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View Full Version : learning curve for a 5 cav?



troy_mclure
02-17-2011, 11:14 PM
ive got a new aluminum noe 5c 200gr .401 mould.

im having problems keeping the mould properly heated. it seems like one 1/2 of the mould is not heating as fast, or is cooling too fast.

i have 1/2 of a boolit that has sharp edges, and 1/2 that is rounded edges.

i know the mould casts great boolits because i am getting 35% good boolits.

any ideas or tips on how to get a better reject rate?

RobS
02-17-2011, 11:32 PM
Pre-heat your mold on a hotplate works well and alternating ends when filling helps even out the heat.

btroj
02-17-2011, 11:54 PM
I dip the end of the mould in the melt for 30 seconds or so. Then cast pretty quick.
Sounds like you have wrinkles on one side, not on the other? If so, it may be some oil still coming out of the metal. I found with a couple of my NOE moulds it takes a few casting cycles for the mould to settle down. Degrease that mould and give it another try. My 311165 had a similar problem. Once I got all the oil out and learned to get it got I got great bullets fast.

Brad

Wayne S
02-18-2011, 01:09 AM
Pre-heat your mold on a hotplate works well and alternating ends when filling helps even out the heat.

DITTO on this OR set the mold on top of the pot for about 5 Min. before you start to cast. Plus give it another good cleaning . I use a spray engine cleaning agent that foams, let it set for about 5 Min. then wash it away useing brake cleaner

Dale53
02-18-2011, 01:25 AM
I have an NOE five cavity mould for a clone of the Lyman 454424 250 gr Keith bullet. It casts beautifully.

I have a hot plate sitting next to my lead pot. I pre-heat the mould on my hotplate while my bullet metal is heating. When the lead pot is up to temperature, my mould is up to temperature. I try to heat the mould until it is just one mould full from perfect results (that insures that I won't overheat my mould).

I also have a 7" manicurist's fan (small fan that women use to dry their nails - $7.00 or so at Target Store or Walmart). I have it fastened just about a foot or less above the surface of my casting bench. This rapidly cools my sprue (2-3 seconds before cutting) and also helps to maintain mould temperature.

I can cast 20 lbs of finished, match quality, bullets in just about an hour of actual casting time.

Do as others suggest and carefully clean the mould again, pre-heat and start casting.

Good luck!
Dale53

redneckdan
02-18-2011, 01:30 AM
I have found that NOE moulds need a good 4-6 heat cycles in order to work. After that they work really well. My first NOE was the 311041 buy. The first time I cast it I was rather pissed with the results. But it got better each time until the 4th or 5th time it cast perfect. Ever since they I heat cycle them a couple times on the kitchen stove before I even bother trying to cast them. Works like a charm. Not sure what it is, could be the cutting fluid they use.

troy_mclure
02-18-2011, 04:31 PM
its really clean. its just on one side of the mould. the lube grove edges are are rounded instead of sharp.

btroj
02-18-2011, 09:09 PM
Like redneck dan my first NOE mould was a pain the first couple of casting sessions. After it broke in I love it. Go clean your mould again, can't get it too clean, and cast with it again. Let is know how it goes. Some moulds just need a few cycles to settle down.

clodhopper
02-18-2011, 11:00 PM
My thought is the heating/cooling cycles cook the cutting fluid out of the pores of the mould. Could be the mould you have Troy is a little more porous on the half that casts poorly.

oscarflytyer
02-19-2011, 12:54 AM
Lee alum 6 cav mold - had same problem. Then RTFM and some tips here!!! Amazing how many problems THAT can solve.

Try this. Worked very well for me. Start with JUST the very first cavity nearest the handles. Once you get it hot and casting a good bullet, move to the next cavity, and so on. I also sit mine on a steel plate near my heat source ( I cast on a coleman stove and dip). It will allow me to go two cavities at a time.