Rossi 92 is back together, but still has original problem. Action is stuck closed.

[357shooter]

Figured a new thread might get some help.

At the range, the action wouldn't open, after shooting about 200 rounds.

Took it apart, finally got it back together. I now know much more about how these things work.

It's back together and is still jammed is the issue. No, I didn't do it on purpose either.

Any ideas what it could be?

P.S. Before it jammed it quit extracting the empty cases, a few had to be pulled out by hand. That may help, maybe not.

[Jeff H]

Altough I have had mine a day or two before you got yours, you obviously know far, far more about the internals han I do, with what you have gone through so far. So, humor me as I may ask something that is obvious.

You shot the rifle at the range and it worked - for a while.
Near the end of the session, the extractor started slipping off the cases' rims.
Last round fired, and now the lever won't open or only opens partially?

Did the cases start to extract before the extractor let go or did it pop over the rim while the cases were fully chambered?

Is it possible that the extractor was slipping off because the cases were getting harder to extract (dirty chamber)?

Did you notice when you extracted them manually that they were difficult to get out?

Does the lever open at all - meaning does it start to work and stop?

It's hard to imagine that without the locking lugs withdrawn that the cases being sticky would have anything to do with it locking up on you, but if the lugs clear the bolt and THEN the lever stops, I am wondering if you have a case stuck. I don't know how much leverage you get with the lever or whether it is possible to pop the extractor over the rim with the bolt forward.

[fecmech]

The pin in the bolt that connects the lever could be sliding over and grabbing the hole in the receiver, that will lock the action up solid. Your plug screw should not allow that to happen even if it moves (the pin, and it should not move). Maybe when you tapped it in you forced it against the hole on other side of the receiver??

[357shooter]

Altough I have had mine a day or two before you got yours, you obviously know far, far more about the internals han I do, with what you have gone through so far. So, humor me as I may ask something that is obvious.

You shot the rifle at the range and it worked - for a while.
Near the end of the session, the extractor started slipping off the cases' rims.
Last round fired, and now the lever won't open or only opens partially?

Did the cases start to extract before the extractor let go or did it pop over the rim while the cases were fully chambered?

Is it possible that the extractor was slipping off because the cases were getting harder to extract (dirty chamber)?

Did you notice when you extracted them manually that they were difficult to get out?

Does the lever open at all - meaning does it start to work and stop?

It's hard to imagine that without the locking lugs withdrawn that the cases being sticky would have anything to do with it locking up on you, but if the lugs clear the bolt and THEN the lever stops, I am wondering if you have a case stuck. I don't know how much leverage you get with the lever or whether it is possible to pop the extractor over the rim with the bolt forward.
Thanks for pitching in. The cases were pretty easy to pull out manually, FYI. The lever will move 1 inch or so, that's it. The case I used to reassemble the rifle is in it now, slide in easy. So while that happened at the range, once having cleared it by taking it apart, how would that cause the problem now. Might be a different issue though, so anything is possible. Until it's been identified anyway.

[357shooter]

The pin in the bolt that connects the lever could be sliding over and grabbing the hole in the receiver, that will lock the action up solid. Your plug screw should not allow that to happen even if it moves (the pin, and it should not move). Maybe when you tapped it in you forced it against the hole on other side of the receiver??
Good thought, and easy to test out. Thanks

[357shooter]

That's it! It's working great. The pin wasn't fully seated.

Wow, all the issues were me learning how to do this.

Seems like each gun takes a knack, once you get to know it, it's easier.

I can take it apart and put it together fairly quickly now. Aligning the hammer / trigger holes really does take some pulling & pushing to make it all happen.

I'm going to the range today. YEAH BABY!

Thanks guys, for helping and also bearing with a new-to-rifles neophyte.:drinks::drinks:

[Jeff H]

[smilie=w:

Learning my lessons at your expense, 357 shooter.
I haven't had mine apart yet, so I am finding things to watch for.

[357shooter]

It shot great today. It's really liking the 358477 150 grain SWC. 3.5 grains of 700x and it was very accurate. It's funny, my revolver really doesn't like the lighter bullets, it loves a 200 SWC. That did OK in the Rossi, but the 150 blew it away.

Short range testing as it was indoors at 25 yards.

If/when you tear your down, allow for lot's of time, over a few days. Once you figure it out the instructions become more helpful. Playing with the trigger/hammer assembly outside the gun to understand how it had to move to be positioned correctly helped a bunch. Putting a case into the bolt to get it all to close correctly is critical. Making sure the blocking pin is fully seated is the other big thing

Time for a nap, I have 0 clean 357 brass left. wow

[Jeff H]

.....Time for a nap, I have 0 clean 357 brass left. wow

Being a '92 noob myself, I appreciate all that you have shared.

I realized that I have ONE .357 mold - the 6x190-359 RDO.
I gave the others away some years ago, so I am starting out fresh again and need a good startiung point. Sounds like I need to start with a mid-range, like 140 to 170 and take it from there.

[fecmech]

Jeff --the 190 may work fine at full throttle, you won't know till you try.

[357shooter]

Let us know if the 190 works well and is accurate. It would be good to know. The 200 SWC's was 3.4 of 700x. I plan to try it again w/H110 and see how that works.

[btroj]

Man, this sure makes me like my Marlins more and more. I like the much simpler action design.

Glad you got it working, it sucks to have a mechanical problem and not know what it is or how to fix it. Been there, done that.

Brad

[357shooter]

Thanks, it's not that bad now that I've done it a few times. If the rifle worked like a revolver it would have been much easier...[smilie=s:[smilie=s:

[Jeff H]

Let us know if the 190 works well and is accurate. It would be good to know. The 200 SWC's was 3.4 of 700x. I plan to try it again w/H110 and see how that works.

If I get them to go through the action I will definitely share range results.


Jeff --the 190 may work fine at full throttle, you won't know till you try.

I may even try some loaded singly. If they knock my socks off when I look at the target, I will either shorten some brass or look at mods to the rifle.


Man, this sure makes me like my Marlins more and more. I like the much simpler action design.....Brad

I bought a Marlin once, brought it home tore it apart, fixed what all needed fixing, put it back together and shot it without ever having had one apart or looking at a manual. You aren't kidding - they're great guns and the simplicity is great.

On the other hand, I got the Rossi for $420 new and the one Marlin the shop had on the rack was used, had buggered screws and a $600 price tag. I didn't even bother to look to see if it had a safety at that point. Hang onto your Marlin.

[cajun shooter]

One trick that makes a 92 very easy to tear down and reassemble is to use a empty case when you put it back together. Put the case under the extractor as it should sit when being extracted. This keeps you from trying to hold and line up all the parts. Steve Young AKA Nate Kiowa Jones is known in SASS circles as the 92 Guru. He has a DVD on his forum that shows you the step by step of taking the 92 down and reassembly but it also shows how to modify the action to where it is as slick as butter and may be cycled with one finger. The DVD sells for $20 and is worth every penny. I have owned four 92's and my 45 Colt model would feed and shoot 45 Schofield with no problem after a Steve Young job.

[Jeff H]

.......The DVD sells for $20 and is worth every penny.......

Cheapest accessory yet for the Rossi and probably the most useful.
I will be ordering mine as soon as I finish paying for the Rossi itself.