The truth about Brass framed C&B revolvers?

[2ndAmendmentNut]

So what is the deal when it comes to brass framed C&B guns? I have very limited experience when it comes to C&Bs but I do want one. Almost every where I here how I should avoid brass frames, and I was wondering if there was any real truth behind this. Yes true brass is not as strong as steel, but C&B guns are relatively low pressure, so I am wondering if the difference in strength really matters.

[mooman76]

Just don't do allot of full power or heavy loads in it. It tends to loosen the frame. Otherwise you should be fine with it.

[waksupi]

Yep, heavy loads will stretch the frame.

[wellfedirishman]

As the posters above said, use light loads (from what I have read, 18 grains of FF black powder is plenty) in brass framed guns.

I have steel guns in which I regularly shoot 30 grains, but in brass I limit it to under 20.

For putting holes in paper, light loads are fine. No point stretching the frame of a nice brass gun.

[Hellgate]

The admonishment I saw in the box from the last Pietta I bought was a slip of paper warning me to not exceed 25 grains of BP or sub in brass framed guns or it would lessen the life of the gun. I've read posts of one or two people who have said they shoot 30grs BP in their brass framed Colts all the time and so far, so good. I'd bet there are 20:1 more folks who own paper weights that did the same thing. I might shoot an occasional 25 gr round ball load in mine but basically I shoot 20 grs all the time. Also do not use hard lead balls or heavier conicals as they can also stretch the frame or pull the cylinder pin loose either from hard loading or as the ball/conical goes down the barrel when fired. The Brass framed Remingtons should last a lot longer than a brass Colt but I can see some wear on the frame from a steady diet of heavy loads that wouldn't occur with a steel frame.

[Dframe]

Heavy loads tend to loosen the basepin where it enters the recoil shield. They should be avoided in open top guns like the Colt designs. Remington copies can safely handle more but I would still take it easy on them. I used a brass framed remington copy for many years for target competition without the slightest problem. My standard load was about 20 grains of 2F.

[NickSS]

Personally I have a brass frame navy colt in 44 cal that I won off a prize table at a Rendezvous several years ago. I have used it with 30 gr loads but only shoot it very seldom as it is not one of my favorite pistols. Personally after several hundred full power loads it is still as tight as the day I picked it up. I suspect that at the rate I use it it will be good to go for about 30 years so I will probably be dead long before it will be so I am not worried.

[fryboy]

while brass isnt as strong as steel as noted above i'm not one to push it , using 12 grains of powder and an equal amount of grits was my first ever attempt at reduced loads ( in a .44 cal.), this did two things , one it saved powder and for a poor boy who would work for powder growing up that meant alot , two , heavy loads mite work for self defense but rarely work well for target work , want more power ? get a bigger gun , i wouldnt avoid a brass frame if the price was right or the only one within my means but also wouldnt try to abuse it nor push my luck doing so , some original guns had brass frames especially during the hard pressed years of the civil war but i'm sure that here was a reason why most were made of steel when possible

[Alan]

I would also use FFg instead of FFFg. Most of my C&B's seem to prefer FFg for accuracy when loaded a little heavy, but it's not a huge difference. In a brass frame, FFg will produce significantly lower pressure, at the cost of a little bit of velocity, and THAT is what you are after. Keep it light, and keep it slow. 8)

[oldhickory]

Brass frames simply aren't correct for most c&b revolvers to begin with. Original Colt, Remington, Whitney, Star, Rogers&Spencer, etc. All used iron/steel frames. The only originals I can think of right now that used brass are all Confederate copies of Northern revolvers, and these, (I beleive) are all .36 caliber which would have used a standard load of 17gr. of powder. The few Confederate revolvers made with iron frames used the same 17gr. ammunition for .36 revolvers, (Federal ammunition also called for .36 revolver cartridges to be loaded with 17gr. of powder also).

[mooman76]

I bought a 36 from a friend that had worked loose thinking I could fix it. I never did fix it and I thought I could just get a replacement frame but that cost almost as much as a new gun so I made a wall hanger out of it. It still functioned fine though and after a couple shots it tightened right up. I asked him how much powder he used and he said he just filled the cylinders so I don't know how much that is but I'm sure it 's a bit much.
It took me a while to figure out what actually loosened up but it was the shaft that holds the cyl, it came loose from the brass frame.

[Hellgate]

I've heard tell (sounds professional, huh?) that you can drill out the retaining pin, unscrew the arbor from the frame, put either permanent Locktite, JB Weld, or epoxy on the threads and rescrew it back into the frame with the barrel installed to line things up and let it set. Never done it but that's what I heard tell. ;>)

[Rebel Dave]

Why waste your money on a brass frame future junker, just spend a little more, and get a steel, or iron frame one, and be done with it. you will probably sleep better also.

Rebel Dave

[2ndAmendmentNut]

Thank you for all the input.

[lathesmith]

Steel-frame BP revolvers are not only generally more period correct, stronger, and easier to keep clean, but they hold their value much better than a comparable brass frame gun. Why fool with brass at all, unless you are looking to pick up a wall-hanger or very occasional light load shooter?

lathesmith

[jh45gun]

Get Steel as noted above brass stretches and makes a junker ask me how I know this.