How to fill my new flask

[coopieclan]

What is the correct funnel to fill a "Traditions" flask?
I just got a Remington style flask from GunBroker.com
The flask has a 25 and a 15 Gr spout.
I don't want to be spilling powder all over the place.
Usually I shop at Dixie or Midway. Also Dick's Sporting Goods and Ramsey Outdoors.
I hope there is a funnel that threads right into the flask.
It says you can pull the whole top off. I just don't want to lose the screws.
Coopieclan

[405]

I guess there are "dedicated" screw in type funnels but I have always used a small plastic funnel. I unscrew the brass spout from the flask and use a funnel that has a spout small enough to barely fit inside the threaded hole. Then just lightly turn the funnel into the threads for a snug fit. Then slowly pour the powder into the funnel while lightly tapping to keep the flow going. (Of course you'll have to open the gate valve before sticking the funnel spout in :))

[mooman76]

Yes there are dedicated funnels that screw in. Check out a site that sells BP supplies.

[stubshaft]

I use an aluminum funnel from my Coleman stove. Take the spout off and it screwed right into the flask.

[Muddy Creek Sam]

I just use a white plastic funnel from the Dollar store, works just fine.

Sam :D

[Baron von Trollwhack]

For serious work, you may want to take the flask head off and examine it carefully to determine that the cutoff in fact does. Some fit so loosely that the powder flows nearly as fast back into the flask as it does when pouring out. For revolver work you need to know the cutoff is tight as you typically do not throw the charge into a measure but directly into the cylinder chamber.

Nervous nellies, save your handringing for application elsewhere.

BvT

[gnoahhh]

Ditto the Baron's comments. I use several flasks, both modern and antique. On most of them I had to do some kind of alteration/repair to the mechanism to prevent flow-by, usually by replacing weak return springs. And yes, I dispense straight from the flask into revolver chambers and shotgun barrels. Transferring charges into an intermediate dispensing apparatus sort of negates the utility of a flask. The only reason I don't with rifles is because I'm using either pre-rolled paper cartridges or using a horn.

[DIRT Farmer]

And please don't negetate those of us who have seen a charge poof back up the barrel who use a seperate measure.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I have directly watched 8-10 musket cook-offs as they occured and turned my head at the sound of others in maybe 40 years and would not think of loading from flask to long gun of any kind, or to a fixed breech pistol. This experience included shooting or safetying in the skirmish line or the pistol line for thousands of others loading and shooting.

Pray tell how many REVOLVER cook offs have you watched as they occurred? The revolver was where my statement was directed.

If it is BP there is a lot of pure balogna involved, and the hardest thing in the world to do is to have a grown-up shooter accept that he is off base or unduly timid. Even SHOOTING organizations have adopted PC requirements. That does not mean they are technically right in doing so or that my comment was wrong.



BvT

[waksupi]

I agree that the revolver is the only acceptable BP firearm to load directly from a flask. Loading from a flask in any other firearm is inviting a negligent detonation, and you would most definitely be kicked off of any range if someone saw you loading like that, assuming the range officer is familiar with BP. In my area, it is a sure ticket off the firing line

[Newtire]

I use a plastic funned with a cut off .223 case sruck down into it for charging small cases. Unless you are loading coarse grain powders, this seems to work just fine. I don't see why it wouldn't work on filling a flask.

[gnoahhh]

I understand the risks involved, and let me state my approach. I dont use ML shotguns for target shooting where rapid reloading is required, ie: trap/skeet (for which purpose God gave us Citoris and Berettas). While informal target shooting or grouse/squirrel/turkey hunting, my shooting pace is pretty relaxed and several minutes go by before reloading the barrels. I'm content that sparks are no longer glowing before a fresh charge goes down the pipe. The one time I took a ML double gun dove hunting (for which purpose again God gave us 28 gauge O/U's!) I forgot to bring an intermediate charger along and as luck would have it the birds were flying in droves that day. Believe me when I tell you I gnashed my teeth at lost shots because I was waiting for the barrels to cool before re-loading. That was the one time I would have used an intermediate dispenser. The rest of the time, my shooting style allows for the direct dispensing from a flask. The secret to a long accident-free life is discipline.

An old friend lost his hand 40 years ago through carelessly ramming a fresh charge down the bore of a 12-pound Napolean gun without swabbing first. Believe me, I know of the effects of glowing embers in a ML barrel!

[coopieclan]

For serious work, you may want to take the flask head off and examine it carefully to determine that the cutoff in fact does. Some fit so loosely that the powder flows nearly as fast back into the flask as it does when pouring out. For revolver work you need to know the cutoff is tight as you typically do not throw the charge into a measure but directly into the cylinder chamber.

Nervous nellies, save your handringing for application elsewhere.

BvT

The cut off assembly looks tight
To fill the flask I plan to take off the 3 screws to remove the top.
I will be testing the charge the flask measures out by transferring a load from the new flask to my clear plastic variable powder measure.

This flask is being used on a revolver only.
I don't usually re load @ the range, just shoot 6 or 12 from pre loaded cylinders.

[gnoahhh]

I wouldn't risk damaging or losing those tiny screws by repeated removal. They are only threaded into sheet metal. If it were mine I would unscrew the spout and stick a small funnel in past the cutoff. If the spout doesn't unscrew, then a small funnel that goes down over the outside of the spout would be in order (like a reloading powder funnel).

[Baron von Trollwhack]

Once a shooter has verified that the flask cutoff works, and what the most accurate load is has been determined, you need a technique to throw repeatable loads from a flask. It may be that you put your finger tip over the end of the spout, thumb the lever open, invert the flask tap it twice on your thigh or bench edge, loose the lever to hold the charge, and then go right side up again. That is why the cutoff must work, and a repeated procedure must be followed for consistent charges. The charges must be the same if you seek accuracy.

On my flask for the Colt .36 My fingertip intrusion into the end will be 1 grain of fffg. So my spout is cut to give me 21 grains, to allow, and if I am consistent I get very close to 20 grains every charge. I presume you want good accuracy rather than a clanger quality and smoke. BTW you can use rifle flasks the same way to set up charges for the Colt cartridges, the 45-70, etc.

I meant only to take the flask top off the verify the mechanism did not allow for backflow of powder. There have been several good suggestions for refilling. You may wish to refill the flask less than shook down full so that as you rotate the flask spout up, spout down to measure and fill cylinders the "fines" have a chance to even out in the flask. Good shooting, BvT

[coopieclan]

Well I tested my new flask and the spout puts out slightly less than my old measuring system.

I filled the flask and used it to measure a load of fffg then I put that load into my old Tru-View measure. There was about 23 and a half gr in there. Maybe 5% off by my looking at it.
I am not going to worry about this for now.

Many of the guys here on the forum suggest a less is more approach. Also it is possible I had the variable Tru-View adjusted to 26 and 1/2 gr. It is small and he markings are subject to viewing errors.

I did not load up or go shoot today so I can't really say how it all works.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

My '51 Navy copy does nicely with a .380 RB and 20 Grains @ 25 yards. 1 grain is 5% of the charge. What kind of accuracy would one get with a + or - 5% in a 38 special @ 25 yards? . You may drill or file a spout to increase its volume, or file the end off to reduce. Determining the most accurate charge is the first thing to be done if you would shoot accurately.

BvT

[JC Kelly]

Plastic funnels very rarely build up enough of a static electricity charge to ignite the powder you are pouring. Of course, if you have a very old can of powder (I still have some du Pont) you may notice a fine black cloud forming as you pour it. Like the fine flour dust that occasionally levels flour mills.

Metal funnels never get a static electricity charge.

Of course, you can find Studies that Prove black powder Cannot be ignited by static electricity. They even include the voltage involved. These Studies are also run on various granulations of black gunpowder. They are not run on the fine dust that forms in the bottom of a can that has traveled around a bit.

Use a metal funnel.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

JC Kelly, Plastic funnels only build up enough static charge to get into some peoples imaginations, not ignite BP. Save it for people using less informed forums.

This is well known by experienced BP shooters.

It's powder dust you speak of, not a fine black cloud. Dust is in new cans too.

You are hereby awarded the Nervous Nellie BP bullshooter of the day award for attempting to influence shooters even less knowlegeable than yourself by advocating "scary", though unwarranted insinuations.

Why not advocate for care around sources of flame or sparks of sufficient heat intensity when handling powder ? That is the real threat.

BvT

[mooman76]

I bought some BP not long ago and it came in a plastic container. Don't think they would put it there if there was a problem.

[JC Kelly]

Baron - I want to thank you for my Nervous Nellie award. Perhaps you would also like to bestow it upon Lyman, www.lymanproducts.com, for advertising their No.55 Clasic Powder Measure (for black powder) as having "A large non-static aluminum powder reservoir. . ."?

There's another fellow, would have to hunt a bit to find his post, who would also like your award. He only got burnt, nothing serious.

Again, thanks for your knowledge and experienced attention.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

I have no doubt that Lyman is correct that their aluminum powder reservoir is indeed non static. What we are talking about is BP in a Lyman powder 55 measure. Many times marketeers do sell non-static aluminum powder reservoirs for/with the 55. The feeling of security from owning such a measure is a conditioned reaction based on removing the possibility a non-event. BvT