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Josh Smith
12-12-2010, 06:55 PM
Hello,

I cast my own muzzleloader balls, as well as modern .452" bullets. I prefer to cast as cool as possible so as not to frost the ball, but warm enough as to not get wrinkles and voids.

I've found the best mould for avoiding air spaces is the T/C mould made by Lyman. The air seems to rise into the sprue. I cut these off with a side cutters - you can leave the sprue on and center it up, but this is a preference.

The other thing I started doing was to enlarge the sprue cutter holes. This allows for a fast pour at low heat. For example, when I had to have the furnace on a five or seven before, I now have it set on three and it casts very nicely with no wrinkles or air space - and the mould will take the lead as fast as I can pour it, further reducing the chances of a bad pour or of voids.

What kind of tricks do you use?

Thanks,

Josh

StrawHat
12-13-2010, 08:16 AM
I cast round ball with Lyman, Lee and other molds. I prefer to cast hotter than you do. frosting doesn't bother me and seems to allow a more consistant weight. Enlarging the sprue hole is a good idea (with many molds actually). I prefer the Lee type of mold with a tangential sprue cut, leaving no significant sprue on the casting. There is a protype six cavity round ball mold being tested, I am waiting for the production version.

rhbrink
12-13-2010, 10:07 AM
I don't know that I have ever "frosted" a pure lead round ball at any temp are you using some sort of alloy?

45-70 Chevroner
12-13-2010, 10:46 AM
rhbrink: you beat me to it. Ditto! Love those Lee round ball molds though no sprue bump.

Josh are you sure you were getting voids (air spaces) in the balls. Try cutting some in half. I have cut a number of RB's in half and have never found any voids. If my RB's look good on the out side ie. no wrinkles or exterior voids I shoot all of them. I have tried weighing them and I can't see any difference when shooting those that I've weighed and those I have not weighed.

Alan
12-13-2010, 11:59 AM
A lot of the tips depend on which mould and alloy you are using.

Some mould like to be right up against the nozzle, some like the lead to flow 1/2" to 1" into the sprue hole, some like to be filled from a ladle. Some will work well with a snug sprue plate, others will not fill out square bases unless it is rather loose.

I have a tendency to cast somewhat cooler w/ my aluminum blocks than I do w/ iron blocks. With iron, I don't worry about frosting, and as long as the sprue is not taking more than 5-6 seconds to harden I don't worry about it.

One thing I have learned is that it is far, FAR more productive to take your time and try for uniformity and nice fill-out of each cast than to try too much speed, an then have to cull 1/3 to 1/2 of the bullets later.

For 1-3 cavity moulds, forget the hardwood knocker for the sprue plate. Wear heavy leather gloves, and just twist the sprue plate open by hand. With some moulds, you can catch the bullets in that hand to drop them into the quenching bath or lay them on the folded towel you use to keep the soft bullets from being damaged. Gange moulds have to get hot before this works well.

StrawHat
12-14-2010, 07:37 AM
I don't know that I have ever "frosted" a pure lead round ball at any temp are you using some sort of alloy?

Brain fart, I tend to cast everything hot. No the pure lead balls just look pretty when they drop from the mold. It is the boolits that have that wonderful frosty appearence. Sorry for the confusion. Getting old is getting worrisome to me.

piwo
12-14-2010, 12:31 PM
I cast my pure lead @ 950 degrees. I get complete fill out, beautiful shiny product with minimal weight variances But that's just me..... :?