New tricks for an old dog

[skeet1]

Today I got out my old Lyman 357446 mould and did some casting. The only thing different was the way I cut the sprue. On this forum I have heard guys talking about using gloves and opening the sprue plate by hand. Today I tried this method and found that I like it. What I do is make my cast, wait for the sprue to freeze and then count to 4 and open the sprue plate with the gloved hand. It made a good cut without a nub or a cavity.

Ken

[white eagle]

I am going to have to try that

[Doc Highwall]

When I do that I squeeze the sprue plate down onto the top of the mould and twist at the same time giving a perfect base.

[Bulltipper]

That technique does work really well...

[Walter Laich]

I use that method too, just have to remember to wear my gloves :)

[noylj]

Then there was the guy on this forum who bought his first mold. It didn't have handles, so he just thought he had to hold the blocks together. Did his casting all "by hand" until he discovered other molds with handles.

[geargnasher]

When I do that I squeeze the sprue plate down onto the top of the mould and twist at the same time giving a perfect base.

+1, I learned that trick from a post Daniel from The Bullshop made some time ago. If you're using a mould that drops the boolits with no tapping, it's really a joy because no tools required, just fill, watch, flick, open, dump, close, flick, fill. I tend to cut the sprue early, meaning "just" after the sprue makes it's shift from shiny to dull, of course it depends on the alloy too. If the bases aren't sucking in after the boolits cool on a towel I'm golden, but if they're cut too soon they will have a crystalline crater right in the middle after a couple of minutes on the towel.

Gear

[Bret4207]

Someone was making an add on handle for sprue plates recently that negated the need for a glove. I was always keen to try one (sheesh, I'm starting to talk like Dromia!) but never got aroundtuit. Seems like a good idea for easy cutting moulds.

[LeeRoy]

I only have one mould at the time, I have started to use a gloved have to cut the spur with. So far it works for me. I never did like using a stick on the spur plate. I read about it on this site.

Thanks for shearing.

LeeRoy

[462]

When I do that I squeeze the sprue plate down onto the top of the mould and twist at the same time giving a perfect base.

Yep, that's exactly how I do it.

[gray wolf]

It took me a few fill ups ---but once I got the rhythm going I found it to be a nice way to open the mold.

Sam

[bbqncigars]

All you need are decent leather work gloves. Nothing fancy/insulated. I did this on the maiden run of my SB PP mould today. Works great! If you're feeling some uncomfortable heat through the gloves, you're doing something wrong. Compared to hitting the sprue plate with a stick, gloves is handy. :-)


Wayne

[steg]

You mean I don't need my ball peen hammer anymore, LOL, Actually i've never tried out the thumb cut, but I'm gonna next time I cast........................steg

[Cooperwin]

Since you are already wearing gloves while casting ( safety, right? ) it's a natural to open the sprue with your gloved hand. It does work easier with small diameter sprue holes or softer lead though. My best mold for this method is a DC 452484. It's faster than shucking peas.

[Southern Son]

I have found that I can open the sprue plate with the palm of my gloved hand, while I am still holding an old hammer handle, and then I can tap the hinge pin with the hammer handle. When I do this, the boolits jump out of mould.