Who all shoots REALs?

[davydtune]

I've been using them for a year out of my percussion and flint guns was outstanding results. They have been so good that I'm now playing with them in my inline as well. The ones I've been molding are 50 cal 250 grain REALs. Thinking about getting the molds for the 50 cal 320 grain to try. Anyone used both? I know the particular gun and load is what makes or breaks it. Just wondering if I may be able to do a little better with the 320s.?

[stubshaft]

Depends on the twist of you barrel The 250's are not too much longer than a PRB. The 320's ARE longer than a PRB and will usually take a faster barrel to stabilize.

[camerl2009]

the 250gr works in my 1-48 twist deerhunter flintlock

[davydtune]

the 250gr works in my 1-48 twist deerhunter flintlock

Yep, I have a Deer Hunter and they shoot good. :smile:

[bubba.50]

they work good in my renegade.

[mooman76]

The 320's work well in my CVA with a 1/48 twist.

[Good Cheer]

Yep, I have a Deer Hunter and they shoot good. :smile:

The .50 DeerHunter? Tried them in my DeerHunter flinter and haven't settled on a load. What's working for you?

[davydtune]

I'm shooting the 50 cal 250 grain REAL out of my Deer Hunter flintlock with 80 grains of 3F. I can hold a 4" group at 100 yards off a rest. Also shooting the same bullet and charge out of my CVA Bobcat percussion rifle and I can hold the group down to 3" with it. I think the 2" more of barrel helps with that.

[Good Cheer]

OK thanks for the info.

[Newtire]

I have used the 250 grain one in my .50 T.C. and it shot OK as long as I didn't try to push it if I remember right. Seems like it would be lots better than a round ball as far as energy goes.

[camerl2009]

The .50 DeerHunter? Tried them in my DeerHunter flinter and haven't settled on a load. What's working for you?

i shoot mine with 90 gr ffg goex with the 250gr and i shoot round ball .490 with a denim patch an 70 gr ffg goex

[Fishman]

I've been using them for a year out of my percussion and flint guns was outstanding results. They have been so good that I'm now playing with them in my inline as well. The ones I've been molding are 50 cal 250 grain REALs. Thinking about getting the molds for the 50 cal 320 grain to try. Anyone used both? I know the particular gun and load is what makes or breaks it. Just wondering if I may be able to do a little better with the 320s.?

Today someone posted 75 320 gr REAL boolits in the Pay it Forward section. Looks like a good opportunity to try some.

[Captain*Kirk]

I shoot the 320's in my Lyman Trade Rifle (1:48 twist) with damn good results in front of 70-90 grains of Pyro RS

[Bushrod]

They shoot great in my CVA Accura

[Old Ironsights]

The 200gr .45s work EXCELLENTLY in a ROA.

[Fly]

I know they are not suppose to work in a 1-66 twist.But have any here REALLY tryed them
in that twist?
Please do lie, just because you read that.But I,m really thinking of trying the 250 grain with
a small load behind & maybe a felt wad.

Fly

[mooman76]

I shot them in my 45 CVA Kentucky. the 200gr ones. They actually shot pretty well but I think they were on the edge of stability because I would have a plier every once in awhile. They shot good enough for minute of deer but I wouldn't win any shooting contests with them. If you go with the 250gr it will probably do worse. If you are shoot a .50 they may still do ok.

[Baja_Traveler]

I'll second Old Ironsights - My Old Army loves them, so its all I shoot over 777.

[ReloaderEd]

[smilie=2:i am using a 54 caliber Lee REAL bullet in my Hawkin TC all steel rifle I believe 1 in 48 twist. It is very accurate and the bullet casts in pure lead easily. A friend used my rifle and shot a deer with the REAL bullet and it performed flawlessly. I stll like the Lyman hollow base Mini bullet for Elk. Be Safe:

[Good Cheer]

Hey there Reloader Ed.
I have that 54 minie also and am threatening to try it out in a 54 flinter Renegade barrel. Was kind of wondering whether it would shoot if it was a flat base or had an even thicker skirt.
Could you tell me how much powder you're burning and how it's shooting?
Thanks.

[roverboy]

A friend has a 320 gr. mold that I may try to get in a little while. These look like a mean boolit. I killed a buck last season with a homemade Maxi- Hunter. It expanded to about 95 cal.

[Fredx10sen]

I use them ."45 Cal. " in the Kentucky Rifle, TC Hawkins and the 58 Remington's with great success. I have even sized them down to .430 Dia. to use in the 44 Cal. Ruger Blackhawk.

[shoestring]

tried them in my accura v2. not worth a dang really. well not after shooting powerbelts. 12-14" @ 200 yds. powerbelts will hit a golf ball @ 200.

[deerlover]

tried them in my accura v2. not worth a dang really. well not after shooting powerbelts. 12-14" @ 200 yds. powerbelts will hit a golf ball @ 200.

yeah but they wont expand enough to kill anything

[Omnivore]

I've been using patched round ball over 110 gr Goex FF in a 50 cal Lyman Deerstalker percussion. 24" barrel w/ 48" twist. I cast some REAL 250s and 320s and had my nephew try them at the range. He hit his target every time, including a gallon jug at 100 yards, standing, but we haven't shot on paper for group yet. Those were pushed by 90 grains Goex FF as I recall, using a bee's wax, venison tallow and olive oil lube, pan lubed. They did seem to hit the same as the round ball load, relative to point of aim. I had assumed we'd be readjusting the sights.

That's a very limited report, but there it is.

And; what is this "expansion": of which y'all speak? ; )

I've yet to see a dead soft, swaged round ball deform significantly, in killing several deer, and that's coming out at 1900 fps. Some of those deer were hit at less than 25 yards, but one shot, though it doesn't deform, still kills them plenty dead.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

we were playing around 2 months ago and i had made a bunch of 250gr lee reals out of strait wheel weight with a touch of tin sodier to get them to fill out , well i lubed them with my venison tallow bees wax , but then after i shot a few patched round balls they were hitting about the same place from my 1:48 24inch inline , the barrel was so slick from our patch lube that i loaded with no lube on the lee real and they flew fine

i was only playing and only had 60 gr of 777 ffg

we have gotten patched round ball in a 50cal down to 25-30 gr of ffg the kids like it that way

[Omnivore]

we have gotten patched round ball in a 50cal down to 25-30 gr of ffg the kids like it that way

That makes it a pistol caliber carbine. Nothing wrong with that. In rifles with the patent breech, you should make sure the powder chamber is full though, so they say. I measured one of mine (a late style percussion Hawken breech plug/snail) and it took 30 - 35 grains to fill the breech chamber such that the ball would seat against the powder.

I'll try to get the REALs and the 50 cal sidelock out this weekend, along with the chrono and some targets, and try to give it a good workout. Been meaning to do that for a while anyway. I have the 250 gr and the 3-hundred-something REAL molds, both in 50 cal, bullets prelubed with a mixture of bee's wax, tallow and a bit of olive oil.

Forgot to mention that when I had my nephew out shooting the REAL loads, no swabbing was needed between shots, just as Lee says. With my tight fitting patched ball loads and real black, I typically have to swab between shots or the ball sticks on the way down.

[GREENCOUNTYPETE]

That makes it a pistol caliber carbine. Nothing wrong with that. In rifles with the patent breech, you should make sure the powder chamber is full though, so they say. I measured one of mine (a late style percussion Hawken breech plug/snail) and it took 30 - 35 grains to fill the breech chamber such that the ball would seat against the powder.

I'll try to get the REALs and the 50 cal sidelock out this weekend, along with the chrono and some targets, and try to give it a good workout. Been meaning to do that for a while anyway. I have the 250 gr and the 3-hundred-something REAL molds, both in 50 cal, bullets prelubed with a mixture of bee's wax, tallow and a bit of olive oil.

Forgot to mention that when I had my nephew out shooting the REAL loads, no swabbing was needed between shots, just as Lee says. With my tight fitting patched ball loads and real black, I typically have to swab between shots or the ball sticks on the way down.


the reason we drop down to 25-30 gr of black is for the 4H program
some of our shooters are maybe not even a hundred pounds they are 12 or older and have taken WIS hunters saftey to participate.
my inline has a wider breech and i run at least 60 gr to make sure it is full , but the 4H guns are strait clear to the end.
the kids fire 50 rounds scored for the day plus practice if we made the charge to stiff they would be plum wore out by the recoil

we have had great luck with our patch lube and not having to swab barrels between shots , we use 1/3 hydrogen peroxide 1/3 rubbing alchohal 1/3 murphys soap oil , in a small dark colored spray bottle the little spray bottles the hydrogen peroxide comes in are great because they are already the dark brown plastic and 8 oz so a 1/3 rd cup measure is all yo uneed to make the mix
got the recipie from another 4h leader who puts on a big rodevous

we go 20+ rounds without swabing and they keep sliding down with enough ease that the kids get them down on their own just fine

[Omnivore]

I had my Lyman Deerstalker out Saturday. I first fired three shots using patched roundball and 110 grains Goex 2F, a .495" ball and a 15 thou patch lubed with commercial, 1,00 plus or similar, yellow lube. That's a pretty hot load, fit very tight, but it's my deer hunting load and it's performed well for me. We've killed four deer with it and all have fully penetrated or stopped just under the skin on the far side. One of these loads penetrated 25" (quartering away shot) and stopped just under the skin.

Three shots grouped exactly 2", at 50 yards with a slight favor to the left of the target. One in the x-ring, one slightly above the 10 ring, and one to the left in the 8 ring. I swabbed between shots as usual. That's my standard grouping and POI for that load. Velocities were, in order; 1568, 1640, 1696. I've noticed before that the first (clean bore) shot is slower than subsequent shots.

Next were the REAL 250 grainers, cast from pure lead. I knew it would hurt a bit shooting from the bench, but I used the same 110 grain 2F charge. The group opened up wildly, and was far off to the right of center (I'm shooting right handed). One in the outer scoring ring (NRA smallbore 100 yard rifle targets) and the other two outside the scoring rings. Velocities were, in order; 1539, 1572, 1575. About a 10 inch group at 50 yards. Not at all a practical load. Unlike our previous experience, I HAD to swab between shots or it was a hard battle getting the bullet down the bore. No idea what happened there - it was easy last fall in the cold. Maybe the temperature difference? It was warm, about 70F. These bullets were from the same casting session, and the lube was exactly the same batch from last Fall. Powder was the same, though loaded somewhat heavier this time.

Next group of three was the same 250 grain, 50 cal, pure lead REAL with a 90 grain charge of Goex 2F. The group was centered around the bull's eye, with a slight favor to the right, but the group size was about 6 inches at 50 yards. Still not acceptable to me. Velocities were; 1419, 1467, 1423.

With some experimentation I might be able to get decent groups with the REAL bullets. I still need to do this with the 340 grain (I think that's the stated weight) REAL too.

I'm puzzled as to why the hard loading when they loaded so nice last fall. Maybe the age hardening, maybe some deterioration of the lube, maybe the temperature difference, maybe the humidity difference causing hard fouling.

This gun has a 24" barrel with a 48" twist. More optimized for conicals (a ball twist is more like 55" to 70") but so far my best load has been patched ball ('cause that's what I've worked with the most by far).

Oh; there were two misfires because I was using up the CCI #11 caps that fit this rifle far too tight (I use Remington 11s if I need reliability, 'cause they happen to fit this nipple perfectly). A second strike made the CCIs fire. That allowed me to observe any flinching I might have had from the recoil that was starting to get painful as the day wore on (I had tested a bunch of heavy 30-30 loads first that day). I'd profess that my flinching was at a low level, such that the two large groups were the load's fault more than mine, for what that's worth.

The REAL bullets do make a nice clean, round hole in the paper if that's important to anyone.

So for the 50 caliber REAL 250s, the jury's still out for me. Any tips would be appreciated. Am I just loading too darn hot still, at 90 grains 2F? Lee says REAL slugs are good for "magnum loads" and I wouldn't call 90 grains "magnum". So many variables...and one group isn't much to go on.

[mooman76]

I'd say probably too hot of loads. Try dropping it to around 70gr. If you want to shoot hot loads you could try adding a little tin or WW/lead mix. It may help. Or you could go up to the heavier REAL 320gr , it should handle a heavier load I would think.

[treadhead1952]

Hi All,

Have to agree with the mooman, a lighter load goes a long ways in making more accurate shots. If all you are doing is punching paper, a light load will do more for you than a shoulder buster every time. I have a Thompson Center .54 caliber New Englander that I shoot Lee REAL 380 grain bullets, 410 grain Minie boolits and .54 round balls, all from Lee molds. They all benefit from lighter powder charges in the 65 to 75 grain loading area depending on which boolit or ball I shoot. If you want to go after game, then it is time to load up a bit to ensure maximum smack down power, but there again, do it in smaller increments to see just what it does to your accuracy.

[2wheelDuke]

I probably haven't touched my old CVA sidelock in over 10 years. It's been banished to the closet.

I drew a limited entry hunt for muzzleloader this year, so it's time to start getting ready for that. I just ordered up the dual mold that does a 320gr REAL and a .490 round ball.

Maybe next week I'll have a bit of time to try casting some, and the week after maybe I can have the gun cleaned up to see how they do.

What do you guys use for lube on the REALs?

[treadhead1952]

I have a tub of Young Country Lube 103 that I have been using for a while now. All Natural ingredients specifically designed for Maxiballs but does equally well with REAL Boolits.

http://www.octobercountry.com/products3.php?productid=442

[RhodeHunter]

I use a Lee REAL 320 in my CVA Optima with a 1-28" twist. I have to use 60 gr of Pyrodex RS. If I use 70 gr, the boolit flies way off target. I found this out the hard way when I missed a chance at a doe this year. Shot twice at her because she hung around. Missed both shots. I confirmed at the range the next day that it was because I had increased the powder from my normal practice load. Everyone always talks big loads when hunting. Boy did that screw me up. Also make sure to get any bore butter out of your barrel. Swab it real dry before firing. I shot 2 deer with the REAL 320 this year - both pass-thru shots with 60 gr of Pyrodex. One button buck at 15 yards, the other a mature doe at 50 yards. The doe I was aiming square center chest shot and it entered right shoulder. She was slightly quartering towards. So that shot flew off a little also. Lucky. I'm using the factory fiber optic sights, but I would like to try a scope, and maybe trying the Hornady sabots I've been finding at Dick's. I passed up a nice shot at a doe from a kneeling position because I thought I couldn't make the shot. When I tried to get closer, the two doe saw me and bolted. If I had a scope or sticks I would've taken the shot. I couldn't get prone and still see her. What an exciting first year hunting. It's been a REAL dream come true.

[DODGEM250]

I'm also considering trying the .50/320 in my traditions Pursuit, however, my question about these REAL bullets is, How hard are they to get started and down the bore ? My next question is, does anyone here have the interest in shipping me a few to try ? I'm more than willing to drop the paypal for shipping, but, I don't know if I want to jump into a $30.00 mold before I try them.

[mooman76]

They aren't that hard to start and once they start, they go down fairly easy. I could send you some. Shoot me a PM with your address.

[DODGEM250]

They aren't that hard to start and once they start, they go down fairly easy. I could send you some. Shoot me a PM with your address.


Thanks. PM has been sent.

[CapLock80]

I used the 250 grain REAL bullet this year to kill my first buck. Used TC Hawken and the shot was about 70 yards. Pulled the shot a little high and hit the spine. Bullet pulverized the bone, but did get stopped at the spine. Lubed the bullet started out at 248 grains. Recovered it weighs 176.

Deer wasn't dead right there but he did drop right there and wasn't going anywhere. Probably didn't need a second shot, but wasn't interested in potentially losing him. He could lift his head up high exposing a neck shot that wouldn't destroy any good meat. It passed through.

Off subject but he sure does taste good. Part of the Rockies I was hunting in burned down about 10 years ago. Now it's come back with mostly aspen and grass now that the pines are gone. Sure beats sage fed deer meat. I can only imagine what corn fed must be like.

[excess650]

Before I knew better I tried 50cal 370gr Maxiballs in my CVA Mountain Rifle with its 1-66" twist. It would group 1-1/2" at 50 yards with (3) 44 Mag cases of Goex ffg. This was back in the late 1970s when I was a teenager. I lubed with Crisco only.

Both weights of the Lee REALs are shorter and lighter than the Maxiballs, so should work IF they fit reasonable well.

[jhalcott]

I tried both a 370 Minie and the 320 Real in my Knight .50 cal. there was not much difference in accuracy at 50 yards using Pyrodex RS. The Minie's were 5/6 years old and lubed with bees wax/deerfat when cast. I may try again with new castings and an over powder wad.