Top 10 Cast Boolits tips

[waksupi]

We get lots of good information on here nearly every day. What to you consider the top ten tips you picked up here in 2010?
I'll have to think about it, and go back through some posts to decide!

I think the tip on using citrus cleaner on brass has to be one of the best.

[Red River Rick]

Best thing I learned here in 2010, is to get your friends to cast for you.

This way you can spend more time relaxing, drinking beer, watching them work and your not sweating over a hot pot!

RRR ;)

[HammerMTB]

1. Slug your barrel. How else will you know the answer to the #1 issue- FIT!
2. You're unlikely to get lead poisoning unless you don't wash, turn your pot up WAY too hot, and lick all the spent primers you collect.
3. Collect your wheelweights now. They're unlikely to be around much longer.
There's a small start.

[btroj]

Hard to say. I learned so much.

I learned a lot about feeding my first 1911. I learned I am not alone in my quest for knowledge.

My biggest learning experience was learning to speak up. To ask questions when I needed answers and to provide my experiences to the collective knowledge when I felt it would help.

[RobS]

Case swage down on boolits:
Make sure the boolit leaves the loaded case at the intended diameter (Pull a boolit from a dummy round). This will help eliminate the many threads as to "Why is my barrel leading".

Understanding Age Hardening:
This will help people understand why some don't have issues and some do with swage down on certain alloyed boolits. It's a good idea to let a boolit age for a period of time (a week or two) before loading.

These two alone are missed concepts by many.

[lwknight]

Safety is paramount.
Personal Protective Equipment should be used.
Melting stuff can be hazardous.

[Smoke-um if you got-um]

For paper patching an old time cigarette roller is a dynamite accessory.

[adrians]

i learned not to cast outside on a wrought iron picnic table in your bare feet cos hot "droplets"of lead fall through the table and on to the tops of your feet and its hot as h%$l,,, OUCH!!!!!.:evil::groner::twisted:

[geargnasher]

1. +1 on the citric acid brass cleaner. Thanks, Sagacious!

2. Get your brass cleaning media cheap from the pet store or Harbor Freight.

3. How to make the muzzle line of a .22 barrel liner invisible, Thank you John Taylor! Also thanks to Mike from TJ's Liners, without this site I wouldn't have found him, either.

4. Lead wheel weights are becoming extinct, for real. Lesson learned: HOARD.

5. It is possible, although maybe not practical, to make boolits from zinc.

6. Crumb rubber mulch makes excellent boolit trap material for recovery, inspection, and troubleshooting cast boolit performance.

7. Flat, plain top punches work better than shaped ones for most flat point boolits in base-first sizers.

8. PID controllers solve the pot temperature swings and that makes more consistent boolit weights.

9. Accurate Molds (dot) com is a boolit caster's dream come true.

10. Common chucking reamers can be used with masking tape 'bushings' to ream revolver cylinder throats, thanks Bret4207!


Some things I learned on my own:

1. Bronze wool works better than a Chore Boy for removing lead fouling from bores.

2. Carbon monoxide is the real compound responsible for the reduction of lead and tin oxides, not carbon itself.

3. Carnauba wax in boolit lube can promote rust in the bore with certain powders.

4. "Wet" silicone oil makes a great sprue plate and alignment point lube for aluminum moulds.

[.30/30 Guy]

Great list geargnasher! I have used a number of these the past year.
#1 - citric acid is great.
#4 - get the wheel weight while you can.
#6 - crumb rubber boolit catchers work great have not lost a single boolit since started using it.
#8 - PID's are a the best thing that I did last year for my casting equipment

Some other thing that may not be limited to the year 2010.
#1 - Bull Plate - never be without it.
#2 - Patmarlins Checkmakers - outstanding checks for your boolits and the PB Checkmaker - WOW!
#3 - Ace Hardware roof flashing material for gas checks

[Dennis Eugene]

# 1 Thing is just do it! You'll only learn so much reading about, take the plunge. Just do it! Dennis

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

many great tips listed so far.

Citric acid brass cleaning technique is surely #1

I imagine this is old news for many here,
but for me, one not listed so far is
"how cast lead alloys age harden"
My newest plan for swaging using a reloading press and
annealed brass cartridge as a jacket
is using a core (not Pure lead) but WW alloy
that is cast less than 24 hours prior to swaging.
Jon

[Charlie Sometimes]

You've overlooked KROIL on your molds, and the Lee-menting process, too. :bigsmyl2:

Come on guys, he said CAST BOOLITS tips- I know there are nearly too many to mention, but you can do better than this! :smile:

[RobS]

I imagine this is old news for many here,
but for me, one not listed so far is
"how cast lead alloys age harden"
My newest plan for swaging using a reloading press and
annealed brass cartridge as a jacket
is using a core (not Pure lead) but WW alloy
that is cast less than 24 hours prior to swaging.
Jon

Post #5 in regards to mentioning age hardening

Also you can anneal a WW alloy by putting it in the oven at 375 degrees for an hour and shutting the oven off while leaving the boolits in too cool as the oven cools down.

[noylj]

1 I learned that many people spend an inordinate amount of time and worry on making their brass look like virgin.
2 I learned that many people consider low smoke and not getting their guns dirty as more important than how accurate a given powder is.
3 I learned that a LOT of beginners can not start simple but must try to solve every reloading problem before they even know if they have any.
4 I learned that a LOT of reloaders see case expansion as only being case mouth belling and NOT getting the case ID to within 0.001" of bullet diameter, and then they don't understand why their lead bullets are being swaged down.
5 I learned that a LOT of people think that their lead pots are emitting copious amounts of lead vapor (10^-8 mm Hg at 700F) and they don't think to be concerned about the heavy metal dust they are generating around their work area.
6 I learned that many people start reloading before they have read the press manual, the die instructions, or a good reloading manual and have almost no idea how each individual die works or how to adjust a die properly.
7 I learned that White Label Lubes will be my new source for bullet lube.
8 I learned that WWs are a thing of the past
9 I learned that a LOT of reloaders think that hard alloys are always best
10 I learned that people were trying case or swaged lead bullets without ever slugging their barrels
11 I learned that almost every beginner appeared to have a brain dead "friend" teaching them to reload

[Charlie Sometimes]

ROFLMAO!
Great observations, noylj!

That post is now one of the latest "need to read" tips! :razz:

[RobS]

Not entirely accurate:


2 I learned that many people consider low smoke and not getting their guns dirty as more important than how accurate a given powder is. Indoor shooting may be of their concern as they can't see through the smoke which may affect their accuracy; cowboy shooting much the same.
4 I learned that a LOT of reloaders see case expansion as only being case mouth belling and NOT getting the case ID to within 0.001" of bullet diameter, and then they don't understand why their lead bullets are being swaged down. Yes and no, for revolvers shooting magnum loads neck tension is very important in keeping the boolit from jumping crimp. .001 under boolit diameter often times will not be enough to keep a boolit in place and especially for the last few rounds in regards to magnum revolver loads
8 I learned that WWs are a thing of the past not gone yet but state by state will be in the very near future

[Rusty W]

I'm still a greenhorn but I've learned about Bull Plate, 45/45/10, how to mix/calculate alloys, & when I stroll by the swapin & sellin, vendor sponsor, & group buys, I must remember to put on blinders or I will be on a short road to the poor house. There's a lot of valuable information on this site & I'm still learning.

[frankenfab]

I learned that if you have your Lee Pro 20 plugged into an old stylewired receptacle (no ground) on a table outside, and you go outside with bare feet and touch the pot, it will shock you.

[RobS]

I learned that if you have your Lee Pro 20 plugged into an old stylewired receptacle (no ground) on a table outside, and you go outside with bare feet and touch the pot, it will shock you.


I bet that was stimulating.:holysheep

[crabo]

1. I've learned that every gun can be different. What works well with one, may fail miserably with another.

2. I've learned WD WWs are going to work in some guns, and the same velocity in another gun and caliber, may work better with 50/50 pb and ww that are air cooled.

3. I've learned that I have got to quit buying molds for guns that I do not have.

[geargnasher]

You've overlooked KROIL on your molds, and the Lee-menting process, too. :bigsmyl2:

Come on guys, he said CAST BOOLITS tips- I know there are nearly too many to mention, but you can do better than this! :smile:

Per Ric's request, I just mentioned the ones I personally picked up HERE in 2010, the list of tips, tricks, and techniques I learned in the FIRST year I was here would easily limit-out the character count allowed in a single post. The number of such that can be found here would make a pretty heavy book even if condensed and organized into a single volume.

Gear

[Leadmelter]

What I learned in 2010 is:
1. I have more stuff than I can catalogue.
2. A GE hot plate speeds up casting a bunch.
3. Good tunes and a solitary afternoon adds up to a pile of boolits.
4. If I need help there are about a thousand helpful persons ready to share information with a click of mouse.
Thanks!
Gerry

[Dannix]

I've learned too much in the past year to even fully consider in one sitting, but then I'm rather new to this site and this hobby. If it was organized, it would be that book gear referred to.

A few off the top of my head:

Kroil
mould preheat via hotplate
mould temperature prob
alloys: what each element brings to the table and their respective cons, and when to use each alloy
1++ on the "Ace Hardware roof flashing material for gas checks"
Metplat info and associated optimal velocity ranges for best terminal performance
Lubing options and what each lube component brings to the table
Don't scrap the bottom of the pot with the wooden stick if you're bottom-pouring
What on earth leade is and other chamber stuff I have yet to quite comprehend
Use an expander die like a Lyman M with a custom sized insert to keep softer boolits from being swagged down.
Reading pressure with a micrometer
It can be really easy to start a GB, or there can be few if any takers
There's some great guys here that will let you pick your brain, and that's just a real joy for a novice like myself. I have over 100 PMs in my inbox, and they are a real treasure of information for me. I don't want to mention names, but a big thanks to you.


The one thing I did not learn from this site but adopted is using stainless steel media and a Thumbler HighSpeed B with hot water and a schluck of dawn. Lead oxides go down the toilet and not into my home, and as a bonus my brass is quite purdy.



9 I learned that a LOT of reloaders think that hard alloys are always best
If you're referring to the reloaders here, my learning has been the opposite. I came across this site very early on in my discovery of all things boolit, and so was accustomed to seeing 1:30, 1:20, and 50/50 being commonly recommended alloys. I was in for a bit of a shock when I happened to notice basically no one commercial sells non-jword cartridges with anything other than hardcast.

[geargnasher]

The Meplat size info was a good one, too.

The only rule about alloy hardness/toughness is that it be suitable to the particular application. A 2500 fps 30-bore target rifle won't need the same alloy that a BP front-stuffer will shooting Minies, neither will a .45 ACP hollow point or a 35 Remington used for hunting elk.

Gear

Gear

[Dannix]

5. It is possible, although maybe not practical, to make boolits from zinc.
jbunny is our resident zinc boolit master FYI. He's posted up some very interesting zinc-related material if you wish to peruse some.



8. PID controllers solve the pot temperature swings and that makes more consistent boolit weights.
I forgot about seeing this. I need to read up on it more. Thanks for mentioning it.



9. Accurate Molds (dot) com is a boolit caster's dream come true.

3. Carnauba wax in boolit lube can promote rust in the bore with certain powders.
Could you elaborate on both?

[geargnasher]

jbunny is our resident zinc boolit master FYI. He's posted up some very interesting zinc-related material if you wish to peruse some.
Yes, been following his threads with interest for a while.
I forgot about seeing this. I need to read up on it more. Thanks for mentioning it.
Several good threads on it.

Could you elaborate on both?

Look here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101545. Completely custom-made moulds made just like you like them, to your design, just the size you want with the alloy you specify, made of aluminum, iron, or brass to the best quality standards of any mould I have ever seen, and shipped to your door in a couple of weeks. There are plenty of custom mould makers out there, but as long as Tom chooses to offer his services he's the only one I'll patronize. He ended a years-long and seemingly eternal frustration of trying to get a boolit mould that was "just right" for what I needed.

I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). Since I have been using Felix lube (original) I found that just a patch-out after shooting is all I needed to do to preserve the "season" of the bore and was good for months in the safe. When I changed lubes I had the problem after shooting 748, but not as bad with 3031. Guns I've shot with other powders and the same lube haven't had this problem at all, so I did some tests on a saw blade and concluded that for some reason the lube with carnauba wax reacted with burned 748 and 3031 and flash-rusted. Regular Felix lube without carnauba had no issues, and it wasn't the stearic acid as far as I can tell. Carnauba Red did the same thing with the same two powders in my tests. I lost interest in the tests since I proved to myself what I needed to know (use Ed's Red after shooting!), but if you use a lube with Carnauba Wax in it you might watch for rust if you don't clean and oil your bores regularly.

Gear

[Bullshop]

""I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). ""

HMMMM Very interesting!!!
Good tip!!!

[geargnasher]

Dan, if you're going to snip, please snip ALL the pertinent data: It only did it with two powders both in the guns and in the tests, not with other guns or powders.

Gear

[Dannix]

It seems all the mould makers here have their own niche, and I'll make a note of 748 and 3031 with carnauba wax lubes, but yeah, Ed's Red after shooting. Thanks for the elaboration Gear!


Look here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101545. Completely custom-made moulds made just like you like them, to your design, just the size you want with the alloy you specify, made of aluminum, iron, or brass to the best quality standards of any mould I have ever seen, and shipped to your door in a couple of weeks. There are plenty of custom mould makers out there, but as long as Tom chooses to offer his services he's the only one I'll patronize. He ended a years-long and seemingly eternal frustration of trying to get a boolit mould that was "just right" for what I needed.

I experienced some rusty bores after using Felix lube with stearic acid and a lot of carnauba wax (the Felix/WilJen recipe from the group buy last year). Since I have been using Felix lube (original) I found that just a patch-out after shooting is all I needed to do to preserve the "season" of the bore and was good for months in the safe. When I changed lubes I had the problem after shooting 748, but not as bad with 3031. Guns I've shot with other powders and the same lube haven't had this problem at all, so I did some tests on a saw blade and concluded that for some reason the lube with carnauba wax reacted with burned 748 and 3031 and flash-rusted. Regular Felix lube without carnauba had no issues, and it wasn't the stearic acid as far as I can tell. Carnauba Red did the same thing with the same two powders in my tests. I lost interest in the tests since I proved to myself what I needed to know (use Ed's Red after shooting!), but if you use a lube with Carnauba Wax in it you might watch for rust if you don't clean and oil your bores regularly.

Gear

[S.R.Custom]

Automatic transmission oil... is there anything it can't do?

[Bullshop]

gear
Yes Sir your right, still very interesting. I wonder why? I thought powders were pretty much the same ingredients but different proportions and of course grain size and shape. What is different with those two and most likely others that also contain whatever that is.
Also interesting is that Glen Larson sells lube with carnauba but all I have ever seen for his lube is praise. No warnings about rusting barrels with any powders. What is the difference there? Lots of people in fact using carnauba in thier own lube but this is the first time I have heard anything about it combining with certain types of powder to cause rust.
It is very interesting and I would like to know why.

[btroj]

I use carnuba red exclusively. Have never used 3031 and only a bit of 748. I have never seen any rust in any of my barrels which are rarely cleaned at all.
Interesting that it happened with just those powders. I too would be interested to know why.

I also learned last year that the worst word to hear is "BEST". Is their really a best anything in most shooting situations? I think beat is in the eye of the beholder therefore it varies from person to person which means there is no universal best. Rant over.

[Charlie Sometimes]

Soilent Green is people, too. :razz:

I meant Simple Green is good to clean cases. :oops: :lol:

[crabo]

1. I've learned that every gun can be different. What works well with one, may fail miserably with another.

2. I've learned WD WWs are going to work in some guns, and the same velocity in another gun and caliber, may work better with 50/50 pb and ww that are air cooled.

3. I've learned that I have got to quit buying molds for guns that I do not have.

Except for #3, these were not learned this year.

One that I just learned was that fillers can really help tighten up a group and cut deviations in half.

[home in oz]

Collect and hoard lead.

[kelbro]

45/45/10

[Bullshop]

Bullshop boolits & lube

[Charlie Sometimes]

Bullshop boolits & lube

I wonder how long that would take to pop up! :lol:
I need to try that bullplate lube, someday.

[arjacobson]

Pewter hunting for cheap tin is my #1. JPW is a close second

[noylj]

[Originally Posted by noylj
and commented on by RobS:
2 I learned that many people consider low smoke and not getting their guns dirty as more important than how accurate a given powder is.
Indoor shooting may be of their concern as they can't see through the smoke which may affect their accuracy; cowboy shooting much the same.
All I shoot is lead indoors and I have never noticed smoke, until this year when I read all sorts of people whining about it. I say--put them on black powder for a week and then come back and talk to me.
4 I learned that a LOT of reloaders see case expansion as only being case mouth belling and NOT getting the case ID to within 0.001" of bullet diameter, and then they don't understand why their lead bullets are being swaged down.
Yes and no, for revolvers shooting magnum loads neck tension is very important in keeping the boolit from jumping crimp. .001 under boolit diameter often times will not be enough to keep a boolit in place and especially for the last few rounds in regards to magnum revolver loads
Neck tension better not be that critical since they should be using a good roll crimp. They are NOT getting increased neck tension, they are simply swaging down their bullet. You pull apart almost any cast bullet load and you will find the case neck ID is 0.001" less than bullet diameter, not matter these numbers were before you seated the bullet.
Again, I learned that people do not tear their loads down and learn what is really going on.
8 I learned that WWs are a thing of the past
not gone yet but state by state will be in the very near future
If you can find them, they are mixed with zinc and steel and you have to buy the bucket and it isn't worth it.

[shdwlkr]

What I learned is that group buys should be avoided at all costs, yea right
Second you never know when life is going to step up and ruin your life.

[pls1911]

1. kroil... yup
2. stretch ww, lino and babbit alloys ...mix with free pure lead for a low antimony alloy which will still heat treat to 22+ and retain maleability in place of brittleness.
3. make friends with a roofing contractor... ( 2000 pounds free lead so far, and it cleans up well and ingots to 9-10 brynnell!)

[justingrosche]

This year I have learned that Bullplate is made from the tears of angels, and use a primer flip tray for flipping gas checks,cup up.
Justin

[SciFiJim]

and use a primer flip tray for flipping gas checks,cup up.

That's a new one for me. I'll add that to my 2011 tips list.

[firefly1957]

first if it was not for the mention of citric acid I would think this thread is for casting?

What I have leaned about this forum is there :
1 seem to be some very knowledgeable people out here.
2 More than a few of you are in my age range.
3 Why I had so much trouble with a Lyman Zouave 35 years ago.
4 This is the most civilized group I have seen on the net. yet.
5 The moderators do a fine job here.
6 I am not the only one who shoots old or oddball calibers.
7 Eds Red works well even though I have the formula in a old book it was feed back here that convinced me to mix some up.
8 There are many more people who need help with simple problems that they can get here.
9 Politics is inescapable for gun-owners and rust and politicians are a guns worst enemy.
10 Ten is not enough but will give you the rough idea!

[Dale53]

I have been a member of this "family" since 2005 (good grief, that is six years ago:shock:) and even tho' I have been casting bullets and reloading for sixty years or so, I have learned a good bit simply by sharing techniques. I commercially cast for a number of years and there are few who can turn out the quantity of match quality bullets that I can. However, I can truthfully say, on here, I have probably met my match:drinks:.

One thing I picked up in the past couple of years (from Mike Venturino) is the use of a manicurist's fan. You can find them in the fan department of Walmart's or Target Stores (I got mine in Target) for less than $10.00. I have mine positioned less than a foot above my mould working area. After I fill the mould I slide it over under the fan and the sprue is hard in 2-3 seconds (by the clock) and it also helps me maintain the mould temperature without ANY extra effort. I NEVER have to cool a mould, whether it is a large caliber multi-cavity or a small single or double cavity mould. It is a BIG help in production of good numbers of bullets in a very short time. Using a six cavity .44 or .45 mould I can empty my RCBS pot (20-21 lbs of finished bullets) in less than an hour without trying. This is just a steady pace with NO interruptions to do this or that. "This or that" is no longer needed. All of this without having water in the vicinity of the hot lead.

A side benefit to the fan is that it is cooling the pile of cast bullets (I shove them to the rear of the fan) while I am casting. This allows me to pack them up for my trip from the utility barn to the house when I finish (instead of going back a half hour or so later). This is just another little convenience that pleasures me.

THAT (the fan) would be one tip I would put on the list.

Dale53

[ItZaLLgooD]

I like the 45/45/10 lube recipe. The citric acid brass cleaner has also sped up the reloading process for me.

[goofyoldfart]

Dale53 : thank you for the tip on the fan, Oh and that goes for Mike also. I've been casting for about 60 years also, started at 5 yrs. with my Uncle Joe (very kind, BUT STRICT) and his very watchful eyes. Still, it seems like every time that I peruse these pages , I find either a new trick or a mention of something that kicks those missing neurons in my brain back into alignment. So, while I am an old timey boolit caster, I wish to say a BIG THANK YOU to all the fine people on this site for some of the new tricks that this old dog has learned, keep 'em coming. God Bless to all.

P.S. I also want to comment on the courtesy of this site. this site and the one at <www,go2gbo> are in a tie as far as I'm concerned, though each site does get a "little" hot when it comes to politics and religion. Love it---hahahaha[smilie=l::groner:

[soldierbilly1]

OK, here is my contribution.
Buy, read, and live, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition.
Available at Optics Planet for about $17.
Rookies and Intermediates cannot go wrong with the foremost authority on the subject.
Have Fun!
Billy Boy

[skeet1]

Use of gloved hand to open the sprue plate instead of the mallet for a better cut sprue.

Ken

[geargnasher]

This year I have learned that Bullplate is made from the tears of angels, and use a primer flip tray for flipping gas checks,cup up.
Justin

Good one! I'll have to remember that. As far a primer flip trays, I have a red one, green one, an orange one, and about two dozen black ones. The Lee ones that come with the safety prime kit for the turret press are head and shoulders above the rest in effectiveness. They have little teats on the surface of the tray instead of the usual concentic rings, MUCH better. Two shakes will flip 100 primers over every time.

Gear

[XWrench3]

1) for most pistol applications, air cooled is better than water dropped. 2) kroil, is great stuff, but not in aluminum molds. 3) Ed's Red, is just awesome. 4) finding a good, consistent lead source, is a lot harder than it sounds. 5) use jacketed bullets (this cuts much faster) and fine valve grinding compound to enlarge your sizing dies.

[Longwood]

1) for most pistol applications, air cooled is better than water dropped. 2) kroil, is great stuff, but not in aluminum molds. 3) Ed's Red, is just awesome. 4) finding a good, consistent lead source, is a lot harder than it sounds. 5) use jacketed bullets (this cuts much faster) and fine valve grinding compound to enlarge your sizing dies.
I sometimes do fine reaming and hole cleaning by cutting a 1" slit in a dowel or aluminum rod then wrap the end of the rod with a piece of 1" wide emery cloth/paper using the slit to hold the end. Adjust by lengthening or shortening the emery strip. I can take off some fairly tiny amounts doing this but be careful cause you can take of large amounts also.

[1Shirt]

The biggest thing I have learned is to always read the threads posted by:
Beagle
44 Man
Larry Gibson
Ben
Brent
Lloyd Smiley
Felix
Bullshop
Mike Venterino
And a few others I can't think of off the top of the head. Not that there are not others who are worth reading. However, believe in going with known realities.

Have never found their posts to be anything but informative. Occaisionally controversial as well, but well thought out. Any day I don't learn something is a day wasted. Never have one of those days when I am on line with Castboolits.
1Shirt!:coffee:

[Crash_Corrigan]

The biggest thing I have learned is to always read the threads posted by:
Beagle
44 Man
Larry Gibson
Ben
Brent
Lloyd Smiley
Felix
Bullshop
Mike Venterino

And to this list we must also add:

Bruce B as he seems to have a good handle on the care and feeding of Military Rifles and he has no agenda to espouse.

His speed casting technique is outstanding and I have found it very helpful and a valuable way to get more boolits made in less time with a minimum of fuss and muss.

[Nick2010]

get a good board or mallet to hit sprue tops or you just go through to many.....haven't found a good one yet.

[ricksplace]

get a good board or mallet to hit sprue tops or you just go through to many.....haven't found a good one yet.

Try a rubber mallet. Easy on the sprue plate and does not wear.

[canyon-ghost]

2 I learned that many people consider low smoke and not getting their guns dirty as more important than how accurate a given powder is.



Lord have mercy if that's where accuracy has gone!

[JudgeBAC]

Learned how to make 45/45/10 using a $6 crock pot. Also learned that we should all read Glen's internet manifesto on bullet casting; best tome I have ever read on bullet casting by far.

[noylj]

I know some use welding gloves and open the sprue with their hands. They seem to like it, but i haven't ever tried it.

[Capn Jack]

Putting a large (Rimmed) cookie sheet under your bottom drop
lead pot to contain any possable spills. (Think I read it here some place)

Jack...:coffee:

[crabo]

Putting a large (Rimmed) cookie sheet under your bottom drop
lead pot to contain any possable spills. (Think I read it here some place)

Jack...:coffee:

That works great for shotshell reloading.

[crabo]

get a good board or mallet to hit sprue tops or you just go through to many.....haven't found a good one yet.

I bought a hickory sledge hammer handle and cut off the first part, intending to use the rest as I needed it. I drilled a hole in the end and poured in lead.

After I started to beat up the end, I started wrapping the end in masking tape. This puts a cushion on the end and is easy on the molds. Periodically, I make a few more wraps of tape.

I like it better than anything I have used yet.

[eniku40]

I know some use welding gloves and open the sprue with their hands. They seem to like it, but i haven't ever tried it.

Welding gloves are always great to have around the house. Very versatile.

Just remember that they are not totally heat proof - so don't hold on to very hot items for long as the heat will get though (and very suddenly) .

[Capn Jack]

I had trouble with my welding gloves because they were so stiff and the large cuffs got in my way.
Next I tried Oven Gloves. They blocked the heat, but I was afraid any liquid lead would go right through the weave. Now I wear a large pair of cotton garden gloves over the Oven Gloves and that solves the problem. Any spills solidify on the cotton and the Oven Glove blocks the heat.:p

Jack...8-)

[Net_Ranger101]

try to keep your loading / casting area clean and well organized
it makes it easier to find what it is your looking for

keep a good record of your loads....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[David2011]

I learned that if you shoot differently than someone else they may not understand it.

"2 I learned that many people consider low smoke and not getting their guns dirty as more important than how accurate a given powder is."

This is correct but you may have not learned why it is important. Try firing 8 rounds in 2 seconds while looking and shooting into a morning sun and watch your targets disappear in the smoke. Try shooting 300 rounds in one day without being able to clean a match grade autoloader shooting cast boolits and wax lube. A gun can get really dirty, affecting function and accuracy. I have no need for 2" or better 50 yard groups when shooting at .25 second splits or better, mostly at 15 yards or less. Probably mostly at 5 to 10 yards, sometimes closer. The closer they get the faster the shots come out. I need to be able to see the target. It's the lighting that makes the difference. The same loads 2 hours later in the day aren't a problem because the sun is more overhead.

When playing the IPSC game or other speed shooting events you learn quickly that the standards are different than for slow long distance shooting or hunting. I do both and have vastly different requirements of ammunition in my STI Edge in .40 S&W compared to my scoped TC Contender in .44 Mag for which I want better than 2" at 50 yard groups.

David

[guidogoose]

I've learned that I wish I had found and joined this site sooner! Lots of good info and tips!

[sw282]

l have learned "boolits" and bullets aint the same

[Casper29]

I learned that Fast is Slow and Slow is Fast when turning out really good boolits.

[fatelvis]

Bullplate treatment and Speedgreen lube. Awesome products! Truly a game changer in casting and loading.

[slim1836]

My greatest tip was to read and learn from others on this site. It taught me a lot, much more than any book on the market. The members on this site are great.

Slim

[Christorbust]

I've learned that casting with your Lee bottom pour in a cookie sheet pan is a good idea in case it decides to empty its bowels entirely O'lead :holysheep

I've also learned that writing down everything I do when reloading in a specific place is a great tool for troubleshooting recreating loads, who knew the pen was also mightier than the brain.

[Airborne Falcon]

1. Slug your barrel. How else will you know the answer to the #1 issue- FIT!
2. You're unlikely to get lead poisoning unless you don't wash, turn your pot up WAY too hot, and lick all the spent primers you collect.
3. Collect your wheelweights now. They're unlikely to be around much longer.
There's a small start.

Three good ones right there.

[Patrick L]

Two biggest things I learned in 2012 were

1. to start hoarding lead like a miser, and

2. how to sort WW with wire cutters

[holeysocks]

Please Don't pour it down the toilet.. I have to work where it goes!! and it will make me sick :)

[1Shirt]

If I have learned nothing else, it is that it is never to late to learn! This forum makes me realize that every time I open it!
1Shirt!

[prs]

If you are push'n the trigger instead of pull'n it, turn the fire arm around right quick.

prs

[SciFiJim]

If I have learned nothing else, it is that it is never to late to learn! This forum makes me realize that every time I open it!
1Shirt!

That's why my sig line is what it is!

[vogironface]

I used a length of grey schedule 80 pvc pipe with the end of it "capped" with cardboard cereal box taped in place like a little top hat over the end. Then a third of the pipe was filled with bad boolits wide enough to almost fill the inner diameter followed up with rolled up cardboard to hold the lead in the front third of my weighted sprue persuader. The end is taped to keep the plug in place. Works great, very durable and the tape can be replaced if it wears out after about a thousand or two sprue whacks.


get a good board or mallet to hit sprue tops or you just go through to many.....haven't found a good one yet.

[millsa2]

I have learned where to buy tumbleing media and howto treat it among other things. Thanks

[pls1911]

With only 25 years of casting I cannot add a thing except I learn something new every year... THIS YEAR was 45/45/10 as a final coat on any other lube.
Over kill yes, but I've also never had ANY problems leading......ever.

[Chilmonty]

As a Newb here, I have learned that I have a ****Load to Learn!

I now spend my lunch hour everyday at work reading everything I can here while I eat.

Hey, thats a pretty good tip right there! :)

[SciFiJim]

I now spend my lunch hour everyday at work reading everything I can here while I eat.

If you can get by with only an hour a day on this site, you are a disciplined man. It seems to absorb time every time I sit down at the computer.

[40Super]

I now spend my lunch hour everyday at work reading everything I can here while I eat.

Hey, thats a pretty good tip right there! :)


I've been doing that for several years when possible.:coffeecom

[Ric-san]

Reading this post has given me some great tips on this hobby...thanks to all

[searcher4851]

I guess the most important thing I've learned here is that no matter how much I read, there's always more good information waiting to be read.

[chutesnreloads]

I origionaly came to this forum seeking advice loading some cheap cast bullets in a 9mm(and no it still doesn't shoot them well).What I've learned this past year is ,if you associate with people with filthy habits(like melting metals)...you WILL pick up the same filthy habits.Thanks to many of you and LOTS of reading ,most of it here,casting was really not as big a challenge as I'd first expected and its been LOADS of fun.Thanks to all of you.

[BSalty]

I have learned that many years spent loading "J-word" loads, means exactly squat once you open the casting door and walk through it.

But the best tip I have received (and there have been MANY) is the lead hardening over time. That explained a whole lot of my problems.

[40Super]

Yup^^ If your getting some leading and your boolits were cast less than a week to week-and-a-half before, let them sit for another 2 weeks and retry. When I got in a rush and cast up a pile of boolits from a new mold, I didn't want to wait so I water dropped them and loaded some up within a couple days. I got some leading, once I set them aside for a month and shot some more, all went good. Better accuracy and no leading. It's now standard practice to plan ahead and cast the boolits I plan to shoot at least a month down the road.
Don't wait to size them though, they can be rather a pain to do it once age hardened.

[jlchucker]

I have learned that if I log onto Cast Boolits and read the things that people post that I can learn something new every day.

[bangerjim]

Learned about:

> Gluelits
> lubing - what and what not to use (45/45/10 is the best!) (not straight mule snot)
> Re-loading in's & out's / up's & down's / over's & under's
> How long it takes to read some of these threads that are 150+ pages long!?!?!?
> Not to fret about the 3 ring circus in Washington DC doing the "Olde Ammo Grab".....just load 'em myself!
> Just about anything I want to know that I did not need to know I needed to know! :D


"People that think they know everything..........really piss of those of us that do!"

[BBQJOE]

With only 25 years of casting I cannot add a thing except I learn something new every year... THIS YEAR was 45/45/10 as a final coat on any other lube.
Over kill yes, but I've also never had ANY problems leading......ever.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f172/barbecuejoe/this_zps5f1b2330.jpg
I'm gonna try!

[otter5555]

#1 tip......cast a BUNCH. use whatever you got. it aint rocket science.

just like shootin'. the more you shoot, the more you learn, the better you get.

[pls1911]

Maybe I missed it, but i didn't put it in my earlier post.
A primer in the sweepings will empty a 20 pot of lead in .0002 nano-seconds.... straight up.
dufus....
It's been a lot of years, but you don't soon forget cleaning that up off the ceiling.

[Pakprotector]

Thanks for the tip, I will file it away for when I am done casting for air guns...LOL Cast boolits can fly waaaay better than pellets; that is why I am here so that I can learn to make 'em myself.
cheers,
Douglas

[kdiver58]

#1 PID's just rock .. the longer I have it the more I use it
#2 The plug and wire off of your wife's old hairdryer has a circuit breaker on it that works perfect for a PID setup
#3 In the late 70's I was poor and had to cast. 30+ years later I pulled my old casting stuff out . Last notes were 1980. What is old is new again
#4 Lithi-bee still works well
#5 being a tool and die maker since 1975 and having the tools is making casting a lot more fun ( I mod everything )
#6 The hotplate warmer seems so dirt-bag simple I wonder why it never occurred to me
#7 Mining the outdoor range for lead !

[Slow Elk 45/70]

Great, the more info casters can find in one place, the better chance that they will find the info they should be using to better their casting.:2_high5:

[Donor8x56r]

Something I learned by watching someone else today (work related but applies to casting as well):

-Be humble.No matter how much you think you know one day it will change.
-Being know-it-all smart-*** wont get you anywhere but in trouble.

[Redhorse702]

Speaking of which.. I just bought a 5 gallon bucket o wheelweights.. they are NOT all lead... 20% are a zinc combination... they do not melt!!!

[Capt. Methane]

Speaking of which.. I just bought a 5 gallon bucket o wheelweights.. they are NOT all lead... 20% are a zinc combination... they do not melt!!!

The sintered iron ones won't melt either but it's kind of funny watching a piece of iron bobbing around on a liquid like a cork on water!

Brass molds like to run hot, warm them on the stove top!

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

I've learned that EVERY question you ask here, gets a minimum of two completely different answers.8-)
But there are plenty of folks willing to help and lots of good tips.

[jmort]

That may seem to be the case, but often there is a best answer/practice and then the lesser/wrong answer/practice. The truth is out there, you may have to dig/think.

[Jayhawkhuntclub]

That may seem to be the case, but often there is a best answer/practice and then the lesser/wrong answer/practice. The truth is out there, you may have to dig/think.
Absolutely. I think getting the ideas out there so you can sort through them and find what works for you is what it's all about. It's a process.:wink:

[fa38]

Never trust what is written on a sizing die as to its true sizing diameter. I have I think, six .30 cal sizing dies and only one sizes to its stated diameter.

[knobster]

I didn't read through all the pages so I may have missed it...

I've learned that you can't hurry when casting. Haste does indeed make waste. Luckily the waste can easily be tossed back into the pot.

[BruceB]

" Haste does indeed make waste."

Naturally, we have no idea how extensive your experience may be when you say that "I have learned...."

However, let it be known that there is a very distinct difference between "haste" and "EFFICIENCY".

It is no great trick to produce 400-500 GOOD bullets per hour from a two-cavity mould, or to cast 800-1000 good bullets per hour from a four-cavity mould. All it takes is a reasonable amount of correct organization.

Do a search here for "speedcasting" and you should come up with my original article on the subject.

Many on this website have tried it with excellent results.

[lka]

1. Read stuff on this site
2. Collect lead and other supply's when you can because one elected ******* can make one speech and ruin your hobby for months.
3. Just do it (with safe charges) and learn from your own mistakes.
4. Take your time and try to understand why things don't work.
5. Barrel test before going to the range.
6. Don't lick the lead bars.
7. Don't let your kids lick the lead bars.
8. Read the stickies before asking questions, seems frowned upon.
9. Have fun and collect all the brass you can while having fun.
10. Shoot a ton after the ******* talks because you followed rule #2

[typz2slo]

I have learned that I should have started hoarding lead a long time ago.
Also read the stickies. There are always two solutions to the problem and both may work.

[CHeatermk3]

...Do a search here for "speedcasting" and you should come up with my original article on the subject.
Just tried, no findee..

[jonp]

1) Read about everything you can on this site first
2) Start casting.
3) Ask questions here if something doesn't look/go right and it probably won't the first few tries.
4) Start casting again

Almost forgot: Just because a spoon you are using to skim the melt is not glowing red does not mean it is cool enough to pick up with your bare fingers. You will get a blister. PAY ATTENTION

[wacki]

Tagged for later reading.

[mdi]

That may seem to be the case, but often there is a best answer/practice and then the lesser/wrong answer/practice. The truth is out there, you may have to dig/think.
Yep, read then apply a hefty dose of common sense...

[kbstenberg]

Keep 2-3 warmed ingots close by when casting. If the pot goes into fast dump mode. Put the ingots into the pot to freeze the lead. The reason I say warm ingots, If you through cold ingots into hot lead the tinsel fairy mite show up.
Always keep one of those long nosed bick lighters handy. To help unfreeze the downspout nozzle on the melter.

[michiganmike]

A "Well duh" rule I always practice: Check and double check your work throughout the entire process, from examining the fired brass to pressing the bullet into the cleaned, resized, primed and charged brass. I have saved myself several potential problems. Several have occurred when charging the brass with longer stick powder. I recall finding one with half a charge and the next with a 150% charge.

[robg]

I now know so much I realise I know nothing .

[Crummyshooter]

I have started using 2 pots, when I am going to make a long run. A lee 10 pound to keep the make up molten and a Lyman 25 for casting. Helps keep the casting pot up to temp.

[The_Hammer]

I've learned that I do not know enough about casting even though I've been doing it for awhile.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

good stuff to re-read...

[pietro]

.

Instead of ordering a package of the Lewis Lead Remover brass patches from Brownells at $3.99 per 10, you can order some brass pipe screens from a smoking supply shop for $7.84 per 100 with free shipping. (1" diameter)

They can be ordered in multiple sizes and the only difference is the hole in the middle.

How hard can it be to make a hole ? ............

Hope this helps some of you cast boolit shooters.


http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n47/cnjarvis/afdcee41-9342-4a01-b90e-a4122f25b2fd_zpsdvnqsnrf.jpg



.

[Big Mak]

What is a good mold protectant to apply once I store my molds for a while? I'm about done casting for this year's batch of bullets (thanks to miserable weather! Nothing to do but cast and make boolits!)

[noylj]

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http://metprogroup.com/contentblockphotos/display/40/vapour-corrosion-inhibitor-paper.jpgVCI CORROSION PROTECTION

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PAPERS AT A
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HOW IT WORKS (http://metprogroup.com/products/products/anti-corrosion-paper#works)

MetPro's anti-corrosion paper is nitrite-free and tested by accredited laboratories. They are designed to address the many challenges encountered in the long term protection of steel, cast iron, chrome, copper, brass and zinc, and they are available in a wide range of options. It is also possible to completely avoid the use of protective oils and liquids. Simply remove the paper and the previously protected part can be used immediately!

[Tom W.]

If i have trouble with my molds and cleaning and smoking doesn't help I'll give them a healthy shot of Remoil.After a few more casts the wrinkles disappear.

Yes, I know that this is a tad late, but I was in the hospital for most of last year....

[toallmy]

All the above + start casting now don't wait 30-40 years . O yea the real Cast Boolit handbook is the archives !

[smilin jack]

Started casting 197X and still going.
Finding Pb at tire shops is no more.
Range lead is OK but slow.
Medical lead (radiation storage devises) are about 30 lbs.
Ship yards often have sailboat lead keels for sale. 1000 pounds. Use tarp to catch the lead chips from the chainsaw.
Save dropped Brigit lead free solder scraps to sweeten the smelting pot. It's mostly silver and works on werewolfs.
Learned there is more time to cast, shoot and read about it after retirement.
Learned that picking up range brass really does add up. Started 60 years ago and now have shelves of coffee cans filled and sorted with many calibers. Trade off the ones we don't need. Molds for each caliber loaded.
Really like the new style locator pins on Lee molds, and use Never-seez to lube the sprue cutter and kitchen matches to smoke the cavities.

[markmars]

OK, here is my contribution.
Buy, read, and live, the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 4th edition.
Available at Optics Planet for about $17.
Rookies and Intermediates cannot go wrong with the foremost authority on the subject.
Have Fun!
Billy Boy
Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 5th edition is now out I'm reading it now. I have the 4th edition as well. Another one is "The Handbook of Commercial Bullet Casting" 3rd edition by Paul B. Moore.
I've learn to keep older editions of reloading books and compare it to the new ones.

Edit: My mistake I have the 3rd edition and I'm ready the 4th edition.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook, 5th edition is now out I'm reading it now. I have the 4th edition as well. Another one is "The Handbook of Commercial Bullet Casting" 3rd edition by Paul B. Moore.
I've learn to keep older editions of reloading books and compare it to the new ones.

Is this a typo?
If not, it's news to me.

[roscottjr]

Is this a typo?
If not, it's news to me.

News here to, I even searched for it and found nothing.

[Conditor22]

only 5th edition I found was shot shell

[firewhenready7]

You sound like a real Tom Sawyer...LOL

[sniper]

Hard to say. I learned so much. I learned I am not alone in my quest for knowledge.

Absolutely!:grin:

[Arseniy Botkin]

first if it was not for the mention of citric acid I would think this thread is for casting?

What I have leaned about this forum is there :
1 seem to be some very knowledgeable people out here.
2 More than a few of you are in my age range.
3 Why I had so much trouble with a Lyman Zouave 35 years ago.
4 This is the most civilized group I have seen on the net. yet.
5 The moderators do a fine job here.
6 I am not the only one who shoots old or oddball calibers.
7 Eds Red works well even though I have the formula in a old book it was feed back here that convinced me to mix some up.
8 There are many more people who need help with simple problems that they can get here.
9 Politics is inescapable for gun-owners and rust and politicians are a guns worst enemy.
10 Ten is not enough but will give you the rough idea!

You have noticed it very beautifully and accurately! 9 Politics is inevitable for gun owners, and rust, and politicians are the worst enemies of guns.

[Vettepilot]

I've learned a ton, keep learning everytime I log on, and love it!! And it gives ya a "warm fuzzy feeling" just knowing it's here.

My tip. I've got a leather working mallet that I just LOVE for casting!
https://www.amazon.com/QWORK-Leather-Carving-Leathercraft-Straight/dp/B08K8YMPT1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Leather+working+mallet&qid=1620007957&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSUZaVjA4SUpGM1AmZ W5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2MjEwNDEzTDBVR0NEMU1PN0ZWJmVuY3J 5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NTQ0MTMxODdMTFQ1V0JIUUJWJndpZGdld E5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm9 0TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I learned I got into the game WAY too late, and now I'm considering buying an old lead mine and working it myself!!
;~)

Great site, great people, great info.... what else can I say?

Edit to add: If ya buy one of the mallets, unscrew it into pieces, and Loctite all the threads. Mine came unscrewed one day while casting and nearly scared the poop outta me! (Just missed dropping parts of it into the lead when I jerked from the surprise.) I Loctited the two threaded parts, and it's been perfect ever since. It's comfortable, handy, easy on spruce plates, and seemingly indestructible. Did I mention it's the perfect weight too? :lovebooli

Thanks!!!
Vettepilot

[Cosmic_Charlie]

If your boolits are not falling from your mold nicely your mold is too hot. Boolits need to cool and shrink a little to come loose.

[David2011]

If your boolits are not falling from your mold nicely your mold is too hot. Boolits need to cool and shrink a little to come loose.

That made a light bulb come on. I know I’m guilty of letting my molds run a little hot. Thanks!

[Vettepilot]

Yeah. Except I'm working with some shotgun slug molds that have a core pin. In that case, as the boolit cools, it gets stuck tighter on the pin. But if you try to get it off too soon, the still soft lead will deform.

Vettepilot

[Chaparral66]

I'm a big fan of EEz-Ox for preventing rust. I've been using it on guns, table say decks, band saw decks and anything I want to keep from rusting. If you are running Lee aluminum molds it will help prevent the white oxidation that can be seen on unprotected aluminum. Another option is put them in a "Freezer" Zip-lok bag with dessicant. The blue crystal Fresh Step cat litter is silica gel just like in the little packets that come in new electronics. And the crystals are reusable simply by baking them at about 250 °F for 20-30 minutes.

Cast on my friend.

[OKMike]

This is awesome


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