullets use a candy try that have different candys that you can get at Christmas time and just write on a paper of what size and bullet and just put it for the ones you have szie and use right away if you are doing different ones at a time .
When you have powder in a scale or powder despencer you have write on a card board and put it on the scale with the same powder and then you will always know what you have for the powder and alsoif you charge the cases and need to leave for some reason take a sheet of card board and put over the ones that is not finish and write down on a paper and put on it to know what you have done.
for bullet lube make a mold for the lube and then you will not have to deal with hot lube in the sizer.
Used corn cobs that you think is no good use as flux for your lead
when you put your lead in igots cast one bullet to test for hardness and take metal stamps and mark the ingots and then you know what you have and hardnest
If there is any more that I can think of I will post later.Hope any of this will help anyone

[cloakndagger]

One thing my grandpa related but I failed to grasp until I started reloading.

"Do one thing at a sitting and when you get ready to move on to something else, put everything away and take a walk, then come back and start with your new project, youll keep more fingers and eyebrows that way"
(paw was a farmer and community "stump blaster" ergo, he used "deeniemyte" to get stubborn stumps out of neighbors fields.. he also once said "theres a few things you only do once, and a few more you should ever do" as he showed me the scar he got from hitting a blasting cap with a hammer to seat it on the fuse)

Long story short, if youre loading and want to switch calibers, put everything away, go get a cuppa joe, then start over, it ensures youre not using 30-06 reloading data in a 30-30 ;-)

[astroskg]

wow you all took my tricks from me before i could post them.

metal stamps to punch each ingot of alloy i make, chalk, sharpies, crayons all seem to fade after time, i stamp each batch with a a- b- c- d ect... aa -bb-cc-dd and record in my book the make up of each batch, lead, super hard, tin, i also pour 4-6 bullets from each batch from an old 50 cal maxi ball mold i have and place them with each set of ingots i have made so i can check hardness after a few days and record it in my book.
after checking hardness i add a "OK" to each ingot and place it into my bucket of alloyed material that way when i sit down to cast i look at each ingot and know what hardness it is and what caliber it is good for casting.

plugged casting pot bottom pour spout, a small butane plumbing torch a few seconds on the tip of the spout and it usually starts flowing fine,

Blue painters tape on the powder dispenser listing powder type and charge size. which i leave on the tool head assembly so i know the next time i do that caliber what Powder i was useing and what charge.

i deprime all my brass when i get back from the range on a single stage press and sort it and run it thru the tumbler till its clean but not necessarily bright and shiny and store it in plastic containers like cat litter containers.

check and under size each case on the single stage press and back to the tumbler.


two caps full of New Finish car polish added to new corn cob media and 10 minutes later brass comes out looking shiny and brand new.

only then will it be ready for reloading no crud, burnt powder , primer pieces, or dirt to scrape or scratch my dies or clog up the priming station on my press. all this clean brass is stored in the same cat litter plastic containers or plastic containers i bought from wally world with covers. each container is marker with a sticker, caliber, cleaned, u-sized, Ready. the reloading process goes so smooth because nothing is dirty and all components are ready for assembly no surprises of glocked cases, bent brass, dirt, rocks, mud, or small primered 45 brass in a large primer set up Yes it does take a little more time but part of reloading is enjoying what you do and the end product. the preparation done before hand makes for a fun productive reloading session. everything is done in steps but maybe some of you cast, size, lube,clean, prime and load your bullets all in one day, but i don't i do each step when i have the time will spend an afternoon casting, then resizing and lubing during the week if i ever get in a bind because the kid calls on thursday and says he will be home for the weekend with a friend and wants to go shooting everything is ready to go and i just grab the ready components and assemble the round on the progressive press within a day i have several thousand rounds ready for a day playing at the range.

have fun enjoy what you are doing

[Lizard333]

Lots of great info here. Some tips when using the SS media.

You can reduce the water recomended, 1 gallon, down to three quarts, and add 3 pounds of brass instead of the two, and still get great results.

Get the media seperator from Dillon. You can dump your brass and SS media in and it makes removing the pins a snap. Just don't spin it too fast or you will have pins EVERYWHERE. Found that out when the oldest, 6, wanted to "help".

Rinse the brass in HOT water after your done tumbling. Then shake the brass in a colinder, preferably not the misses, and place it on a dry towel, again, not the misses. Place the brass in 225 degree oven for about 10 minutes. This removes any and all water spots, and drys the brass off nicely, allowing you relaod them without the fear of water.

I use a Dillon 550 for reloading my pistol brass. I found that if I treat my 44 mag, 45 Colt, and 454 casull like rifle brass, I enjoy loading them much more. I aplly a small amount of case lube to the case and size and deprime. Then I tumble them to remove the case lube. Then I just start with a primer and move the case over to the powder die. Every time the handle is lowered a new primer is ready to install in the next case. No need to resize again.

[Jeffrey]

BEFORE testing for most accurate powder charges, hunting, using your scoped rifle or handgun check the scope mount for tightness.

[cabezaverde]

I drop my hot boolits into an old metal paint roller pan with a piece of towel in the bottom. Position it with the high side towards you and the boolits roll down hill into the deep part as you are casting.

[leadtater]

Never cast bullets while wearing sandles.:cry:

[mdevlin53]

If you reload brass shotgun shells and want a quick measure for #4 shot then a 45-70 case will hold just about 1 oz. +- a pellet or 4

[tworr]

Cheap recycled storage containers for lead muffins.

If you buy the Lays Stax chips that are like pringles and you melt your lead
into muffins. Those blue stax plastic cans make good storage containers and cost $1. The chips taste good and when you have eaten them all, you can fit 8 muffins in one tube.

I recommend that you stack 8 lead muffins and then slide the can over them and flip. Trust me, it's faster and easier doing it that way.

[Jim_Fleming]

Good one!


Cheap recycled storage containers for lead muffins.

If you buy the Lays Stax chips that are like pringles and you melt your lead
into muffins. Those blue stax plastic cans make good storage containers and cost $1. The chips taste good and when you have eaten them all, you can fit 8 muffins in one tube.

I recommend that you stack 8 lead muffins and then slide the can over them and flip. Trust me, it's faster and easier doing it that way.

[Rocket Man]

Flux your lead pot with candle wax.