A question of annealing

[JohnH]

I am beginning to play with a 25-06. A friend gave me a couple hundred 30-06 cases and I am resizing these to use, more for the learning experience than anything. Some are new unfired, some are once fired.

After sizing the new unfired should they be annealed prior to loading?

Should the once fired be annealed prior to sizing?

Thanks, JohnH

[Bullshop]

Prolly not for the first few shots. Be aware there could be a safty issue with thick necks though. Be cautious, if necks are not too thick after initial forming they may be after just a couple full power loads. If you plan on shooting it lots from reformed 30/06 I would invest in some neck turning tools if you dont already have some.
BIC/BS

[Jon K]

Once fired cases will form easier, if annealed first. they will more than nlikely need necks turned, but before turning, make a chamber cast, or at least measure fired case from the gun. Chamber size can vary a lot.

just remember you can take more metal off, but hard to put it back on.

Jon

[Maven]

JohnH, I once was given a large no. of 7.62 x 51mm rounds, both loaded and once-fired that I wanted to neck down to .243Win. Test #1 was annealing first and then reforming*; test #2 was to anneal afterwards: Annealing afterwards was the better way as I experienced no collapsed shoulders or other problems as I did with test #1. However, as Jon K. wrote, you should check your newly reformed cases after the first firing for neck thickness and inside ream- or neck-turn them when necessary.


*Since I didn't have a reforming die, I simply used the .243Win. FL die, but incrementally. I.e., with a 7.62 x 51 case in the shellholder, I screwed the die in only enough to just contact the case mouth,and raised the ram. I turned the die in ~1/4 turn at a time, raising the ram until at last the case & shellholder made full contact with the die. The bigger problem was with [case] lube on the shoulder and neck of the cartridge to be reformed: Make sure they're practically free of lube else you'll get dents and creased necks, which will split after only a few firings.

P.S. The Lee TL mold casts beautifully + it's bullets are wonderfully accurate. Thanks!

[Dale53]

It is VERY important to check the cases for neck thickness after forming but BEFORE firing. A friend had serious pressure problems by failing to do that. After the necks were outside turned, all pressure problems disappeared.

Early chambers, before the cartridge was a commercial product, were mostly big enough to accept the formed cases without turning. After it became a commercial reality, most REQUIRE neck turning. Outside turning is considerably better than reaming. Outside turning will leave you with consistent neck thickness around the case. Reamers just follow the hole and any uneven thickness remains after you complete reaming.

Of course, unless you have lots of free 30'06 cases and nothing to do with your time, buying the correct cases to begin with will solve the problem.:mrgreen:

Dale53

[jhalcott]

Johnh ,you can get a "donut" on the inside neck/shoulder junction when necking down this way. You should ream the necks to get rid of it. trim the necks only enough to be sure they are square. then check the thickness with a tube mike. If needed you should neck turn,BUT be carefull you don't go to far and damage the shoulder. A lot of guys necking the 7mm mauser & 284 down to make 6mm Ackley and 6/284's found this gives the best accuracy.

[Phil]

The only way to ream a neck and get it resonably true is with a Wilson reaming setup in a Wilson case trimmer. I really prefer to outside turn them and have never had a problem with donuts if you go back into the shoulder just a bit. You have to know where to stop is the key to doing it though.

Cheers,

Phil