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View Full Version : Quick fix for an older Lyman 314299



Dutchman
01-22-2011, 08:43 PM
This mold was a freebie. It's an older mold having the thinner sprue plate and smaller sprue countersinks. Nice condition and this is probably why. Both alignment pin holes had a raised burr around the edges.

http://images109.fotki.com/v146/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2835bc-vi.jpg

The finning was so thin you could wipe it off with your finger but it was very annoying.

http://images17.fotki.com/v62/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2838bc-vi.jpg

http://images58.fotki.com/v85/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2833bc-vi.jpg

http://images56.fotki.com/v124/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2832bc-vi.jpg

http://images54.fotki.com/v1616/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2841bc-vi.jpg


Took a countersink and a couple twists by hand.

.303" nose, .314" body.

http://images57.fotki.com/v505/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2856bc-vi.jpg

http://images109.fotki.com/v128/photos/4/28344/9430776/DSCF2842bc-vi.jpg

Doc Highwall
01-22-2011, 10:39 PM
I have done the same thing on moulds I have fixed for other people. You might have to reset the pins on the other half. Another thing I do is stone the high part on the mould and use the countersink as little as possible.

Dutchman
01-23-2011, 12:14 AM
Thanks for the tips. I hadn't thought about using a stone.

Dutch

deltaenterprizes
01-23-2011, 01:05 AM
I have a junk RCBS mold I got off Ebay that has a similar problem, (one of many) I will have to try that.

Doc Highwall
01-23-2011, 01:42 PM
I take the mould apart and stone the two mould halves first to make sure there are no burrs preventing them coming together. Then I check to make sure the alignment pins fit properly. Then I stone the top of the mould making sure there is an edge break on the top outside edge especially where the sprue plate slides on and off and also stone where the handles attach to make sure the two halves can realigned when casting. Last I stone the sprue plate making sure the sprue hole has a sharp edge and stone the bottom of the plate as well again making sure there is an edge break where the plate slides on and off the top of the mould helping to preventing scratching and galling.
Don't forget to use Bull Plate lube when putting the mould back together.

geargnasher
01-23-2011, 01:48 PM
I press out the pins and wet-sand the block faces with 400-grit emery paper and a piece of 1/2" plate glass, then reset the pins. Usually that is enough, but if there is a sharp edge at the hole I use a TiN-coated six-flute 45-degree countersink to just barely break the edge of all four holes before pressing the pins back in.

Gear

bhn22
01-23-2011, 04:30 PM
I just use my old case mouth deburring tool to remove the edge. I buy new ones from time to time & save the old ones for jobs like this. You can also runs a fine cut file over the areas, held flat against the surface with your fingertips under light pressure. Then deburr it lightly an you're ready to go.

JeffinNZ
01-23-2011, 05:12 PM
Just how I fixed my 2nd hand 311008.