10 cav ?

[686]

H&G did make 10 cav. molds. they were heavy buy put out a lot of bullets. why can't a 10 cav. be made out of alum?

[blaser.306]

I beleive that NOE is making some of their boolit moulds available in 8 and 10 cavity !

[BCall]

NOE is doing 10 cavity, but it is a double sided mold. 5 on one side, flip it over and 5 on the other.

[Thumbcocker]

My casting mentor had some. He sadi using them would "give you forearms like Popeye"

[Hank10]

I have a 10 cav. H&G .38 SWC. Heavy but I can crank out a lot of bullets with it.
It's the one mold, that I have, that I can cast more bullets in an hour than I usually shoot in an hour. Got a lot of 4s and a few 6s but that 10 is the ticket.
H10

[BLTsandwedge]

I have a 10 cav. H&G .38 SWC. Heavy but I can crank out a lot of bullets with it.
It's the one mold, that I have, that I can cast more bullets in an hour than I usually shoot in an hour. Got a lot of 4s and a few 6s but that 10 is the ticket.
H10

+1....but I need a little propane stove burner to keep it hot enough while I run the H&G 6-cavity alongside. Sure piles up the H&G #50s................

[dverna]

The 10 cavity H&G molds were awesome. Like a fool I sold mine for $100 after I got out of Bullseye shooting in the late 70's.

Don

[Beau Cassidy]

They weight a little over 7 lbs. I can cycle my .38 mold about every 50 seconds using the Magma 40 lb. pot. Lots of bullets fast. I keep several of my friends supplied with .38's. It is a bear to heat up and when you do get it up to operating temp it is difficult to stop for that reason.

[bobthenailer]

i have used several of a friends 10/8 cavity h & g moulds. they are heavy and must be used with some sort of mould guide or rest. he used a large piece of flat steel to set the mould on
i have 5 - 8 cavity saecos moulds they cast like a dream ! they to are somewhat heavy about 3 1/2 lb with handles, but alot lighter than h&g moulds . they mould handel hinges from the rear instead of the front , and this speeds production, and they will fit the lyman / rcbs mould guide
but i perfer the lyman! i have one on my rcbs as it supports the weight better as it is a long channel instead of a L shaped rod.

[686]

does any one have a H&G 34 8-10 cav 230gr rn bb mold they would sale? did they make a mold in a bigger bullet in the 8-10 cav? it would be a little lighter than a 38cal mold.

[casterofboolits]

I have three eight cavity H&G moulds for the #68, one of which is the old style #68 with the small front driving band and an .060 BB. I removed .045 from the top of the mould and it now drops a 185 grain #68 with about .015 of BB. Also a ten cavity #51.358 38 SWC.

Heavy? You betcha! But they sure make plenty of great boolits! The only problem is that I had a stroke that affected the dexterity of my left hand. That was eighteen years ago and the moulds helped me get my strength back in my left arm. But now, I'm starting to get cramps in my left thumb when using the moulds for more than a couple hours. I may have to replace them with a couple of the four cavity Lyman H&G clones.

My eight cavity Saeco moulds are all for the 38 Super. #928, #929 and the #930. I do not like Saeco moulds in sizes above 38 as they heat up too quickly. Saeco only makes four cavity moulds now. The Saeco sissor handles are indeed easier to use than the nutcracker handles if H&G and Lyman. How they would work with aluminum moulds, I have no idea.

If I were buying good quality six cavity moulds now, I would probably look at the Ballisti-Cast six cavity moulds. But, the $300.00 cost would probably keep me away from them!

I use RCBS 10 Kilo pots and if you hit the "L" shaped mould guide with one of the large H&G moulds you can knock it loose. I have become quite adept at restaking the collar to the sheet metal frame!

[tommygirlMT]

10 cavity is nothing --- nicest mold I have ever seen was a 100 cavity --- Eleven precision rectangle strips of steel sliding in a set of rails with alignment pins mounted over a hole in the bench connected to each other on the ends via a length of roller chain --- ten rows of ten cavities cut in a grid along the ten seperation lines between the eleven strips --- one giant sprue plate 1/2+ thick at the edges that was dished in the middle like a saucer with individual sprue holes cut inside the big saucer with a counter sink type cutter --- The 11th rear strip was held to the rails on either side with a bolt and it had the sprue plate pivot bolt in it --- two big coil springs in the front held all the block strips tightly together up against the rear block

Opperator used a great big iron scoop and pored making a giant big bubble sprue puddle that fed all 100 cavities --- one it hardened you turned a big lever that was gear reduced for lots of leverage that broke the sprue and a several complete rotations later rotated it 90 degrees of to the side --- then you grabbed the loop of roller chain in the front and pulled against the spring tension --- when fully extended all the little mold block strips with the cavities between them were spaced out about an inch apart from each other because that is how their ends were attached to the roller chain which looped in the front to grab a hold of as a handle and all 100 boolits dropped down through the hole in the bench beneath the mold into a waiting bucket of water on the floor below --- upon releasing the chain the coil springs would push the strips blocks all back towards the rear sliding in the rails until they all were back in a square 10x10 grid of cavities again with their alignment pins all holding them precisely together then you turned the big handle several turns in the opposite direction and its gear reduced drive rotated the big square sprue plate back into position for the next pore

The one I saw made 150gr. single lube groove single crimp groove plain base SWC bullets in in 358 caliber

NOW THATS A PRODUCTION MOLD