seperate or not

[white eagle]

do you all keep your brass separate when making
handloads or do you use a medley of brass
Does it really make a difference ???:bigsmyl2:

[btroj]

It does make a difference, in some cases.
If I am loading for top accuracy I keep the brass separated. Both by headstamp and rifle.
Most of my shooting is of a type where this type of work will make no difference to me. Not worth the effort to keep things separated.

It is a decision based upon need and desire to take the time to do so. Some people here are probably of a mindset that anything but keeping brass organized and separated is a crime.

Brad

[bigboredad]

I separate the cracked ones from the good ones. I tried separating by brand but I guess I don't shoot good enough to notice a difference

[Jal5]

I try to separate by brand for load developing purposes in the pistol. For just plinking/target practice I mix em up. For rifle reloading I separate them.

[RobS]

I have all my handgun and rifle brass in lots so I know the age/use of each group. The 45 auto gets whatever headstamp thrown at it, I used mixed brass for this reloading. The revolver rounds are seperated out by lot and headstamp with older brass used for plinkers. Some of the plinker brass for the revolvers is later mixed headstamp of about the same reload usage. The rifle brass is done the same as the revolver brass, by lot and headstamp. Nothing too fancy around here.

[Doby45]

I only sort for test rounds and "gift" rounds. The "gift" rounds also get an extra cleaning so they are extra purdy..

[1Shirt]

I attempt to keep it seperated by lot and by rifle. Sometimes I suceed.
1Shirt!:coffeecom

[Firebricker]

I separate most now except for .38 spl that I load for plinking and just leave in a bin. But anything I put in a box I've been sorting by HS. For most revolver ammo I buy Starline brass for and thats all I load and keeps it simple. FB

[jhalcott]

I got a bunch of Sako .223 brass and ammo from a friend. He remarked that the loads SOME TIMES seemed hot. I tried a few(3) and the third one was HOT!!. I pulled the rest after weighing some empties. The range of 20 cases was from a low of 89 grains to a high of over 110 grains. I tossed that bunch into the recycle can! For target/ varmint use ,I do weigh sort the brass. For plinking, why bother? The .45ACP gets sorted for serious work but mostly just grab a bucket of brass and reload it.

[Jack Stanley]

When I was loading ammo for the Garands I relied on large batches of ammo all the same year and lot number . Generally I didn't want to make the batches of ammo for that larger than about twenty-five hundred rounds . On the other hand the last time I loaded for the forty five ACP I had about fifteen different headstamps . The linage of this brass is about like an alley dog and for what I was doing it was fine . In load workup I stayed below maximum and I'd get at least a couple of each headstamp in the sample for testing . Once I got no leading and decent accuracy the last batch of ACP ammo was just over twelve thousand rounds . More than likely that batch will last me the rest of my life unless I get a C&R for a thompson :Fire:

Jack

[L1A1Rocker]

I seperate everything except .45 ACP.

[fredj338]

For rifle, I separate. For general plinking handgun, I shoot mixed brass. For 44mag hunting or metsil comps, I separate. Brass thickness variation can affect ncek tension & final accuarcy.

[XWrench3]

and the answer is.... it depends. :veryconfu if i am loading practice handgun (other than 380acp) ammo, i never sort it. i do not load anywhere near max pressure, so it is not a saftey issue. on rifle ammo, unless it is plinking ammo, i always sort & weigh every case. hunting ammo, gets the "match" treatment. everything, and anything i can do to make it more accurate is done. i also seal (primers and bullets) all hunting ammo i make.

[Von Gruff]

I seperate into either brand lots or useage lots. I have a reasonable quantity of brass for my main using rifles. With low vel, high volume loads, mid range and high vel hunting loads along with a couple of different J words, most start out in either 50 or 100 round batches to keep track of all the data needed on the containers. I know enough about all my brass so that should a lot become available I will know whether I need it or not.

Von Gruff.

[NSP64]

I seperate for rifle. Only have 2 rifles, each a different caliber, so I neck size only.
Pistols gets mixed HS. (unless I am loading hunting ammo)

[geargnasher]

I seperate everything except .45 ACP.

+1. That's 'cuz I can't shoot my 1911s well enough to tell any difference between a six-inch load and a two-inch load. Everything else gets kept inside marked boxes. I like to know when I trimmed it last, when it was annealed last, which gun it was fired in last, and how many times it's been reloaded.

Gear

[trk]

I just finished sizing, triming and deburring 1000+ .223 Lake City cases and another 250 WInchester cases for prairie dog hunting come Memorial Day. The Win cases will be for the CZ and the LC's for the AR. Most of my shooting is 300-400 yards.

.357 Mag for the Marlin lever action - I sort in two piles - loaded and empty.

[mold maker]

All Rifle is sorted. Handgun, unless for HV, is mixed.

[Von Gruff]

I sort in two piles - loaded and empty.


:2_high5::2_high5::2_high5:

Von Gruff.

[BOOM BOOM]

HI,
When ever I have at least 50 cases, I separate by maker.
This can decrease group size in both pistol at 50 yds. or rifle at 100 yds. by 1".
So it is worth it .
Results because of differing internal case capacity, flash hole, & interior design, and case neck tension.:Fire::Fire:

[Shuz]

I separate both rifle and handgun brass by mfr. I have found that accuracy is improved when I do it for rifles because of case capacity and neck thickness issues and I find it a safety issue when loading for the small .380ACP. The difference in weight has often been more than 10% from one brand of .380ACP to another. Since this case also utilizes small charges of powders such as Bullseye in the 2.0 to 2.5g area, it wouldn't take much to get into trouble quickly. My powder measure drops a 2.5g charge of Bullseye, plus or minus .2g.