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robertbank
11-15-2006, 04:16 PM
Range Report
RCBS Pr-Melt Electric Lead Furance

Well it arrived last week by mail. After some negotiations with “she who knows best” I was able to open the box before Christmas and set up my new casting machine.

So let’s start with the Instruction manual. Having no mechanically ability at all this is usually the part I ignore. I mean it just isn’t a manly thing to do, right? Well at the urging of my better half, who has watched me in action for the past 36 years, I decided to turn pride aside and actually read the set up instructions. Good thing I did!

Well the first page deals with all the legal disclaimers and for those who have never cast before some valuable information. Since I have never had the urge to eat while casting and given the kids am long gone, most the first page made sense and generally follows my usual casting practices.

Installation instructions are clear and easy to follow. The nozzle shut off pin tip comes encased in a rubber covering you remove BEFORE attempting to install. OK I sometimes skim read.

The "To Use" section MUST be read. You have to set the machine to allow the pilot light to come on at it’s lowest setting – it is marked and wait for 15 minutes. After that you add lead until you have about 1.5” of molten lead. (Note the metric police obviously aren’t casters or they would be all over this like a dirty shirt.) At that point you can crank the machine up and add lead. Furnace holds 22 lbs of lead of which about 20 lbs. is useable as you should not reduce lead levels below the 1.5” mark.

Well I got by that all right, now for the casting. I have used a Lee 10# Production Pot up until now and there were some interesting variables to deal with in making the transition. First the spout is just a tad further back in the RCBS melter and I found it takes sometime to get used to the pour using four cavity molds as the angle from a sitting position changes making it slightly more difficult to see when you have filled the mold. No a major issue but one I ran into right off. The other thing I found is the arm you rest the mold on is a godsend. It is much easier to control the casting using it as opposed to the unsupported Lee set up. The flow adjustment screw works but getting the right amount of flow seems to me to be an art form as opposed to a science. I know I’ll figure it out in time. Oh and the good news the machine does not LEAK or drip, yet.

Well I have cast over 500 bullets to date and my only gripe is the finish on the furnace. Lead sticks to it like glue. RCBS, paint your equipment green but don’t stipple paint your furnaces. I’m not into pretty here. Suspect few are.

I had to set my machine up in the garage as my outside outlets won’t take the draw – outlets have the built in safety thingy to prevent yours truly from electrocuting himself, a distinct possibility given my aforementioned mechanical ability. Following a tip from one of our members I built a stand for my Production pot, reversed the pot on the stand and bolted it down. I keep about five lbs. of lead stacked at the back to ensure the weight of a full pot won’t cause the top pot from tipping over on my lap. Not at all likely but you never know. Might be worth my while to buy a angle bracket and screw the stand down. Think I will do that before I cast again.

Man does it work slick. If I just owned a Pro-Melter I would buy a Production Pot just for this purpose. As I cast I add sprue to the Production Pot. When I get down to about half full I, after fluxing the top pot, pour the contents into the Pro-Melter, flux the bottom pot and carry on. By doing so the casting process is virtually continuous. What a difference between my casting with the 10# pot and using the 20# Pro-Melter and on top of that using the 10# Pot as a pre-heater my casting times have been cut significantly or put another way my production rate has climbed.

Was it worth it? Yes, for me it was. There just is no comparing my set up before to what it is now. I am not saying this is a must have but it certainly is nice to have.

I have included pictures of my set up. If you look closely you will note my inept mechanical ability is not surpassed by my carpentry skills but I do make a good cup of coffee.

For the Canadians on the forum total bill from Graf & Sons was:

$268.39 US @ 1.12 $300.60 Pro-Melt Furnace
$ 34.80 US @ 1.12 $ 38.98 Postage
$ 39.65 Cdn $ 39.65 GST & PST
$ 5.00 Cdn $ 5.00 Canada Post Customs Clearance

Total $384.23 Cdn.*

*For my American friends, “You don’t have to be crazy to live up here but it helps”.

Take Care

Bob

Hunter
11-15-2006, 06:37 PM
Looks like you got yourself a real nice set up my friend. Thanks for your help eariler, got 18 more pounds poured into ingots. The fan idea really helped.

dragonrider
11-15-2006, 07:05 PM
Well done Bob. looks like a great setup.

9.3X62AL
11-15-2006, 07:45 PM
Bob--

Thanks for the pics of your "piggy-back" set-up. I have read and heard of such things, but my not-so-sharp-as-it-used-to-be mental imaging didn't permit me to visualize such an arrangement. DUH!!

The RCBS Pro-Melt is one of the tools with which I have had the most satisfaction since its acquisition. It just flat WORKS.

robertbank
11-15-2006, 08:22 PM
Thanks fellows. I was initially concerned about the drip splashing lead but that has proven not to be the case. Pouring too was a concern but as it turns out it is kind of like pouring milk accept the foam hardens right away and there is no splash at all. One thing if you decide to do this conversion with the Lee the screws are of two different lengths that hold the top to the base. Just note which hole they come out of when you go to screw them back in.

Take Care

Bob

kodiak1
11-15-2006, 08:42 PM
Hey Bob makes me jellous. Looks good and very neat to.
Ken.

carpetman
11-15-2006, 10:48 PM
I am confused. What's new? Pilot light? I thought it was an electric furnace. Please explain the pilot light.

robertbank
11-15-2006, 10:58 PM
The Pilot Light refered to is just the on off switch that glows red when the system is applying heat. When you start with a dry furnace you turn the dial to the "Pilot Light" setting which is the lowest setting on the dial. You wait 15 minutes then add "small pieces of scrap lead or ingots untl you have approximately 1" to 1.5" of molton lead in the melting pot." Once you have that melted you can then add more lead and turn the dial to the settng you want. The instructions also tell you not to allow the pot to empty out beyond the 1" to 1.5" level. I presume that consumes about 2 lbs of metal leaving you about 20 lbs. of alloy to work with, hence the 20# pot label.

The pilot light (On/Off switch) does not glow once the pot reaches the temperature setting you have turned the dial to but does come on again as the temp. falls below that setting.

Take Care

Bob

BruceB
11-15-2006, 11:24 PM
Instructions??? WHAT instructions???

I've had my Pro-Melt for at least fifteen years, and I don't recall any instructions being included with it. Wonderful machine, though, and it has seen literally tons of alloy over those years.

My normal routine is to leave the pot plumb full of frozen alloy when I stop a casting run. Next time I want to use it, I just turn on the switch with the temp control at absolute maximum (which is where I do my casting, anyway). Efficient melting the next time around is assured by the alloy being in intimate contact with the sides of the pot, and hence wasting very little energy to the air. Sometimes I even put a steel-plate "lid" over the pot to speed the process. Then, I go away and do something useful while waiting- maybe even have a BEER. This has worked well since I first got the furnace.

I see nothing wrong with the above routine, because 800 watts is 800 watts, and that's what the element is going to draw until it reaches the selected operating temperature. No extra wear-and-tear or other nasties should result.

Seems to me those instructions offer nothing but needless complications.....musta been written by some cut-rate snake-oil lawyer.

powderburnerr
11-16-2006, 12:15 AM
Bruce B how do you arrive at "frozen alloy" do you inter it in as freezer or do you just "ice" it down. inquiring minds want to know.............Dean

Ringer
11-16-2006, 08:05 AM
Directions and parts list can be printed from www.rcbs.com . I thought I had bought a dripper, but upon removing the lead from the pot, I found the flow control valve to have a bent stem. Called RCBS, new one is on the way-N.C.
The directions with parts list helped me to describe the part to the customer relations person. Ringer

robertbank
11-16-2006, 10:17 AM
I think the idea of the "Pilot Light" really only involves the melter when it is empty when you start out or if you empty the pot to clean the stem. What I did notice when I started the machine the first time is the base gets red hot using the Pilot Light and it burns off whatever finish RCBS puts on the interior of the pot to prevent, I assume, oxidation of the interior of the pot prior to the unit being sold. Just a guess.

It is so unlike me to read instructions before attempting to assemble that this was a bit of a first. As mechanically inept as I am I always seemed to want to demonstrate my deficiency in front of the family before relenting and having my two boys and wife sit down and assemble the various toys and stuff one buys when one has a growing family. My system seemed to work as both sons are vary mechanically inclined, wife doesn't bug me about fixing stuff around the house as she has developed mechanical skills and I get to spend more time golfing, shooting and casting. Nice when a long term plan come comes together.:mrgreen:

Take Care

Bob

Springfield
12-01-2006, 02:05 PM
I think the purpose of the 1.5 " of lead in a not turned up all the way port is to keep you from burnng the pot up the first time. You don't have to do this everytime. I just leave a full pot when I am done and just turn on the pot until it is melted the next time I cast. I have been ladling from a 20' Lee into my RCBS, but I may just have to go with the setup shown.

nvbirdman
12-02-2006, 01:13 AM
With the weather they're getting in Winnemucca these days Bruce B could just leave his melting pot outside overnight and have "frozen alloy" in the morning.

9.3X62AL
12-02-2006, 11:31 AM
I also leave varying levels of alloy in the furnace when I finish casting, at least half-full on most such occasions.

My usual routine is to crank the heat up full value at the start and get the alloy going at that temp--add in my enriching elements (foundry type, about 1:8 with the projected WW vacancy) and blend those elements by stirring at full temp. I next back the thermostat off to my usual casting temp range (675*) and add in enough WW ingots to top off the pot. The light often clicks off seconds after I crank the dial down. I start pouring within a minute or so, after giving the newly-melted WW ingots a stir-in and a flux or two. The alloy is probably a little hotter than I prefer at this time, and I use that excess heat to warm the mold blocks up to good casting temperature.

BruceB
12-02-2006, 07:44 PM
If icecream is stiff, it's frozen.

If it's runny, it's melted.

Same applies to bullet alloys, except of course that it "freezes" at maybe 500 degrees or so.

We now return you to our regularly-scheduled program.

MGySgt
12-03-2006, 12:11 AM
Bob - Excellent write up.

I might just have to try a bottom pour again!

Drew