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View Full Version : Lee 10 lb. pot heat settings-What's yours?



blasternank
02-20-2011, 08:54 PM
My dad has a lee 10 lb. pot, 110 v., 4" space underneath furnace. He was wondering what setting most are using to get a good consistent temperature that works well with casting. He is making some big .510" bullets and also some 230 gr. 45 acp and some 124 gr. 9mm(I think).

So what are your settings and why-if you have a specific reason for it?

Thanks.

arjacobson
02-20-2011, 08:57 PM
I run mine on 10 until it heats up nice. Then I usually turn down to 7-8. At about 7 it runs about 650-700 degrees

runfiverun
02-20-2011, 09:00 PM
since they are adjustble and run on a contact thingy my 7 could be your 9.
just go for a temp that works you probably need hotter for 9mm and much less for the big one.

462
02-20-2011, 09:11 PM
There's not a one-size-fits-all answer, unfortunately.

Different pots will run at different temperatures, different moulds -- aluminum, brass, iron -- will require different settings. Even if all your moulds are of the same material and have the same number of cavities, it's possible each one will cast its best at a setting that's different from the others. Ambient temperature plays a very critical role, too.

Experience will be your best answer.

stubshaft
02-20-2011, 10:07 PM
I use my 10# pot to preheat alloy for my 20# pot when casting 510's. My boolits weigh 580gr and that will drain a 10# in no time at all. FWIW - I set the 10 pounder at #6, but like 462 said it does not represent an accurate means of reflecting temperature.

geargnasher
02-20-2011, 10:14 PM
The "thermostat" in the Lee pots are in the body of the unit, where the temp knob is, and not in the pot housing, so the temperature of the room greatly affects it. If it's 40 degrees ambient your setting 7 might be 850, and if it's 90 then 7 might be 600. Lots of variance between individual models and individual pots, too.

The only way to know for sure is buy a thermometer that can handle the temps of our alloys. Tel-Tru makes a good one, in fact I think they make them all (RCBS, Lyman, etc.) but you can buy directly from Tel-Tru and get them for about a third of the price. One of our vendors here, SwedeNelson of NOE, was selling some in the vendor sponsor area a while back, may be still. I got one of his for a backup, you might check it out.

Gear

mooman76
02-20-2011, 10:25 PM
I usually run mine at 6 1/2 but like the others have said it's different for different moulds, situations and even the speed at which you cast. Find what works for you. It should take about 3-5 second for the sprue puddle to cool. Then you are in the right range.

bhn22
02-20-2011, 10:56 PM
LEE pots aren't that sophisticated. Use a thermometer to set your temperature, the number are for reference only, and the temps vary greatly from pot to pot.

RobS
02-20-2011, 11:50 PM
A thermometer will be the most efficient way to tell what you are doing since the rheostat (the adjustable turning knob that regulates the temps of the pot) has many variables as been mentioned. I have sense made my Lee pot more consistent by wiring the element direct (by passing the rheostat) and using a router speed control unit I picked up at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
I still use a thermometer though.

nes4ever69
02-21-2011, 01:21 AM
ill set my lee pot on 6-7 till everything is melted, for my lee molds ill set it at 4. my lyman mold ill keep it at 6. when i get employed again im getting a thermometer.

the lee pot works on a bimetal strip that detects under the knob, not the pot. it just open's and close's as it senses in the houseing. by design it is a cheap way to have some kind of temperature controll. its not perfect, but atleast it will cycle the heating element off so it's not on constant.

i once set it on 2 and it still melted the whole pot, granted it took about an hour vs 20 minutes. good way to work out then cast boolits.

dualsport
02-21-2011, 01:35 AM
8-9. Hot works for me, frosted boolits are fine, fillout is good, no voids. My Lee 10 pounder is 25 yrs. old, used plenty, and going strong. Might even run it on 10 for little bitty boolits, like .22 and 6mm.

Whistler
02-21-2011, 11:50 AM
Don't you guys get problems with the alloy separating when raising the heat that much?

Doby45
02-21-2011, 11:53 AM
You done gone and done it now..

dualsport
02-21-2011, 03:42 PM
My technique is not that sophisticated and I could get seperation and not know it. I flux with candle wax and go to it, boolits come out real nice, but frosty.

gray wolf
02-21-2011, 04:50 PM
I will post here simply for a post count.
Why? because it has been covered very well,
Go with the seat of your pants--or get a thermometer.
I hope to get one soon from Tell True.

Ole
02-21-2011, 07:34 PM
When the pot is full I run it around 6 or 7 but little by little turn it down to 4 or 5 as the pot empties.

IV-20lb if it matters.

Whistler
03-01-2011, 10:55 AM
8-9. Hot works for me, frosted boolits are fine, fillout is good, no voids. My Lee 10 pounder is 25 yrs. old, used plenty, and going strong. Might even run it on 10 for little bitty boolits, like .22 and 6mm.

Just wanted to thank you for that post.
When casting this weekend I turned my pot up from my usual 7 to 10 on the dial.

I have always has trouble with improper fillout with my WW and thought I'd have to have tin added to fix it. With the heat up I got beautiful sharp edges on those boolits with nice shoulders and lube grooves. I kept stirring with a wooden stick (which seems to work as a fluxing device btw), because I am not knowledgeable about the whole "separating alloy" business.

jonk
03-01-2011, 03:50 PM
For wheelweights usually around 8. For pure lead, 10.

Donor8x56r
03-04-2011, 06:53 AM
I had some good results with setting down to 6-7 ,but that was last summer with very hot days.

I still had to start with 9 just to get mould hot enough.

Floydster
03-04-2011, 12:05 PM
I turn my pot to high until I get a good melt, then flux and turn down the heat till I reach btwn. 625/675 degress, that woks the best for me using 50/50.
I don't pay any attention to the no. settings----they don't mean anything.

Mike W1
03-04-2011, 02:50 PM
Just wanted to thank you for that post.
When casting this weekend I turned my pot up from my usual 7 to 10 on the dial.

I have always has trouble with improper fillout with my WW and thought I'd have to have tin added to fix it. With the heat up I got beautiful sharp edges on those boolits with nice shoulders and lube grooves. I kept stirring with a wooden stick (which seems to work as a fluxing device btw), because I am not knowledgeable about the whole "separating alloy" business.

Just how would you go about "separating alloy" anyhow? It's an alloy and once it is it doesn't separate. Another old wives tale.

454PB
03-04-2011, 04:08 PM
A thermometer will be the most efficient way to tell what you are doing since the rheostat (the adjustable turning knob that regulates the temps of the pot) has many variables as been mentioned. I have sense made my Lee pot more consistent by wiring the element direct (by passing the rheostat) and using a router speed control unit I picked up at Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html
I still use a thermometer though.

A rheostat is a variable resistor, and your router speed control matches that description. The Lee thermostat uses a bi-metal strip that is either "on" or "off".