Pre-WWII Mauser Sporter question

[Char-Gar]

Does anyone have or have access to a real pre-wwII Mauser Sporter? I would like to know the length of the forend from the from of the trigger guard/floor plate assembly to the tip of the forend.

[waksupi]

Charger, I don't have one on hand, but rule of thumb on the sporters, is 2/5 the length of the barrel.

[Char-Gar]

That is right in line with Roy Dunlap... He says a 9.5 to 10" forend with a 24" bbl. Your 2/5 ths. formula comes out to 9.6" with a 24" bbl. I think I will go with your figure. Thanks.. Charles

[KCSO]

I have a pre war stock in the store room i will measure it. It seems to me that when re stocked the gun the fore stock was real short and spindly and the owner wanted more wood. My current Mauser sporter is a full stock. This restock job was broken through the wrist and was an adjustable cheekpiece made in about 1920 or so.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks...

[Paul B]

Chargar. The one I have measures out to 8 1/8".Mine is Danzig Mauser made somewhere between 1920 and 1925.
Paul B.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks Paul..

[KCSO]

8.5" and very spindly. If you can get your hands on "Arms of the World 1911" there are a ton of illustrations you can work from. If not let me know and I will copy some off for you.

[Paul B]

8.5" and very spindly. If you can get your hands on "Arms of the World 1911" there are a ton of illustrations you can work from. If not let me know and I will copy some off for you.

It may be spindly, but that rifle is as light as a feather. Some joker had P.O. Ackley rebarrel it to a .270 Win. Well, at least the barrel is marked as such. I sure wished he'd left it alone. One of these days when I get up some money (What's that stuff?) I think I'll get it restored and rebarreled to a proper European cartridge. Most likely a 7x57.
Paul B.

[Char-Gar]

Thanks for the info... I am still scratching my head and working out the design in my head. I fitted the butt with an old steel Savage 99 buttplate. I really like the design of this plate. The plate is a hair smaller than the tradition Nieder or other plates, that that alone dictates a slimer buttstock.

The barrel has been cut to 24" and retaines the original steps. The slim buttstock will make a traditional American forend look clubby.

My thinking now is to take the forend down to the Pre 64 Winchester 70 Lighweight configuration. This will make for a short and light forend on a 24" standard weight barrel.

I will see how all of that looks and feels. It there is too much forend, then I will go down to the 8 to 8.25" hyper thin Euro forend.

The rifle will have a butterknife bolt handle and a Redfield receiver sight.

I can't say enough good. about these CZ/Brno made Persian 98/29 barrel actions.
There is a little blue wear on the barrel front storage, but other than that the whole outfit is mint. Not bad for $170.00. The quality is fully equal to the finest commercial action and barrel.

If anybody is wanting to build a 8X57 Mauser sporter I would suggest they get one from SAMCO Global Arms before they are gone. You could rechamber one of these to 8mm/06 and have a bang up big game rifle.

[Doctor Sam]

SAMCO is in Florida. My 98/29 came with a fine layer of rust under the blue. Doesn't shoot any better than my 98/22 Brno.

[LGS]

Charger, I have a copy of Olson's Mauser Sporting rifles. I will try to scan and send some pictures of the rifles. This should give you an idea of what you are wanting.

[Char-Gar]

LGS ... Thank you that will be very helpful

Dr. Sam ... How do you get rust UNDER the blue? IIRC.. The BRNO made Persians were rust blued. The finish is just a blue oxide residue. Rust bluing offers better protection that most chemical hot dip blues, but none do all that well in the protection department. I am not very science minded, but I don't see how you can have blue on top of rust. I think you mean the piece came with rust on it.

I bought a unissued Persian 98/29 from SAMCO back about 94. It was and is pristine. I bought this barreled action from them about 6 months ago and there was no rust or pits of any size, in or out. Some blue wear on the front foot or so of the barrel.

If it doesn't shoot any better than your others Mauser, how does it shoot? Are we talking about full military dress or the accuracy potential of the barrel and action when set up in a good sporter mode. With full military rifles with all the wood and hardware, accuracy often reflects the assembly of the piece rather than the intrinsic accuracy of the barrel and action.

I am not trying to be argumenative..just trying to understand and interpret your post.

[Dale53]

Chargar;
You CAN have blue on top of rust. In my salad days, I tried to "Brown" a single shot rifle barrel (chrome moly). It didn't work, even with a "damp box". I ended up with streaks of rust (minor). I mistakenly thought that since bluing is rust that I could blue right over the rust. WRONG! Actually, I did blue over the rust. Nice blue job too. However, in the bright sun, you can see the rust streaks under the blue. Sigh-h-h-h. so that's how I learned...:confused:.

Dale53

[Char-Gar]

Hummm...Dale you got me to thinking again. IF rust is an iron oxide, which it is, and you can blue iron, which you can, then you might be able to blue rust. So, in my own simple way I can see how your experience came to be. You blued over the rust.

But...back to the original issue. If the BRONO folks didn't blue a rusty rifle and then it rusted later, how can the blue be under the rust. Unless of course, it has been blued again over the underlaying rust, which I assume was not the case.

I suppose the Persians or sombody might have given another blue over the old rusty blue, but I don't think that is what happened.

Am I still wrong..tis possible of course?

[leftiye]

Most browning methods , including rust blue turn black when boiled in water.