New ML pistol

[desteve811]

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd410/desteve1981/e5a7897c.jpg

Santa brought me this new ML pistol. This is my first one. Does anyone else have this and can give me some advice and maybe data to start out with? Going to try to make a range visit on Thursday.

[northmn]

A revolver can be loaded with BP to the point where the ball barely clears the barrel when the action is operated. In other words with BP you cannot overload one with ball. Most plink with about 20-25 grains in a 44 and 15 -20 in a 36. I cannot make out which caliber you have. Generally they use #10 caps but I have used #11 pinched slightly to keep them on when 10's were not available. Make sure the cylinder is clear of oils before loading. Before caps were so expensive we used to snap off a cap on each cylinder. Now I use pipe cleaners and dry cleaning patches run throught the sylinder and nipples to remove oils. Load powder and if it came with wads, the wads, the wads over the powder and then the ball. If no wads put a thin ring of grease around the ball. You can use Crisco grease (lard form) if needed. It will probably shoot high with heavier loads as they were designed to be aimed at the midsection and hit at over longer ranges. Theya re lots of fun and enjoy. The brass frames are recommended to be used with lighter loads and ball that fit snugly but not super tight.
I used to shoot quite a bit of competition with a revolver and really enjoyed the one where we were timed at knocking off 4 blocks of wood from a plank.

DP

[docone31]

Make sure you clean it directly after firing! Especially brass.
That said, it will take .454 balls when casting. You can use wheel weights, but roof lead is better. As said, it will take #10 caps. Either Crisco, or homemade lube will do for lubing. 20-25 gns, it will last a long time. 30gns, and the frame will stretch. 20gns goes a long way.
Those are a trip! I really enjoy mine, and my wife likes her Walker.
Takes longer to shoot.
They are good, well timed pistols.
Enjoy.

[desteve811]

Thanks. It's a 44 cal. What type of powder? I'm assuming #10 caps? Can't wait to shoot it.

[docone31]

I am kinda partial to Pyrodex P.
Seems most of us here like fffg Black Powder.
Your choice.
For lube, I make 50% beeswax, 50% Olive oil. From there, I either stiffen it, or thin it depending on how it behaves.
Works well on leather also.

[mooman76]

You don't want to to fill the cyl up all the way and shoot it in the brass framed guns. It's not dangerous but eventually you will loosen the frame on those brass framed ones. It should have directions on amount of powder charges. I'd start with 15 gr if and work up somewhere in the 20-25gr range. You could probably go higher, whatever is recomended.

[Hellgate]

I have a brass 44 like yours and i do not shoot more than 20grs (by volume) of black powder in it. It could probably handle a steady diet of 25 grs but I don't want to risk it becoming a paper weight by stretching the cylinder pin out of the soft brass frame. The gun will likely hold 30-35 grs powder but a steady diet of those loads would eventually ruin it. All my other C&Bs are steel framed. Those you can pretty much fill the chambers with as much powder as they will hold and they will shoot for many years. Do not fill the chamber chuck full of 777 as that is even more powerful than black powder and would be too much for the gun. Even Pyrodex P full chambers is too hot of a load for the brass framed Colt open tops in my opinion. Your mileage may vary.

BTW the avatar pic is me shooting a steel framed Remington with 20grs BP.

[northmn]

Don't use wheel weight in a brass framed revolver. They load harder and put excess pressure on the pins and wear it out very quickly. This will wreck them quicker than heavy loads.

DP

[Jim]

I'm gonna side with Northmn on this one. These revolvers, ESPECIALLY the brass frame models, are not suitable to heavy loads. Any alloy harder than pure lead will generate higher pressures. How long it takes for that to weaken the frame is yet to be determined.
Go easy, don't try to "magnumize" it and you'll have it to enjoy for years.

[wellfedirishman]

Here is some info on how to load and shoot it:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=101244

Load it gently (20 grains with soft lead balls) and it will last you for quite some time. Enjoy!

[northmn]

when I mention the WW I meant that the loading process is very hard on a brass frame. You have to use more pressure on the rammer whcih in turn generates more pressure on the frame.

DP

[Alan]

I load everything bigger than .31's with 2F black. If you look at Lyman's handbook, 2F produces 2/3 the pressure of 3F, which produces 2/3 the pressure of 4F. I don't own a brass-framed revolver, but I wouldn't shoot anything but real 2F in it if I did.

Alan

[Dframe]

I've used FF for many years. As has been stated use only 20-25 grains and soft lead. You'll get many years of service out of your revolver. Avoid petroleum based lubricants. the best are vegetable based oils or greases, though I personally don't like crisco (extraordinarily messy) I use T/Cs bore butter. Thorough cleaning with hot soap and water is essential. One trick given to me by a wise old geezer is to take the pistol out a day or two AFTER cleaning to check it and replace the protectant oil. Keep a few packets of "wet wipes" in your shooting kit. They're great for a quick wipedown of the cylinder during long shooting sessions and help keep your hands clean.