What size caps?

[2ndAmendmentNut]

Just a quick question…

I picked up a 36cal Uberti 1851 Navy today. Beautiful piece, but am just wondering if I use #10 or #11 caps with it?

[docone31]

I use #10 caps.

[Hellgate]

I would recommend REMINGTON #10 caps. The CCI #10s and the RWS (#1055) are way smaller and might be very hard to seat (especially the RWS). The Remingtons are much more forgiving and if too big can be pinched a little out of round to stay on while you get the next size down. The taper of the cones/nipples will determine which size cap will fit. My stock Pietta and ASM made nipples all take the Rem#10 nicely. So do the replacement nipples from Uncle Mike's/Butler Creek, Treso, and Track of the Wolf Stainless nipples.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

For the 5 millionth time, pinching revolver caps is a poor expedient as it means the CAPS DO NOT FIT THE NIPPLE CORRECTLY. Caps should fit down on the cone, snugly in diameter.

Since chamber crossfires mostly occur from the flame of cap ignition lighting off adjacent chambers where the caps do not fit, you just set up you own future problem. Caps should fit the nipple snugly with the prime at the top edge of the cone.

But then, it is your hand. Now you have been advised.

BvT

[2ndAmendmentNut]

Thanks guys.

[2ndAmendmentNut]

So what size nipple wrench do I need? All the ones I have seen clearly say "for #11 caps."

[Mk42gunner]

So what size nipple wrench do I need? All the ones I have seen clearly say "for #11 caps."

That will probably work. If it doesn't, a nipple wrench is not very hard to make. One I did years ago I used a piece of round stock (old bolt) center drilled it to fit over the nipple, then filed the slot and used a cross pin to turn it with. It worked as well as any that I bought.

Robert

[mooman76]

You need one with plenty of clearance because it's allot tighter on pistols than rifles. They usually say for pistols on them and like MK42 said you can make one easy or improvise if you have some small wrenches.

[Hellgate]

A "revolver nipple wrench" should fit most revolvers except the ROAs that use hexagonal nipples. I think the distinction is so you don't buy a nipple wrench for nipples that take a musket cap. There are all kinds of replacement nipples to confuse you like those to replace a musket cap nipple for one that takes a #11 cap which probably would not be removeable by a revolver nip wrench. A revolver wrench should remove any of the nipples from the 36 & 44 Colt & Remington revolvers except maybe not the Walker and Dragoon nipples. I can't remember if they take a different (larger) wrench or not.

[GabbyM]

To fit a cap I’d say take a nipple into your local shop and give one a try.
Most revolvers call for a #10 cap. Check the manual. it’s a diameter thing not a power factor.

Last year I bought 1K CCI #11 caps for my rifle. My 1860 revolver had a new set of nipples on it and I’m all out of the old Rem #10 caps I used to shoot on it. The CCI #11 fit real tight on these new nipples. Don’t know if the new nipples are larger or the caps are different. So I still don’t know squat. But I have a thousand caps that fit both guns.

As far as cross fires go I’m not sure why people get all safety blind about it. I must have had a hundred. All it did was frustrate me. Certainly an issue to be avoided but it’s no big deal as far as safety. If I’ve missed the horror pictures maybe someone can enlighten me.

[northmn]

When I look at my Remington and Colt repos the nipples are recessed in a shield such that any flash would be vented out. Also Remington caps tended to shatter and there would likely be a little blow back from the charge. Things work better using tighter fitting caps and they stay on better. Also in many matches, range rules stated that a revolver be loaded single shot on bullseye targets such that cap size would not matter. I have yet to see a revolver cross fire and I have seen a lot of them shot. They happen and I am not denying it. When I shot rapid fire revolver the biggest problem was with shattered caps jamming up the action.
I have some #10 that I used in revolvers, and suggest that if you buy caps just for revolvers use what fits. #11 fit almost universally on rifles.

DP

[GabbyM]

Excessive cylinder to barrel gap on my old stretched out 1860 is what was lighting mine off. At least that’s what I blamed it on. Plus the cylinders need honed smoother and pure lead instead of the half hard scrap I was using. All to get a better seal of ball to cylinder.

[Hellgate]

Northmn,
You said: "#11 fit almost universally on rifles.". I think the much heavier hammer fall on the rifles prevents misfires. The C&Bs we use in SASS/CAS matches often have lightened mainsprings and if the cap rides a little high we can get cap dragging and misfires when the first hammer blow merely further seats the high cap. The rifles tend to smack the cap down and ignite it all in one whack. When the cap doesn't go off in the pistols we're looking for a better (closer) fit so the cap must be fully seated for reliability. The rifles are more forgiving.

[JIMinPHX]

When the cap doesn't go off in the pistols we're looking for a better (closer) fit so the cap must be fully seated for reliability.

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=98354

[northmn]

Northmn,
You said: "#11 fit almost universally on rifles.". I think the much heavier hammer fall on the rifles prevents misfires. The C&Bs we use in SASS/CAS matches often have lightened mainsprings and if the cap rides a little high we can get cap dragging and misfires when the first hammer blow merely further seats the high cap. The rifles tend to smack the cap down and ignite it all in one whack. When the cap doesn't go off in the pistols we're looking for a better (closer) fit so the cap must be fully seated for reliability. The rifles are more forgiving.

Generally the rifle nipples permit a #11 cap as to snug fit. I have been using Remington caps now for some time as they are mostly available and I prefer their lighter skirt which seems to split on ignition. Some of the other caps I had used almost needed a pliers to remove after firing (some did require a knife). Also on the range and for hunting I would seat the cap on a rifle by lowering the hammer and using it as a press before resetting it to half cock. As to hammer fall. I had one lock that required a new mainspring to reliably ignite caps but generally I had fixed many problems by placing a nipple lightly in a drill chuck so as not to hurt the threads and turning down the top with a small file. Often removed the dinging one gets from a mushroomed nipple tip.
As to lightened springs on revolvers. I always used the ones with the gun and had little problem, but have found that brands of caps can make a difference as to reliability of ignition. Some fit tighter and seem to have a "harder" shell than others. One cheap brand I bought would leak out the priming when carried in the tin. Lot to be said for using what works.

DP