PID Controller for Lyman Heater

[cbunt1]

I've been reading the posts about PID controllers for the Lee furnaces and Lube Heaters. I finally decided it's time to build a set for myself. I figure I'll save money on this project the same way I save money on casting and reloading :-? ....but it sure looks like fun!

The furnace version plans are taking shape quite nicely and I think I'm ready to roll with it.

The Lube Heater version is leading me down some different paths, especially given that I'm going to order a Star in the near future. With the price of the Star heater, it occurred to me that I should modify my Lyman "universal" rig since it's pre-tapped for both my LAM2 and the upcoming Star.

I'm thinking of setting up one of the Miniature RTD Sensors (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=38) on the heater base, and attach it to one of the Universal 1/32 DIN controllers (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14).

It looks like the controller in question will power up to a 3 Amp load without an external relay. What I can't find anywhere is the amp-load of the Lyman heater. I recall reading somewhere that it's a 20W heating element, which should be less than 1 Amp, but I have no idea how "efficient" this thing is, nor can I verify this spec (I know it exists somewhere, but I haven't been able to lay my hands on it).

Does anyone know what the load for the heating element is? And has anyone setup one of these without the relay for the lube heater?

I'm open to any ideas or thoughts.

[6bg6ga]

I purchased my PID, SSR, and thermocouple from Auber. They have very fast shipping and you pay for that. I had purchased their thermocouple and discovered after the fact that I could purchase a more cost effective thermocouple from a firm on ebay for $6.99 with free shipping. I purchased it along with a set of male and female connectors. I rewired my setup so that I could disconnect the thermocouple and heater to allow using the PID for additional tasks. I would highly recommend purchasing a used PID or a new one off ebay. It takes my heater which is a 300 watt 1/4" dia 6" long unit 5 min to bring the temp up 15 degrees. I would recommend selling the Lyman on ebay and purchasing a higher wattage unit. I would also recommend using a SSR instead of relying on the internal relay.

I don't have an answer to your question on the wattage of the Lyman unit. I did a search and came up empty. It would be easy to put an amp clamp on it and get a reading. Another way to check would be to install a small ohm resistor in series with the load and use ohms law to calculate the current draw. Most PIDs have a relay current rating of 2.5A which would make it usable up to a 300 watt load. I recommend the SYL2352 PID unit.

If you want to make this a very low budget project I have 4) used PIDs coming from Ebay at a cost of $12 plus shipping each.

[cheese1566]

My Lyman cartridge heaters are stamped 20 watt on the sides.

I used one on my PID controller that I use on aluminum bases I made for my RCBS LAM and my Star.

I use a PID relay model that I bought last year on Lee W's benefit sale. (I use a meat probe style RTD he gave me in this use.) I use the internal relay for this application since the heater draws under the 3 amps rating.

Plus I made my bases so the RTD probe and heating element can be swapped from sizer to sizer. I have found for the lower 115 or 120 degree temp I need here, I only worry about changing the set point. I did however initially set the auto tune for my Star sizer since I use it the most.

[HATCH]

I still have a bunch of 10 amp SSR's for free if people pay for shipping.
I ship out 2 of them for $3 shipped which is basically the cost of shipping. I don't make any money on this. They are all new and I was told to THROW THEM AWAY.

I am NOT SELLING THESE, but giving them away.
You are paying for the padded envelope and postage.
I am limiting 2 per person so that more people can get them.

[Frozone]

I used a 2A SSR (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_175214_-1).
It's small enough to mount easily in a small project box.

I decided that I didn't want a mechanical relay in the design.
It mounts on the 1/32 PID without a problem, should do the same on the bigger units too.

Here (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showpost.php?p=1121810&postcount=63) is the unit I made.

The case is 5" x 3.5" x 2" and has sockets for all power and sensor wires. It could be 2/3 that size without that feature.

[cbunt1]

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions! At this point my biggest debate is whether I want to do a single controller box for my lube machines and lead pot (controlling both from one panel) or separate boxes for each.

I'm blessed with a good component-level electronics store here in Houston, so the PID is the only thing I haven't been able to grab locally (and cheaply...so far I've got less than $20 into the whole thing).

I'm leaning toward separate units at this point...bench space is getting a little tight, and I'm prone to regular rearrangements of the bench anyway...just as sure as I build a box with a controller for each I'll decide to split the operations LOL.

[kirb]

Is there a post or some where that can walk me threw building PID controllers for casting furnace. I would like to try a couple but dont know where to start.

Kirb

[cbunt1]

Kirb, There's a sticky that's very good at the top of this forum. Here's a Link (http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=34547)

[6bg6ga]

cbunt1

I will make you a deal if you are interested. I purchased 4) PID's off ebay and I don't need all 4 of them. They have relay output but you could easliy use the internal relay that is rated at 2A to switch an external relay that would be rated higher that would be able to carry the higher current needs of a melting pot. I had originally set up my first PID to do double duty but after thing about it for a while I am in the process of making a second PID controller. Thank God for cheap computer power supply boxes.

[cbunt1]

Hatch and 6bg6ga: PM's sent! Thank you both!

[cutter_spc]

HATCH, pm sent[smilie=s:

[HATCH]

This is the PID I built for my Lyman heater
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/63344d6dab9af369e.jpg
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/63344d6dabd8426f7.jpg
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/63344d6dab9b825e5.jpg
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/imagehosting/63344d6dab9a6228d.jpg


I have the SSR mounted upside down so the line/load is closer to the wires that connect to it.
The SSR is a 10 amp
That is PLENTY large enough for the 20 watt element in the heater.
In fact its large enough to handle my Pro 4-20 furnace. The 4-20 has a 700 watt element which only draws less then 6 amps.
I am gonna add a switch to turn off the incoming power but that's easy to do later.
The last picture is the Thermocouple.
I bought two of them off of eBay for @$12 shipped.
I used poly tubing to cover the stainless braid that is on the thermocouple wire. I didn't want it shorting out on the open terminals of the SSR

[wdr2]

Hatch -
What size and make aluminum box did you use for your PID?

[HATCH]

8 inch x 10 inch x 4 inch

they make them in the next building over at my work. Its not the same company by they are owned by the same person.
The one I used was a custom order with a single knock-out on the top and bottom.
Normally they have 2 knock-outs on top and bottom.
We had several left over from a special project @ 5 years ago. We don't use them any more (not in that size/configuration)
I am not sure what they cost but I asked the guy in charge and he said I could have two more.
So if you want one, let me know. You would have to pay for shipping. They don't weigh a lot but they are bulky.

[cbunt1]

I particularly like the wall mount aspect!

I'll have to post some pictures of the controllers I built...

[HATCH]

it keeps it off the bench and out of harms way.
Also I sometimes have the window open and its high enough up that any rain that comes in will not effect it.

The piece of DIN rail above it was to hold my box fan during the summer time.

[wdr2]

Thanks for the kind offer. I bought a Hammond box a few weeks ago and was questioning the size before start to build my unit. Mine box is 8x8x5 so I should have room.


8 inch x 10 inch x 4 inch

they make them in the next building over at my work. Its not the same company by they are owned by the same person.
The one I used was a custom order with a single knock-out on the top and bottom.
Normally they have 2 knock-outs on top and bottom.
We had several left over from a special project @ 5 years ago. We don't use them any more (not in that size/configuration)
I am not sure what they cost but I asked the guy in charge and he said I could have two more.
So if you want one, let me know. You would have to pay for shipping. They don't weigh a lot but they are bulky.