BRP Mold

[GSaltzman]

Just received my 462-420 GC from BRP. All I can say is it was worth every penny just to look at it. Very good man to deal with. Highly recommend his product. Of course many of you know this already.

[RobS]

All I can say is it was worth every penny just to look at it. Very good man to deal with.

Just to look at it..................just wait to cast with it and you'll be even happier. Bruce is another person this forum can count on for great service and quality products.

[DragoonDrake]

I don't know. His molds always seem to get me in trouble. Once the SWIMBO sees it, I hear, "well is it worth it?". HECK YES.

[Hardcast416taylor]

You want to talk about getting into trouble?:shock: I just got THREE (3) of his molds in the mail last Saturday!Robert:bigsmyl2:

[DragoonDrake]

Good luck sir.

[Crusty Deary Ol'Coot]

Gsaltzman,

Would be really interested in your results with that mold.

I hear that the 420 and 465gr LFN molds are great shoot'in boolits in the 45/70.

If I can't get the groups I want from my 355gr LBT/WFN, I'm think'in the BRP mold in one of the above two wts. is the direction I'll head.

Have some more powders to try, but 3" at 100yds is about the best I have seen at this point.

Keep us posted!

Keep em coming!

Crusty Deary Ol'Coot

[peerlesscowboy]

Got the BRP 270 gr .375 single cavity mould the other day. Gave it a good cleaning with hot water & "dawn", then sprayed down with brake cleaner and wiped dry as prescribed. Tried it out casting with ly#2, must'a dropped a hundred bullets and I couldn't seem to get the mould hot enuf' to get past the wrinkled bullet thing [smilie=b: shut down for the day thinking I should'a got a double cavity mould to make it easier to keep the mould up to heat :sad: Next day I fired up and tried it again, dropped prob'ly another hundred bullets with wrinkles and then as if by magic the wrinkles stopped [smilie=w: from then on I dropped prob'ly another hundred perfect bullets, just kept casting 'til the pot ran dry.
Haven't had much experience with aluminum moulds altho' I must say this one's a fine piece of craftsmanship! Is it normal for to take that long to break in an aluminum mould & get all the oil contamination out? Or, did I just finally get the thing hot enuf'?
I'm using an old Lyman Mould Master 10 lb bottom pour pot and had the rheostat turned up as far as it would go altho' the temp dial handle & pointer's been broke off for years and I'm not so sure the rheostat even "rheo's" anymore? Another factor might be that it's my habit to drop the sprues and reject bullets back into the pot as I'm casting but on this, the second occassion I started not doing that and shortly after was when I started getting good bullets so maybe that helped the melt and in turn the mould to heat up more?
What do ya'll think? was the problem a too cold thing or an oil contamination, break-in issue?
FWIW, I'm wishing anyway I would've ordered a double cavity mould instead of a single cavity :oops:, these BRP mould blocks are bigger than I was expecting.

John C. Saubak

[ambergrifleman]

I got My .462 210 Mould other Day. Casting is very Near. Maybe sometime next week. I can cast a Few with it. My Trapdoors will Thank Me for them.

[DragoonDrake]

I like my .462-210 shoots wonderful.
Peerless, I have had the same issue with all my aluminum molds. I sometimes clean them first sometimes don't. Doesn't seem to make much difference. My first 5#'s of metal seem to get remelted. Once it starts to get good fillout, with BRP's molds you can do no wrong except run out of lead.

Adam

[GLL]

I am especially fond of Bruce's 1-cavity HP moulds ! They do require a little added heat and rapid casting rate but the results are worth the extra effort ! :) :)

http://www.fototime.com/F2B9D5B8B8FEF9C/orig.jpg

[BABore]

I wash all the molds twice in lacquer thinner after final inspection. I used to take the personal and tryout molds home and boil them with detergent, use hot water and Dawn detergent with a tooth brush, and then clean them again with brake cleaner. I would still get less than perfect boolits about 30% of the time til I either lightly smoked them or let them cool down and gave them another round of brake cleaner. I no longer bother with all that BS.

They come from the shop and get set on my 250 F wood stove once the handles are on. With my 40 lb dipper pot running at 700 F, I dip the front, free end of the sprue plate and bottom corner of the mold in the pot for 25-30 seconds. It gets quickly wiped off and filled. The sprue takes 25-30 seconds to soldify and I then hold it in front of a HS fan for a few seconds and then cut the sprue. The boolit(s) are perfectly filled out and look like galvanized steel. I cool the open mold for 4-5 seconds with the fan and fill it up again. It takes 2-3 casts to get the temperature moderated to where the boolits are dropping shiny. The sprue is now solidifying in 3-4 seconds. That's where I like to run the mold temperature and I will cut the sprue with just a slight bit of tear-out. The mold and sprue plate need to be run at a consistent hot enough temperature, regardless of pot temperature. I can get perfectly filled out boolits on the first cast whether the alloy is 650 or 800 F.

[45 2.1]

That's where I like to run the mold temperature and I will cut the sprue with just a slight bit of tear-out.

Hee hee hee hee hee......................... Mikey...... you here that.

[GSaltzman]

I hear you what you guy's are saying about these molds getting you in trouble. I'm already working on another order for several molds. Hope to get some cast Saturday. My knee buckled on me a few days ago and had to see an orthopedic doc today so I've been a little hobbled.

[9.3X62AL]

Sorry to hear about that knee issue, GS. If ever a joint needed further R&D, the knee is it.

I've had recent E-mail contact with BRP/Bruce, and he will get the work on at least one mould design for the 45-70/Ruger #1. I'm leaning toward the 462-420 PB and the 462-465 GC, 3-cavs in 4-hole blocks. Heck, I'll likely get both.