Carbon Cleaners?

[1Shirt]

Am interested in recommendations based upon experiance of what worked best for you for the removal of carbon?
1Shirt!:coffee:

[HammerMTB]

Can you be more specific? carbon from the bore of a barrel? From the gas tube of an AR? From the action and rails of an AR? Some things are better done by scraping, while others, because of location, need to be dissolved.

[Silent]

Good question, I'm interested in the answer myself.

I've used carburetor cleaner in the past but it doesn't work as well as I'd like in the tight recesses of a .357 Pythons cylinder pin.

[44man]

I use a lot of Hoppe's to start but M-Pro 7 was developed for the military and cannons. It is like soap, water based, foams with a brush and will take off almost all carbon. You can rinse with water. I use a brass brush with it on the rings in the front of a cylinder and it takes almost all carbon off.

[HighHook]

;)+1 on the M-pro 7

[Jailer]

I've had pretty good luck with Slip2000 carbon killer.

[Bass Ackward]

This is a trick question. Do you mean functional removal such as after firing 38s in a 357 chamber?

Or total removal as if a stainless gun has never been fired?

I clean functionally and mix up left over auto stuff that is high detergent. 2 cycle oil is about as strong a detergent as it gets and add some ATF to thin it down.

That combo is thick enough to stay 360 and will never dry. Just leave it in as long as you want and patch it out right before you intend to shoot.

Especially good for revolver chambers.

[1Shirt]

Barrels & Chambers! Use to use steel wool on the end of a garand operating rod. It worked but would have caught merry what ever if we had ever been caught doing it.:coffeecom
1Shirt!

[btroj]

I like the TM solution. Let it soak overnight and it will get out lots of carbon. Pretty darn good on copper too. Not much odor, doesn't evaporate fast either. Just keep it off the stock, it can remove finish.

I will try to get you some this week. I really like it.

[SciFiJim]

I was cleaning the barrel of an old Mauser (8x57). After going through a bottle of Hoppes, 4 bronze brushes and a large stack of patches, I had an inspiration. I wrapped copper chore boy threads around one of the worn brushes and dunked the brush in GOJO hand cleaner. After running it back and forth a few times, the goop pushed out looked like I was cleaning an engine block. It is still not completely clean yet, but another session should finish up the job.

[nes4ever69]

ive had some luck recently with break free. notice some some of the stubborn carbon on my 629 did come off with a little soaking. its not perfect, but better then it was.

[hiram]

try NAPA carb, choke, and throttle body cleaner

[waksupi]

I've also used the hand cleaner on barrels. Even removes moly, if you experiment with that.

I'm wondering how the citrus cleaner would work on this job? If it is working on brass, a fairly strong solution may be just the thing on a funky barrel.

[1Shirt]

Thanks guys! Good info and excellent references.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[captaint]

Be careful using the carb & choke cleaners, as they strip ALL the oils out of your metal. You'll have rust soon in a damper environment. Just don't let em sit too long without some wiping with oil. enjoy Mike

[chboats]

I use Ed's Red for all my gun cleaning, except copper which I haven't shot in several years. Have never been disapointed. Some times it has to soak for a while but it always works.

Carl

[tonyjones]

+1 for Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. It works better than anything else I've tried whether patching or soaking. For the ring that forms ahead of a rifles throat I use bore paste (USP, Iosso, JB - be careful here!) on a patch wrapped aroubd a worn brush.
Tony

[skeet1]

I'm with chboats (Carl) and I use Ed's Red also and it is a great carbon buster. If you have never tried it look it up on the internet and mix up a batch you wont be disappointed. Economical also.

Ken